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ddlong 
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Joined: 22 Jul 2012
Location: Thompson IA
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 Topic: Hauling CA
Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 12:26pm |
Purchasing a CA in KS and need to know what is required to not get pulled over traveling back home to IA. Besides making sure everything gets back without incident!
Borrowing a car trailer and pulling it with my 99 4WD 1/2 ton Suburban.
Never hauled anything before so thought I would get some experienced advice.
Don
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Larry in NC
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 12:33pm |
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That's a long trip for your first haul. Have you got a brake controller on your Suburban to operate the trailer brakes? As far as the tractor, just a four point tie down, front and rear, with good binder straps or chains.
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jaybmiller
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Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 12:36pm |
Well it's not as heavy as a big car..but... I'd have 4 chains + binders, one per corner. Be sure tires hold air !!! One went 'flatish' on me,so chain/binder got loose. Clean it if possible..no loose dirt,stones, tree branches... Put it in the 'sweet spot' so enough tongue weight but not too much.
Other will know more....I haven't hauled anything for 5 years..
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 12:39pm |
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You shouldn’t have any problems with DOT. Law is 1 chain per corner. So two chains on front two on back. I always crossed the chains. By this I mean attach chain to right side of tractor to the left side of trailer. Use a binder to keep chains tight. Load so rear axle of tractor is above axle of trailer with front of tractor facing the front of trailer. Just be smart and start braking early. Be safe and have a great trip!
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Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
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PaulB
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 12:45pm |
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As a CA weighs under 10,000 pounds DOT will not require a 4 point tie down on a CA. 1 chain going forward and another rearward will keep you out of trouble. Around the tractor in the middle of the chain with each at a corner of the trailer. As for binders on 1 each chain will meet DOT requirements. As I was taught many years ago; Put the binder on the right side. If you have them on the left and need to stop on the road and tighten them down again, you'll be standing out in traffic. much safer to to be working on the right side of the truck/trailer when stopped along the highway.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
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ddlong
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 1:41pm |
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Ratchet binder or lever?
No trailer brakes.
Thank you for the help!
Don
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 2:18pm |
Without trailer brakes be VERY VERY CAREFUL and allow plenty of space between you and the idiot in front of you. You don't want the trailer and tractor passing the Suburban. I refuse to haul a tractor or car on a trailer w/o brakes, they greatly decrease your stopping distance not to mention if you were to lose brakes on the tow vehicle those trailer brakes might just save your butt. BTDT. As Larry said that is a long haul for your first time. Don't try to go too fast but if the trailer starts swaying accelerate out of it and then slow down. Make sure the trailer wheel bearings and tires are in good shape and take a spare tire, jack and lug wrench. I have always used lever binders but some inspectors prefer the ratchet binders. If I buy new ones they will be the ratchet type.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Dusty MI
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 2:21pm |
I also haul our car on our trailer. The easiest way to tie a car down is to lasso the wheels. So that is also what I do hauling my tractors. But instead of using chains I use binding straps. They are rather inexpensive and you don't have to find a spot to hook to on the tractor.
Dusty
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 2:56pm |
I've towed open and closed trailers with cars and tractors around New England for years. I'm no expert, but am happy to share my opinions!
I agree with using one chain (and binder) per corner. I wouldn't put a chain around the middle of the tractor - could put strain on parts not designed to take a heavy, sudden shock load.
I would NOT run a rig without trailer brakes and a controller in the tow vehicle. Can it be done? Sure. But you'll be in a heap of hurt if you need to stop quickly and that trailer starts to come around the tow vehicle....with no place to go and no time to do it in.
Edited by Dave(inMA) - 02 Aug 2020 at 2:58pm
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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TomC
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 3:00pm |
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I use regular car tie downs on my CA & 2020d when I haul them and I haul one of them at least once a week. Get the weight over the axles of the trailer not all the way forward. 4 straps at least. The two in the front pulling forward, the 2 in the back pulling backwards, do NOT run a strap over sheet metal go through front wheel slots & through the draw bar or hitch on the back. You can nail 2x4s in front & along side the front tires & in front of & in back of the rear tires. I generally use 6 straps total & NOT the cheap red ,yellow or blue ratchet straps I'm talking over the road flat bed straps. Be sure the tires on the trailer are real honest to god 10 or 12 ply tires not car tires someone has put on there,be sure the bearings have been packed with grease. Its summer time and those bearings & tires are going to get HOT.
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TomC
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 3:27pm |
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I just looked at your second post,, no brakes??? Don't do it your asking for big trouble. That CA with ballast & if equipped with weights or an implement could easily weight over 5500 lbs.just sitting there,that same 5500 lbs running along at 70 mph is a whole new ballgame. After 45 years of trucking I have seen way to many times how that ends up
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 4:18pm |
I say you need brakes on every axle just from the hauling I've done over the years. The distance you are talking isn't just a couple miles down the road at home where you might creep along. Also, you better check the laws for at least the state the trailer and your vehicle are registered in regarding trailer brakes. There is at least this info I found in a quick search, that would cause me concern legally, if something should go wrong on the trip.
"Indiana Trailer Brake Laws A trailer or semitrailer that weighs at least 3,000 lbs. must be equipped with brakes adequate to control the movement of and to stop and to hold the towing vehicle and trailer or semitrailer. These brakes must be designed so that the driver of the towing vehicle can apply the brakes from the towing vehicle itself and adequately stop both the towing vehicle and the trailer or semitrailer." And while two chains or straps might cover the law, one on each corner is cheap insurance and will get less scrutiny if you do get checked. It will help as well if all your chains or straps aren't DOT approved or grade 70, or better, in the case of chains and hooks. Ratchet binders are better and safer than over center binders. JMHO
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Boss Man
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 4:32pm |
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Some states have band the over center binders. Any trailer with 2 or more axles must have operating brakes on minimum of 1 axle. Any single axle trailer with 8 lugs must have trailer brakes.
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 5:15pm |
"Required Equipment If your trailer and load weighs more than 3,000 pounds
(1-1/2 tons), it must have brakes on all axles. They can be
self-actuating if the combination is less than 10,001 pounds
combined GVWR, or brakes you can apply from the towing
vehicle. On certain combinations of over 10,001 pounds
combined GVWR, self-actuating surge brakes are allowed
depending on the GVWR of the towed unit.
Drawbar and Chain:
When towing another vehicle or trailer, the drawbar must
be connected to prevent side sway. Safety chains must also
be used to connect the trailer to the towing vehicle.They must
be strong enough to hold the load in case the hitch breaks."
Edited by Jim.ME - 02 Aug 2020 at 5:17pm
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Scott B
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 5:27pm |
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Lots of direction in the tie downs, brakes, etc. I’ve hauled my B’s and a CA ( all wo ballast, weights, etc. wo brakes on my car trailer and with my f150. Guessing Kansas to Iowa will be on I-35, so relatively flat, good highway. I’d run around 60 and let em pass you. That said, I now run an f250 w trailers that have brakes.
If your CA is narrow front, you’ll want some ramps for the middle of the trailer.
Where in KS and IA?
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Scott B
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 5:29pm |
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Lots of direction in the tie downs, brakes, etc. I’ve hauled my B’s and a CA ( all wo ballast, weights, etc.) wo brakes on my car trailer and with my f150. Guessing Kansas to Iowa will be on I-35, so relatively flat, good highway. I’d run around 60 and let em pass you. That said, I now run an f250 w trailers that have brakes.
If your CA is narrow front, you’ll want some ramps for the middle of the trailer.
Where in KS and IA?
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D17 Series 1
Allis B- 1939
Allis B- 1945
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 5:34pm |
Yikes NO BRAKES... pass on that trailer ,fast !!! I hauled a caddy, locally and it wasn't fun. IDIOT drivers...WHY the guy changed lanes then STOPPED at the yellow was 'wonderful'. He was the luckiest S-O-B though, as I didn't get out of my truck.....I came close though...
ANY trailer over 2990# here in Ontario MUST have working brakes..... ..THAT answers why so many dealers have singles and tandems !!! rated for 2990#, so THEY don't have to add brakes and battery backup features !!! Go figure.. a trailer with 2 - 3500# axles and it's legally rated for 2990# ! Sorry for the rant but up here FINDING what's LEGAL for trailers is a nightmare.....
You 'might' be able to rent a Uhaul, one way but CHECK first ! Up here they ask what you're hauling...say a tractor and NO they won't rent, say 'a67 mustang ' and it's 'yes sir..do you want fries with that'..... sigh....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
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allisbred
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 7:56pm |
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Uhual has dual axle trailers you can rent for a car or garden equipment that has brakes built in the tongue and does not require a brake box. I think you need to look at the weight close as I believe you will be around 3000k without the trailer. I would do the 4 point tie as it is safer for you with less experience hauling that load.
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ac fleet
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 8:31pm |
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Make sure the trailer gvw is under 10,000 --otherwise hope you have a cdl in your pocket ( check your laws there,--Here I have to have to have cdl to use my dump trailer behind my Explorer since trailer is rated 16,000 pounds)---other than that go for it! ---- I have done crazier chit and never killed anybody or wrecked anything! --- Take your time get the feel of it then find your comfy speed and keep it there. chain it down good and they wont bother you!
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john(MI)
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Posted: 02 Aug 2020 at 9:37pm |
Call ahead and make sure the tire ballast has been removed. You definitely don't need the extra weight to pull or to stop.
Angle your front chain toward the rear to the front of the tractor and your rear chain toward the front, to the rear of the tractor..
If you have lever binders, I carry a 3' piece of chain link fence post to snap the binder.
Drive 5 to 10 miles after loading and then stop to take a look at your chains to make sure they are still tight.
I usually take a clevis to hook to the drawbar and run the rear chain thru it.
When you connect the chains on the trailer, if the trailer has stake pockets. Drop the chain down thru and then bring it back up the outside and hook it on the pocket.
I always leave the tractor in reverse.
I carry a small jack stand to put under the rear of the trailer. It holds it up when loading.
Take a spare tire, 4 way lug wrench, and utility jack.
If it's a narrow front you don't really need a third ramp. Drive up to the trailer at a slight angle. Drive the front tires up the far side ramp and then brake and swing the tractor around to run the rear tires up the ramps.
I usually run 65 - 70 but then, I always have brakes.
Try to level the trailer. Not to much weight or too little weight on the tongue.
DON'T forget the trailer is behind you and pull over in front of someone!
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 04 Aug 2020 at 10:10am |
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Just make sure that all of your lights and brakes work. Iowa requires all trailers with 3000 lbs rating and up to have working brakes on all road wheels. That said, I seriously doubt the DOT will look at you twice on the road.
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