| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
Rainwood 
Bronze Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2015
Location: Washington
Points: 16
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: HD5 B right side brake and steering
Posted: 19 Sep 2015 at 11:20pm |
Hi all ,
I have inherited a HD5 B dozer , it has been sitting a few years but got it resurrected a couple of weeks ago.
Im told it used to steer to the right and now it doesnt , right break pedal went to the floor in use today. Any normal culprits for this problem?
Where is a good place to learn about this turn and brake system?
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
Dozer
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Aug 2011
Location: SW New York
Points: 689
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 10:24am |
|
The brake band adjuster is under
Remove the brake band adjuster cover located beneath the fuel tank by removing the (2) 3/8 bolts and tighten the brake band.
Use the search option Type steering clutches. There are many postings about steering clutches
|
|
Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Afton MN
Points: 41947
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 11:04am |
there is a cover over the adjuster that can be removed to turn the adjuster - but in this case remove the full cover (3/8 bolts) and check the action of lever and the parts . I had the threads strip out of the adjuster so had to find another one - also replaced the threaded shaft as well as the nut to get it all to work . Another problem is if case has got water in it from the drain hole being blocked - as hole is only 3/4 pipe plug hole in bottom of case things get inside and plug that hole fast. Make sure drain is open .
|
|
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
|
|
Rainwood
Bronze Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2015
Location: Washington
Points: 16
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 11:36pm |
|
Thank you , i will try this
|
|
Rainwood
Bronze Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2015
Location: Washington
Points: 16
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 03 Oct 2015 at 10:43pm |
I didn't have any luck with the adjuster. It didn't seem to have any resistance and made no difference, so I took that inspection plate loose today. The threaded shaft had come out of the adjuster.
I thought it had stripped out , but I was able to line it back up and get the adjuster to thread back on the threaded shaft.
According to the operators manual PDF on this site, I am supposed to have 1.75" -2" of free play, I could only get 1" and when I hit the pedal the threaded shaft popped back out. No damage. I used an inspection camera to look a the adjuster too. Seems fine too.
I tightened it all the way down and backed off two clicks on the adjuster. The dozer will move back and forth , but I can tell its dragging and will kill the engine to apply the brake. I'm afraid to loosen it up any more for fear of stripping it
Im guessing the brake band is worn down and shortening the circumference, though it seems to have about 1/4 of brake material still.
My questions are these :
1. Is there any adjustment in the pedal mechanism that may allow the the threaded shaft to come back further?
2. can you still get brake bands for an HD5 and is it difficult to replace?
|
|
Dozer
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Aug 2011
Location: SW New York
Points: 689
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 6:20am |
|
I assume that you have adjusted the yoke on the brake pedal and that you do not have enough rod length to engage the thread on the brake band.
If the band were badly worn you will have a long amount of thread at the brake band adjuster, so you have another problem. You can see the band friction material with your inspection camera. The lining is about 1/4" thick when new.
Check that the bellcrank that operates the band is operating correctly.
The band can be relined by any shop that relines brakes and clutches. General Gear has relined bands.
To replace the complete brake band you must remove the fuel tank and steering clutch. The top section of brake band with the adjuster can be removed without removing the steering clutch.
|
|
gemdozer
Orange Level
Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Points: 1011
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 12:48pm |
|
You should have 1"- 3" fre play on top stering cluch lever and 1 3/4" free play on brake pedal and you could desajusted your brake band and loose the jam nut brake band support screw under housing and turn the screw into housing until the bottom of the brake band is against the brake drum then back the support screw out 1/2 turn to allow clearance between the brake band and the drum and readjusted your brake band
|
|
dadsdozerhd5b
Orange Level
Joined: 27 Sep 2009
Location: lansdale pa.
Points: 535
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 6:03pm |
|
HOW MUCH THREAD ENGAGEMENT DO YOU GET WHEN RETHREADING THE ADJUSTER BACK ON? IT SOUNDS LIKE EVEN THOUGH IT LOOKS GOOD THAT ONE OR BOTH THREADS ON THE ADJUSTER ARE WORN DOWN TO ALLOW IT TO COME BACK APART. NEW/RELINED BRAKE BANDS ARE AVAILABLE AS STATED. I THOUGHT YOU COULD CHANGE THE BRAKE BAND WITHOUT REMOVING THE STEERING CLUTCH. THE FUEL TANK DOES NEED TO COME OFF WHICH IS NOT BIG DEAL. ARE THE STEERING CLUTCHES FREE? BE SURE THE BOOTS ARE GOOD WHERE THE BRAKE RODS COME THROUGH THE REAR HOUSING AS MICE LOVE TO GET INTO THE CENTER OF THE CLUTCH, MAKE A HOME AND THEIR PEE SEIZES THE CLUTCHES AND ARE THEN VERY HARD TO GET OUT. I MADE UP STEEL BOOTS TO STOP THEM FROM CHEWING THROUGH THE RUBBER.
|
|
HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
|
|
Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Afton MN
Points: 41947
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 9:06pm |
OOPS - I noticed you said when applying brake it drags the engine down - The STEERING CLUTCH must be in the position to release the clutch when brake is applied - you pull the steering clutch lever - then apply the brake . You should be able to pull both clutch levers and stop the movement of the machine - if not then you have a frozen clutch . Also on the bottom of machine is a bolt which goes through clutch housing and supports the brake band on the bottom so it does not drag onto clutch / brake drum .
|
|
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
|
|
Rainwood
Bronze Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2015
Location: Washington
Points: 16
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 9:25pm |
thanks dozer I have not adjusted the yoke on the brake pedal . I did pull the cotter key and try to pull the shouldered pin. It is too long to come out. It is interfered with by the foot well wall. I looked at the lining , it was pretty close to 1/4"
|
|
Rainwood
Bronze Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2015
Location: Washington
Points: 16
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 9:34pm |
|
Thanks gemdozer, is this adjustment on the underside of the dozer?
|
|
Rainwood
Bronze Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2015
Location: Washington
Points: 16
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 9:45pm |
I think this answers my question to Gemdozer , sorry. Is this adjustment under a cover like the one on top?
The steering clutches are an issue as well. The left one will gradually shift the direction . the right is useless. The right probably has 7-8" of play , the left has no play. So Im going to have to mess with it . I figured that was my next task after I was able to safely stop this thing. Lots of hills here.
I do use the levers in conjunction with the brake pedal, well until the right brake did its thing.
Is this one of those things where these have to be proper to get the brakes right? I didn't think they were the same system? I will try the double lever thing while moving |
|
Rainwood
Bronze Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2015
Location: Washington
Points: 16
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 9:55pm |
I think it was 10-12 full turns to get to where I felt it was fully tightened on the drum.
The inspection camera definitely made aware the adjuster and mechanism wasn't brand new. The threads could benefit from a pass or two with a tap and die no doubt . I may try to buy some.
it seems that I am only a thread or two into the adjuster when I have roughly an inch on the pedal free play. Boots are still intact , but Im in western Washington were it rains a lot . Humidity could have accomplished the same thing and then i have plenty of mice too.
|
|
Dozer
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Aug 2011
Location: SW New York
Points: 689
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Oct 2015 at 8:01am |
|
You should be making the pedal adjuster rod longer to get more thread engagement at the brake band adjuster. If the brake band support bolt is not supporting the brake band then the weight of the band will cause the brakes to drag. The 1/2-13 bolt is under the machine. I would remove the bolt noting the position of the lock nut. Clean and grease the bolt and re install and adjust.
|
|
gemdozer
Orange Level
Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Points: 1011
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Oct 2015 at 11:53am |
|
Yes the support bolt is under the stering cluch housing
|
|
