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badtrack 
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 Topic: H3 149 engine or 160 ?
Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 10:49am |
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I'm trying to breath some new life into a 1964 h3. The engine uses about a quart of oil per gallon of gas and misses on # 2&3 cylinder s when warm.the engine block has #s AM5363 and H1382R and B240. The bell housing is 7840. My manual seems to tell me the engine is a 149.??
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PaulB
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Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 10:53am |
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Might just be the same as D15s. the early ones had the 149 and then later switched to the 160.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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badtrack
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Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 12:05pm |
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Orangeman referred to a tid78886 but I can't figure out how to get to that reference. It may help on what I need for a engine repair kit before I tear the engine down. Seems like 160 kits are much more expensive. Anyone know more information on this ?
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orangeman
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Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 12:37pm |
Badtrack - Go to search function and type in Orangeman or Old School Recovery lots of info there which might be of use.
More questions let us know.
Orangeman
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DrAllis
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Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 3:21pm |
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Oil bath air cleaner should be a G-149. Dry type air cleaner is a G-160.
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badtrack
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Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 6:28pm |
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Thanks Orangeman & DrAllis. I do have a oil bath air cleaner but I did see a picture of a 160 block rebuild on a OldschoolRecovery post that had a block # of AM5363 like mine. I still have not figured out what that and H1382R or B240 numbers on the block refer to. I still hope I have a 149 cid. block. Thanks again for sharing your experiences.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 6:39pm |
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The serial number of the engine should be stamped behind the carb and carb air hose. It will start with 149- XXXXXX or 160- XXXXXX. If there are no stamped numbers (not a casting number) it has had a block replaced at some time, hence, no serial number.
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badtrack
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Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 4:30pm |
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Thanks DrAllis. Yes I must have a rebuilt. The number behind the carb air hose is the H-1382-R. Like most of this project I'll find more as I get it apart unless someone can track that rebuild number. Thanks again Badtrack
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DrAllis
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Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 8:17pm |
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If those characters are stamped with a hammer driven stamp, that must be the engine s/n, which is a different format than a farm tractor. The "H" would indicate an H-3, the 1382 would indicate the s/n and the "R" must be the gasoline fuel. I'd still say it's a G-149 with an oil bath air cleaner.
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jughead
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Posted: 05 Apr 2016 at 10:12am |
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hope i am not hy-jacking number on my h 3 is 3 2160 R which block would it be please does have oil bath
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orangeman
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Posted: 05 Apr 2016 at 3:33pm |
Badtrack- Dr. Allis has given excellent information on deciphering what block you have.
Rebuild kits for G149 blocks are reasonable cost effective. If consuming a quart of oil recommend time to open and begin using a micrometer for measurements.
Wear limits for both engines see the H3 service manual.
HTH's - Orangeman
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badtrack
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Posted: 06 Apr 2016 at 8:25am |
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Thanks for all the great info. Without doing compression test or air leak test I'm thinking bad rings when it still runs "OK" cold and fowls # 2 & 3 when warm. The previous operator said it run very hot. Little wonder with a leaking radiator and bad water pump! In any case I'll need to do a rework on the poor thing when I find the time
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DiyDave
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Posted: 06 Apr 2016 at 6:12pm |
 badtrack wrote:
Thanks for all the great info. Without doing compression test or air leak test I'm thinking bad rings when it still runs "OK" cold and fowls # 2 & 3 when warm. The previous operator said it run very hot. Little wonder with a leaking radiator and bad water pump! In any case I'll need to do a rework on the poor thing when I find the time |
Don't necessarily be worried about it running hot. On my D-10 nad 12, the WTSU is right beside the exhaust manifold, and is off by about 40 degrees, on both tractors. Buy yourself a infra red non contact thermometer, and you'll see what I mean... 
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badtrack
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Posted: 09 May 2016 at 1:40pm |
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Finally pulled the engine AM 5363 block. Pulled pistons and the block is a 160 cid with a oil bath air cleaner. The head AM5481 needs a repair kit. All I can find out tells me it's for a 149 cid. Is the same head used on both blocks?? What kit to order ?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 09 May 2016 at 5:53pm |
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Pretty easy now you have it torn apart. The 149 measures 3 1/2" inside the sleeves........The 160 measures 3 5/8".....don't even need a mike for that.
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 11 May 2016 at 9:39am |
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Tell'em Doc. Sometimes in trying to satisfy our curiosity we'll go overboard and complicate a simple examination. Then it takes the old men to settle them back down to earth. LOL Leon R Cmo
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badtrack
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Posted: 11 May 2016 at 2:55pm |
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Thanks Doc allis the AM5481 head has bad exhaust valves and # 2&3 seats look tuff. The head is at a machine shop to get estimated. The pistons look OK but the oil rings show wear. Thinking of new rings while I have it apart.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 11 May 2016 at 3:01pm |
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SO WHAT IS IT????? 149 OR 160 ??
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badtrack
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 1:28pm |
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DrAllis. The block is 160cu but it looks like the head (5481) may be used on some 149cu's as well as the gas 160 cu. My manual shows the same valve sets. I'll see what the machine shop as to say when they rework the exhaust valve seats. This crawler is starting to look like a Johnny Case one piece at a time.
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