Grader hub removal M65

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   I need to remove the rear hubs on my M65 grader. What is the best way to do that? The DD should be the same. 

I want to get my brakes working again.

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d9gdon Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 12 Apr 2014 Location: Central Texas Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote d9gdon Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Grader hub removal M65 Posted: 30 Mar 2020 at 5:31pm
	I need to remove the rear hubs on my M65 grader. What is the best way to do that? The DD should be the same. I want to get my brakes working again.

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PaulB Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4400	Post Options Post Reply Quote PaulB Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Mar 2020 at 8:08pm
	I don't know about a M65, however our club's D grader has the brake mounted on the front of the transmission, not at the wheels. There is not a brake on the drive wheel spindles.
	If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY

Ian Beale Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 03 Oct 2011 Location: New South Wales Points: 932	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ian Beale Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Mar 2020 at 9:55pm
	If you have threaded holes on each side of the retaining nut you can make a heavy screw puller to suit. Tighten as much as you can - this likely won't pop the drum. Then give the end of the screw a flog or two with a EFBH - sledge of at least 14 pounds and better 28 if you can find one.

d9gdon Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 12 Apr 2014 Location: Central Texas Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote d9gdon Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Mar 2020 at 9:57pm
	Yes, that's the park brake on a M65. This one has drum brakes on both axles.

d9gdon Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 12 Apr 2014 Location: Central Texas Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote d9gdon Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Mar 2020 at 10:04pm
	Hello Ian, Now I know why I saw one where the hub had been heated with a torch at one time. I think I'll maybe round up a hydraulic pancake cylinder and make a puller bar. I ran a tap in those threaded holes today. I guess I'll have to back off on the brake adjuster first, which looks like a giant pain to try to get at. Got to get that 2 1/4" nut off before that.

d9gdon Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 12 Apr 2014 Location: Central Texas Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote d9gdon Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Apr 2020 at 8:33pm
	So, I built a puller and got my new brakes on... uploads/11511/IMG_3463.JPG Here's the old brakes... Here's the new brakes... Edited by d9gdon - 12 Apr 2020 at 8:39pm

d9gdon Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 12 Apr 2014 Location: Central Texas Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote d9gdon Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Apr 2020 at 8:51pm
	I had to tighten the puller nuts down to 600 lb/ft and then heat the hub a little with the torch on two of them and they popped loose with a loud boom. The other two weren't that tight. I found a new master cylinder at NAPA after finding the Bendix number on the old one for $130. I found the Bendix (now Raytheon) wheel cylinders from Carquest for $32 apiece. I built all new brake lines out of Cu/Ni brake lines from Carquest for about $50 total (7 pieces of 5' length). That was a learning experience but found out you can make templates out of baling wire for each line. I still screwed up several pieces, but I was a master at the end. I had to get new flexible brake lines made at Tubes N Hoses in Waco, TX who had the obsolete fittings in stock and made them while I waited for about 30 minutes. I love Mom and Pop shops. They only cost $35 apiece...I would have paid a lot more than that! I got my brake pads rebuilt at Brake and Clutch Supply in Lorena, TX for $40 each. He also did a fantastic job. Got to keep those Mom and Pop shops in business. Being able to stop when I want...Priceless!

PaulB Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4400	Post Options Post Reply Quote PaulB Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Apr 2020 at 6:24am
	For my old cars and trucks, I've always had better luck getting parts from Carquest. I was trying to get a throwout bearing for a CA from NAPA, and was told at one in that it would be back ordered, as none of the wharehouses had one. then the NAPA store closest to me said it wasn't even available, even after I told them what the Frederick store said. Stopped by the Carquest store and they had one on the shelf and 6 more at the Winchester wharehouse. Carqust has always had the brake parts in the wharehouse, for the 49/50 Dodge trucks I have. As you say NAPAs prices always seem higher.
	If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY