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wekracer 
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Joined: 13 Oct 2009
Location: Tebbetts, MO
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 Topic: Gleaner L2 unloading auger won’t shut off
Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 9:00pm |
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Tonight I was putting the last hopper of corn on the truck and the unloading auger wouldn’t Turn off. Ended up turning the key off. I would have preferred letting it cool down a bit. It’s a late model 82’ L2. Basically an L3. I’m guessing a sulenoid or a bad wire. Just wondering if anyone has any common suggestions.
It will be the most corn I’ve ever had on that truck. I had to climb on top and pull the tarp up and over.
Thanks for the help
Edited by wekracer - 04 Nov 2019 at 9:01pm
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wayne IA
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Joined: 22 Sep 2009
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Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 9:18pm |
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If it's like my R50, there is a relay under the arm rest/dash on your right that controls the unload clutch. I had to shut the engine off too to stop, but could restart then once the relay dropped out from power loss. To access the relay, if I remember correctly I had to remove the outside side access panel then you can reach it.
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PaulB
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Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 2:44am |
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Aren’t electronics wonderful🙀
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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wayne IA
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Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 3:56am |
Not so much as the function of an electronic as much it is a latch/un-latch relay that the unlatch portion failed. I didn't take my old relay apart to see how it's built, but fairly sure that it is just a standard latching relay since the switch contacts are only momentary to start and stop the auger. Some of the electrical components are a pain though to track down issues though, especially on intermittent problems. Using a 2 position maintained switch though should have been able to do the same job as the expensive relay. Jay Leno summed it up pretty well though one time talking about his Stanley steamer car compared to new modern vehicles. The statement made was: on the old steam powered cars it 2 minutes to diagnose the issue and 2 hours to repair since it had to cool off. On new cars it takes 2 hours to diagnose, and 2 minutes to fix (I am assuming that is if the part isn't strategically placed by an engineer in an impossible location).
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wekracer
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Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 5:53am |
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I not sure if mine has a relay or not. It has a hydraulic belt tensioner. I know the newer ones have a hydraulic motor on the unloaded. Mine is Hydraulic tension and hydraulic release. I’m thinking it’s a bad solenoid on the valve stack or an open in the wire. I can track it down. Just hoping someone had seen this beforehand and had a common place to start loony.
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Adam Stratton
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: SW MO
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Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 9:17pm |
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Been there done that. Wire to solenoid could be part of the problem. Check the safety switch on the auger itself. I know that if it isnt making contact the auger wont start, not sure about turning it off though. Can try to switch the wires to the on/off solenoids to confirm if its the wire or switch vs the solenoid. Good luck!
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wayne IA
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Posted: 05 Nov 2019 at 9:29pm |
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My R50 has an electric clutch and the above mentioned latching relay. If you locate the two coils on the valve bank and swap the wires to see if the "on" turns the auger off, then you know either the switch or wiring are to blame.
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coggonobrien
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Location: Eastern Iowa
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Posted: 06 Nov 2019 at 6:25am |
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I thought the L2's ran the big stick to engage the auger? Or did they switch at some point.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 06 Nov 2019 at 7:33am |
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It was optional, if you’re talking about the manual auger engagement lever.
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coggonobrien
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Posted: 06 Nov 2019 at 7:44am |
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I was, we need clarification out of the original poster to know what style he has.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 06 Nov 2019 at 8:11am |
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Judging by the context of what he has been saying about electricals at all, I am guessing he doesn’t have the manual one, but rather the electric/hydraulic engagement.
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bigal121892
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Posted: 06 Nov 2019 at 4:56pm |
 PaulB wrote:
Aren’t electronics wonderful🙀 |
This wouldn't be electronics, at best, it would be just simple relay logic.
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wekracer
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Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 8:44pm |
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Sorry it took so long but I’ve been pushing to get done with harvest. I wanted to update everyone who tried to help.
I have looked over the wiring diagram. The unloader is hydraulically actuated by a cylinder operated belt tensioner. There are no relays. It is operated electronically by a switch to a solenoid valve to engage and then disengage.
It has become very intermittent. I think it is the solenoid but it’s possible that it’s the wire. It did it a couple time afterwards and sometimes it worked after waiting a little while. A couple times I switched the engage/disengage wires and it worked then. But it probably took 2 minutes to climb out of the cab and switch wires. I think I’ll replace the solenoid and see how next year goes.
It’s ironic that it failed as I was topping off a truck. I can usually stuff 700 bushels of corn on that truck. It scaled at 731. Thank goodness it had a tarp or 30 bushels would have fallen off.
Thanks for all the help.
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Adam Stratton
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Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 10:00pm |
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Check your ground on the main solenoid next to the fuses, and take the screws that hold the switch in place in and out as well as the screws that hold the main switch panel down.im not sure how the switches get their ground but just doing the above seems to have fixed a similar issue for me. Also, try holding another function (reel up/down, header up/down) at the same time and see if that helps.
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