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DennisA (IL) 
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Location: Ridott IL.
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 Topic: HD5B Replacing Track
Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 1:12pm |
I was turning while backing up and the right side track popped off. Would like to know the best way to get the track back in place. While backing up and the right side track popped off. Would like to know the best way to get the track back in place. This dozer has the straight blade on the front which mounts on the rear axle. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you  http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t227/caallis/HD5B/0CA1D111-C5CF-46C5-B8E6  
Edited by DennisA (IL) - 23 Jun 2017 at 4:25pm
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Dennis
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CAL(KS)
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Location: Chapman, KS
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Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 2:38pm |
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back off the front idler. if you have a hydraulic blade you can lift the front of the dozer and work the track back on with a long heavy bar or piece of pipe. if not youll need to jack up that side so you can slide the track back on. you could also jack the rear up and clutch that side and use a comealong hooked to the track and pull it toward the front and onto the idler. is the track worn badly or just out of adjustment?
Edited by CAL(KS) - 23 Jun 2017 at 2:39pm
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Location: lansdale pa.
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Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 5:23pm |
I have the same configuration machine and have done that a few times. I hope you have a tractor or truck and a little help. Start by backing the adjuster all the way loose. Then what I would do is put a big block under the hitch in the rear and as tight as possible. then put a big block under the blade and lower it to raise the front of the dozer. take a come along and hook it to the lower side of the track that is off on the putside and pull it forward and over toward the left side to get it started back on. once you get it started back on on the bottom, back the dozer up and turn so the track goes back on, you will need to feather the left turning clutch. you may have to pull the dozer with another piece of equipment to help it move as it looks like it is headed down hill. you only have to have the track started back on a little bit on the rollers and idler and backing up will force it back on. in the future, the track usually comes off if it is going to while you are backing up. watch the track and if it starts to come off, stop, loosen and do the backing up trick to get it back on. if the tracks are pretty worn, make sure to keep it on the tight side. Good luck!
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 5:29pm |
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 5:30pm |
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the previous pic was one of my track throws. probably the worst as it came off the sprocket also. come along, long bar, pickup truck and a chain and it was back on in no time.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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DMiller
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Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 6:23pm |
Snaky chains, well worn idlers will get you to here. Have to learn the tattle tale markers of pops and tension addition to catch it before gets to here. I have had my own lessons from a well worn machine!! 
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DiyDave
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Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 6:25pm |
A come-a-long is your best friend, in this situation... 
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 6:39pm |
Large tanker bar (rock bar) - wood blocks - come along pair of vice grips ( to keep hook of come along from sliding off pad of track) if you can get rear of tractor just raised to get weight off track on that side it helps , raising front with down pressure - then blocking up tractor as it will not fall while working on it . I can't tell you how many times i had to put track back on machine and most times without backing off the adjuster as it was frozen and would not turn Once you get track on sprocket and onto upper side of idler - sometimes you can use drive force from rear sprocket to get track back on - power install track
Edited by Coke-in-MN - 23 Jun 2017 at 6:40pm
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 7:15pm |
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Thanks guys, I looked it up in the service manual and it says to find the master pin and remove it. I was not looking forward to removing a pin which is rusted in place.
I will need to jack it up as the track is under the arm of the blade.
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Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
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DMiller
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Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 10:06pm |
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I made up two short chains that just reach across the shoes out of 3/8" link chain and pin on 3/8 hooks, hang said chain across a shoe as a connection point so can attach a come along, a bar anything that needs to connect outside the rails. As far as breaking the rail or removing the master just collapse your track tensioner for added room of maneuvering. Work the sprocket first make sure the rail is fully situated to the sprocket and under the bottom rollers, set blocks, timbers whatever you can find to keep the blade high and use it far additional jack. Get the whole side of the tractor off the ground if possible and use the machine to help drag the rail chain back into place.
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DMiller
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Posted: 23 Jun 2017 at 10:15pm |
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 25 Jun 2017 at 9:29am |
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Well I got the track back on the sprocket, upper idler and 2 out of the 4 lower wheels. I can't get the track under the 2 front lower wheels and not even close to the front tensioner. The rails up as grainiest the tensioner but I don't have enough track to get the rails on the out side of the tensioner let alone get the track over the center rib of the tensioner. I will need to get a 2-1/2" wrench to turn the adjuster bolt and may need to use heat to get it freed up. Will presoak with Kroil and clean the threads.
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Dozer
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Posted: 25 Jun 2017 at 5:28pm |
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Harbor freight has a 44 inch pipe wrench that works as a track wrench. It is available in iron or aluminum. Don't forget to back off the adjuster lock nut.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 25 Jun 2017 at 7:36pm |
After you heat the bolt, let it cool, to about 250ºF, then take a bees wax candle to the threads, near the nut, like you would hold solder, iff'n you were solderin copper pipe. THe wax sometimes penetrates the threads, better than any penetrating oil...
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 10:52am |
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Best not to remove the master pin and split track as on old track it can lead to more problems - if you read the book further it will tell you to REPLACE the master pin with a new one each time it's removed .
backing off the adjuster works - you can also try a come along and tension (pull) front idler back to gain some more clearance
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 11:13pm |
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Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 10:19am |
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One of the reasons the track popped off is that the two front wheels are totally flat with out any lip on the sides.
Where do you guys get replacement parts for these dozers?
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Dennis
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CAL(KS)
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Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 11:17am |
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salvage or someone on here.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 12:29pm |
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How much time you got? You can build the center up with weld.Easiest with idler removed.
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DMiller
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Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 5:05pm |
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Was no lip to the sides of the idlers, just a rib down the center. The rib guides the rail segments while the rollers support the tractor. Undoubtedly the rails are snaky and can twist as the links roll over the idler, that allows a loose rail to climb over and off the idler. My 7G has that issue with the rails on it, pin to bushing wear has reached the point the links can wrench sideways to one another or snake.
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Dozer
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 4:54am |
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I have seen "truck wheel's" on eBay several times. You might have to pay $100 each and shipping isn't cheap these days. If you own any crawler you will have to replace track parts from time to time.
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DMiller
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 7:00am |
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Undercarriage may seem to last forever but that is the lead in to issues as it does wear. Snaky pins/bushings, worn thru bushings, track shoes worn slick or welded upon until brittle cracking occurs, all the rollers and idlers wear or bearings/bushings internally fail as will seals holding the lube within them. At some point the machine needs to come down for a undercarriage inspect and replace/repair.
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 9:04am |
 DMiller wrote:
Undercarriage may seem to last forever but that is the lead in to issues as it does wear. Snaky pins/bushings, worn thru bushings, track shoes worn slick or welded upon until brittle cracking occurs, all the rollers and idlers wear or bearings/bushings internally fail as will seals holding the lube within them. At some point the machine needs to come down for a undercarriage inspect and replace/repair. |
I agree with maintaining all equipment and taking it out of service to make repairs. May mindset is that if I'm putting the time in to repair any equipment I want to use new parts if I can get them. Since I'm new to the heavy construction equipment I don't know were to even start looking for replacement parts.
Edited by DennisA (IL) - 29 Jun 2017 at 9:05am
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Dennis
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 10:07am |
For a HD5 - new parts are made out of UNOBTANIUM - you use what you can find - with luck it might be something that is still good condition, has a second life after repair , has been rebuilt correctly , needs work but not as much as what the one you now have needs . Have kept 4 HD5 machines running for years but now down to 1 ad it's semi-retired as it's owner is retired - or is that tired of working for others and having them want you do the impossible but not charge them for your time or machine wear .
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 30 Jun 2017 at 6:19pm |
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Well I was able to push her on a lot of dirt today. But when I starting to dig out a stump the right track popped off again. This time I was able to stop before the rail came completely off the idler, The rail just popped over the center ridge of the idler.
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Dennis
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 30 Jun 2017 at 7:42pm |
Somewhere on here I posted a picture of the track gauge - it also has measurements for the rollers and front idler - if the wear on it is such that the track is not riding within the raised portion or if wear has allowed it to act like a ramp to derail track the problem will continue . Lower rollers also need edge to keep track straight , tension on track is also important - about 1" of sag in track between support roller and front idler - If track is snaky but not worn on both sides of bushing - turning them will give you some life - finding track or pins and bushings to rebuild yours is a tough deal finding them . HD5 , HD6 track and some IH track all have same pitch and spacing- unsure on IH track for pad mounting though .
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 01 Jul 2017 at 12:28am |
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I had a similar situation with my hd5b dozer. Eventually I found the track frame was moving due to an outboard bearing going bad and allowing the track frame to move..stand to the side of the dozer and lower the blade to raise the front of the dozer and watch the rear pivot at the sprocket and see if it moves other than turning on the bearing. Mine shifted and revealed a bad bearing. Did it at almost full down on the blade. Check the front idler side shims also to see if it is allows to move and cock too much.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 01 Jul 2017 at 11:04am |
Bad bearing on truck frame will do that - as will bad -bearings in the idler . On my 5B the rear bearing was good - the axle was broken at point it entered the bearing on the truck frame . I bought that machine in that condition - along with locked engine which turned out to be broken lobe on the blower as someone plugged the drain hole on the blower and water froze cracking the lobe
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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