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HD11 Not Moving ISSUE |
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jchance
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jan 2014 Location: Brisbane Points: 46 |
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Posted: 25 Jan 2016 at 9:27am |
Hi,
I have a HD11E serial 8321 After some pushing i noticed it started to not push as hard, so i decided to head back to the shed so if it had any issues it can be fixed at the shed rather than in the middle of a paddock. I made it back to the shed just in time as when i arrived it lost forward and back motion. Im wondering if its just the clutch/transmission or has anyone had this happen to them ? I had to tighten the clutch with a long pry bar, to make it back so i assume its clutch only. Another issue that happened a while ago was that the de revving pedal had lost its spring so i had to jerry rig a bungee strap to give it back its spring, how would i fix this ? I am located in Australia, any help would be appreciated. See some images below of the unit. Edited by jchance - 25 Jan 2016 at 9:37am |
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jchance
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jan 2014 Location: Brisbane Points: 46 |
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jchance
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jan 2014 Location: Brisbane Points: 46 |
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gemdozer
Orange Level Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Points: 942 |
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Do you have a wet or dry master cluch and removd the floor plate and check the drive shaft is turning when you say he is't moving
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jchance
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jan 2014 Location: Brisbane Points: 46 |
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yep the drive shaft is spinning, i think its a dry clutch
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gemdozer
Orange Level Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Points: 942 |
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If your hd11 drive shaft is spenning maybe the stering cluchs need a adjustement
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jchance
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jan 2014 Location: Brisbane Points: 46 |
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how is this done ?
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3746 |
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very odd to have both steering clutches out. i think you have something else going on
According to parts book you should have oil clutch unless special ordered with dry clutch ENGINE CLUTCH AND HOUSING (Oil Clutch) USAGE: Models HD11B, E,ES,S, F. Standard on tractors serial No. 6911 and up ENGINE CLUTCH AND HOUSING (Dry Clutch) USAGE: Model HD11B,E,ES,S,F tractors prior to serial No. 10001. Standard on units prior to serial No. 6911; optional thereafter. Edited by CAL(KS) - 26 Jan 2016 at 3:47pm |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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jchance
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jan 2014 Location: Brisbane Points: 46 |
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yeah im thinking it has anything to do with steering clutches
Edited by jchance - 26 Jan 2016 at 3:32pm |
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gemdozer
Orange Level Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Points: 942 |
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The stering cluch linkage is by loosen the jam nut of the adjustable yoke at the front end of the stering cluch control rod, extending from the stering lever to the control rod lever of the stering cluch theowout shaft and you should have 3 inchs free travel at top lever
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3746 |
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your tractor is 8321
HD11E 41-link standard track, wrap-around radiator guard, mechanical drive, naturally-aspirated diesel engine 10000 engine (Tr.#6427 thru #10000) with mechanical machine slippage is only possible in engine clutch or steering clutch. and since it would be seriously strange to have two steering clutches out at once unless you have oil leaking into BOTH sides, i would still suspect engine clutch. im betting engine clutch since you said you had to adjust. put blade in ground and try to push and see if drive shaft turns. it will spin with tractor in neutral.
Edited by CAL(KS) - 26 Jan 2016 at 4:01pm |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3746 |
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im guessing item 14 (spring) on your decellerator issue
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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donoman
Silver Level Joined: 18 Feb 2015 Location: New Zealand Points: 117 |
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The transmission screen housing is visible in the photo,you would have a wet backend and an oil clutch, there should be a dip stick on the right hand side coming out of the clutch housing , the clutch is adjusted by removing the top inspection plate, spin the engine by just touching the starter till the lock plate comes around slacking the 2 lock bolts and slide the lock plate out of the grove and with a big screwdriver or pry bar lever the inner clutch assembly around till the pull on the clutch lever at the bottom of the handle is 40LBS, lock the bolts up. Check the clutch pump is operating,loosing the outlet pipe and spin engine to see if oil is flowing. they are very good clutches as long as they have oil, adjust when it takes less than 30 LBS to pull overcentre.
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gemdozer
Orange Level Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Points: 942 |
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If you have a wet cluch maybe your cluch oil tank is missing oil and this tank is connect under the cluch housing near the big spring and you could check the level by the dipstick
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jchance
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jan 2014 Location: Brisbane Points: 46 |
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thanks everyone,
does anyone have a manual handy that has all the torque settings etc
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jchance
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jan 2014 Location: Brisbane Points: 46 |
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I pulled the clutch out doesn't appear to be getting oil to the clutch.
I pulled the clutch pump off, that was a task getting the bolt off next to the crankcase, if anyone has a tip on getting this back on I would be very grateful. Pump looks fine does anyone have an ideas on what the issue may be? |
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donoman
Silver Level Joined: 18 Feb 2015 Location: New Zealand Points: 117 |
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On my HD6E I have bent spanners with the gas torch in a half moon shape to get in behind the steering pump, check the screen on the inlet side and check the hose, the inside rubber lining may have collapsed, did you loosen the outlet pipe on the pump to see if oil was flowing?
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 29697 |
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On my 7G I end up rolling the hardnose to gain access room and that is minimal at best to access that same steering pump donoman, what a hellish place to hang those pumps! I ended up making a wrench from a cheapo open end t tighten the back bolt, one flat at a time, cut the wrench to use just the end then welded to a nut then put a piece of cold roll bent 90 thru the nut with washer and cotter pin to both sides, still a PITA!! I have had suction lines look great, even a BRAND NEW unit that would suck air like a screen but never leak, what a pain to diagnose. Try loading the clutch pump with white lithium grease, as that will dissipate rapidly in the system, if pulls a prime and loses it then is sucking air, somewhere. I even had issues with the shaft seal on a brake supply hydraulic pump with the bad hoses.
Edited by DMiller - 06 Feb 2016 at 4:26pm |
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jchance
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jan 2014 Location: Brisbane Points: 46 |
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Any ideas on where to source parts in Australia for a hd11 ?
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Steve allis dozer
Silver Level Access Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Location: Australia Points: 232 |
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allis spares and repairs Victoria 03 9719 7415
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