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Grain cart gearbox
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8509 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Grain cart gearbox
    Posted: 02 Dec 2022 at 6:35pm
Anyone changed 130 degree gearbox on a J&M grain cart? How do you separate box shaft from angle auger? Assuming it is keyed shaft and just STUCK!! Not a good way to pry pull beat or whatever. Do I need to heat bottom of auger tube? TIA
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Dirt Farmer View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 Sep 2020
Location: Illinois
Points: 388 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dirt Farmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2022 at 8:50pm
Helped a neighbor do his last fall, since the gearbox was junk we torched the shaft off the box as close to the gearbox as possible then pulled the auger out through the top with a loader tractor then welded a piece scrap metal to the cut end for an anchor point to hit against using an air chisel to drive the shaft out. The shaft gets rusted in place due to the environment in the bottom of the cart.
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8509 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2022 at 9:49pm
Thanks Dirt Farmer. Thats likely where I'm going. Box has been getting water in it and shafts are floppy. It's possible bearings and seals could make it usable. Thought I'd take it apart and see how bad it was before just replacing it but that's not going well. Probably a  dumb idea.
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8509 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2022 at 8:59pm
So, I loosened top auger support and lit the cutting torch,heated the plug welds in tube that join inside splined chunk to tube till nice and red. Able to catch flighting leading edge with crowbar and pry against bottom plate. Rattled side of splined shaft with blunt air chisel and it started moving! YAAAAH!!! A few more repositioned prys/rattles and was out 2 inches. Removed gearbox bolts and pryed on box while rattling with air hammer and off it came! 3 cheers!!! Opened it up and all roller brgs are shot. The smaller drive gear has some chips missing from teeth. Pretty sure some of the rollers in the bottom of case got between them. Driven gear has rusted seal surface which I don't think will hold a seal. It's "that close" to being able to rebuild with new brgs and seals but  I'll just have to quash the urge and install the $1200 new one.
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22822 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 6:21am
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

So, I loosened top auger support and lit the cutting torch,heated the plug welds in tube that join inside splined chunk to tube till nice and red. Able to catch flighting leading edge with crowbar and pry against bottom plate. Rattled side of splined shaft with blunt air chisel and it started moving! YAAAAH!!! A few more repositioned prys/rattles and was out 2 inches. Removed gearbox bolts and pryed on box while rattling with air hammer and off it came! 3 cheers!!! Opened it up and all roller brgs are shot. The smaller drive gear has some chips missing from teeth. Pretty sure some of the rollers in the bottom of case got between them. Driven gear has rusted seal surface which I don't think will hold a seal. It's "that close" to being able to rebuild with new brgs and seals but  I'll just have to quash the urge and install the $1200 new one.

 Put a speedy sleeve on the seal surface and save $1150 Wink
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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