HD11

OK, first up is "4044210 BEARING, ball, front". The bearing that came out has the following info:

"New Departure"
"Z3304"

ID measured to 0.790" which is a hair over 20mm. Uh oh.....

OD measured to 2.049" which is a hair over 52mm. More uh oh....

Thickness measured to 0.590" which is 15mm. Hmmm....

This is looking more and more like a metric bearing. What are the chances of this on a 55 year old machine??

Andrew

On Edit: OK, looks like a 6304 bearing. I'm going to guess that the original bearings were open-frame since the ones in the fan hub and idler were open-frame. Also, the pump uses a cork sealing washer instead of an o-ring or seal.


Edited by Andrew_D - 25 Aug 2013 at 2:14pm

Finally, the seal: "4507084 FLINGER, water" and "4507091 SEAL ASSEMBLY"

No markings of any kind on either piece, so I'll have to go off of measurements.

I found a seal that seems to match the dimensions. It's from www.nbseal.com. It's their # TPSB3B-16.

Andrew


Edited by Andrew_D - 25 Aug 2013 at 3:50pm

Lazyts wrote: Go to www.minnpar.com- type in your part number preceded by a 7- Fiat Allis part numbers were changed to an 8 digit number starting with 7, so you need to add a 7 or 70 to old part numbers to "update" them.

Thanks Trevor. Now that I see that, I seem to remember reading that in the past...

Andrew

Andrew , if you are loading the machine onto a trailer up ramps at the back it's better to drive up rather than reverse up them also be sure to have the truck on level ground if possible,(if your not happy with how the trailer is sitting get the truck driver to move it rather than drive on a trailer that's not level) its good to have someone looking from a safe distance in front of the trailer to guide you on making sure both tracks are even as the machine goes up the ramps, if you find the machine is not going up the ramps straight its better to slowly reverse off and have another go rather than try and turn as you go up as to avoid touching the steering levers as you go up the ramps and over the balance point. make sure no one is standing to the side of the trailer when your loading ,If its wet and muddy I will wait until it s dry to load a machine as they will slide off very easily and them old machines don't have ROPS canopy's.
hope this helps regards steve

Well, after checking with 4 other places it looks like I'll have to order it from MinnPar. Any other good-to-have-on-hand items? I'd rather spend the extra $40 on something I might need than $4 on a small-order surcharge!

I tried the number for the impeller, but it comes up as a no-go on MinnPar's website. I'll have to check with them. The ceramic disc is not attached to the impeller. Parts book shows it as one unit, but are they supposed to be attached? Or seperate? Could this be reattached with something ????

Andrew


Edited by Andrew_D - 26 Aug 2013 at 8:37pm

Ian Beale wrote: Andrew,   AC 45 grader service manual says   "Ceramic insert - bonded to impeller (not serviced separately)"

OK. Does the AC45 have the same engine?

The parts book for the HD11 says "IMPELLER ASSEMBLY (includes ceramic insert)" so I wasn't 100% sure if it was 1 piece or 2.

I'm going to be phoning MinnPar today to see if they have, or can get the impeller, but it shows not available on their website. That's why I'm wondering about re-bonding it to the impeller.

Anyone have any ideas?

Andrew

Just a quick note on today's progress.

After fighting with getting the water pump out of this machine (4-5 hours), I didn't even bother to go to the HD11 parts machine I got as part of the deal. I had figured that a few bucks for some bearings and seals was worth the hassle and then I'd know where I was at.

Well, this morning I went over and had a look. As luck would have it, removing the water pump was a breeze on this machine. Being the ag version (HD11S), it didn't have the large hard nose with the cylinder brackets which meant easy side access. The pulley came off very easy, unlike the one on the running machine. Having learned a couple of tricks on getting the first one out of the timing gear housing, the parts machine gave up its' water pump quite easily.

Once I got it out, the seal is in good-enough-to-use condition and the impeller/ceramic looks good too. Bearings were pretty loose though, so I took it all apart and had 2 water pumps in pieces.

I cleaned out all the old, dry grease and reassembled with the new bearings I picked up yesterday and the old seal and impeller. I'm hoping that it will last for a bit while I get my hands on a pair of bearings and a seal to rebuild the remaining pieces - if I have a ready-to-go spare on the shelf, this one should last an eternity!

I didn't even try to remove the old seal - just used the water pump housing from the parts machine!

Andrew



Edited by Andrew_D - 27 Aug 2013 at 6:48pm

dad and i just went through this on one the 8550's.  the seal was leaking because it came  loose from the back of the impeller.  we ordered a new seal and come to find out, the rest of the seal is bonded to the back of the impeller and you had to buy it also.  luckily it was still available so we didnt have to try any bonding.  we wondered if an epoxy of some kind would work better than silicone?  

Edited by CAL(KS) - 28 Aug 2013 at 9:13pm

its hard to find parts for a forty to fifty year old machine also with the company that made them gone for around thirty years, track rollers were up to $600 compared to cat rollers for $300 over here and because no one would buy them for that price they stopped making them ,sooner or later minnpar will stop making parts for the same reason , you cant buy some final drive seals anymore and transmission parts
I think you can still buy the water pump complete if your rebuilt one fails but I think you mite have to sit down when you get the price !

Do what you gotta do- probably won't be doing anything that hasn't been done before with the old dozer.