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What's a good anti-freeze

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Ky.Allis View Drop Down
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Joined: 31 Jan 2010
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ky.Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: What's a good anti-freeze
    Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 5:50pm
Got the radiator back from repair shop today for my 200. Thought I would put in new anti-freeze since the old was 3 yrs. old and I've already dealt with cavation problems about 10 yrs. ago. What's a good brand anti-freeze to use? Are there additives to help avoid cavation? If so what are they? Or if I use a good anti-freeze-Do I need any additive? No dealers close,but locally I do have alot of popular auto parts stores and wally world. Any advice would be most appreciated !!!!!!
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Dave in il View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave in il Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 7:11pm
Any brand name anti-freeze should be okay, do you have the coolling system filter? The filter has a treatment for the cooling system that helps prevent cavatation.
AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company
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Hurst View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 7:18pm
The best antifreeze isn't really a particular antifreeze.  There are two important things on those engines: 1) a coolant filter w/conditioner or constant monitoring of the antifreeze and appropriate addition of SCA additives. 2) Keeping the antifreeze changed regularly (every 2 years is what I try to do on my 7000).  There are antifreezes that are heavy duty diesel antifreeze that have the proper SCA additives from the beginning, but that doesn't mean anything if you don't keep up with the levels using test strips or have a self releasing filter/conditioner and keep the antifreeze changed regularly.

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
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Ky.Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ky.Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 8:00pm
Thanks for the replies guys. No,I do not have coolant filter as the 200 didn't come with that nice feature. Would it be possible to add one? I worked at JD dealer in lexington for 10 yrs. and I know we sold lots of JD coolguard which is pre-mixed and has additives to prevent cavation. I might go that route. Hurst--I live in Nicholasville-Not all that far from you. When I worked at JD dealer,we had several customers in your area. Again ,thanks for your help!!!!!
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Ted in NE-OH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted in NE-OH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 9:03pm
Does the antifreeze additives and rust inhibitors wear out with age or use. I am wondering how often to change the antifreeze on my show CA that only gets 2-3 hours of use per year. What do you think?Big smile
CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914
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Hurst View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 9:33pm
Did you happen to work for Central Equipment?  I use them quite a bit for parts, mostly Woods and Krone parts.  I'm actually in Oklahoma right now for my job, just started up with an oil field service company as an engineer, so I am in their 3 month training class, then off to Canada for the winter, until finally landing about 4 hours away in West Virginia.  

The coolant filter is an easy add on.  I think it was a factor option on the 7000 series, but pretty sure mine is an aftermarket one.  Any diesel truck place should have a kit.  I know that a lot of guys run them on newer diesel trucks with EGR coolers, as they tend to not take kindly to contaminates in the coolant (6.0s are big for this problem).  The filter itself can be purchased at any NAPA, CarQuest, etc.  You just need to know the thread size of the filter base you use.  Basically just run it in a bypass circuit off of the water pump and then draining back.  The 200 should have some blank coolant ports on both sides of the water pump, as they had a factory cab option.  

For test strips, it looks like NAPA has them (PN 4106), and the filter head is something you could probably pick up at a store like that or any HD truck store that works on engines (like Republic Diesel or something).  I personally think a coolant filter is cheap insurance and for the cost, definitely can't hurt.  

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
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Jim Lindemood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim Lindemood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2012 at 7:31am
Hurst -- Sounds like you landed an interesting job - and get to see a little bit of the world - good luck to ya.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CBL95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2012 at 10:54am
I'm not sure if it is still a big problem or not but the ORANGE dexcool from GM had several issues with cavitation and corrosion. So we always switched it over to the usual green or blue anti freeze in our vehicles and anytime we get a tractor with it in them. I heard that they didn't formulate the SCA's properly and caused rapid cavitation and that they fixed it but didn't put as much SCA's as others. I don't know for sure though that's just what I've heard from our diesel teacher and a couple local truck shops
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2012 at 10:59am
I use whatever antifreeze is on sale when I am buying, or the cheapest.  A friend gave me a big bottle of additive from CAT.  I change the coolant and put in the recommended amount of additive.  I figure then I don't need to do any checks on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dipstick In Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2012 at 11:27am
My well is at least 135 feet deep in a limestone bedrock. I always have lots of water! Problem? it is sulphur bearing water(you know- rotten egg smell) and carries a LOT of calcium(hard water). So when I replace a radiator or change coolant, I go to wallyworld and buy distilled water, which is usually less than a buck a gallon and use that as the water. I figure it's cheap insurance to help stop cavitation problems. Then I get an additive (SCA) for added safety, or change filters in my big trucks with every oil change.
Not only is sulphur water smelly, in a closed space like my house, the released smell(vapors) play hell with copper pipes, and my wifes silver, so I have a closed air-injection system that oxygenates the water and kills the sulphur flushiing it down the sewer drain. That unit cost about 57-5800 dollars back in 96-7 and it has more than paid for itself in not having to constantly buy refrigerators and freezers and AC's('member silver solder), and electronics after ONLY a couple of years. Plus the lack of worry from looking at the copper tubing that carries LP gas into the furnace and range('member it LOVES copper), and seeing FLAKING, which means it's tryiing to eat a hole into the tubing!
You don't really have to be smart if you know who is!
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Ky.Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ky.Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2012 at 1:13pm
Yes Hurst--I worked at Central Eq. for 10 yrs. in sales. From 1997-2007. I do remember of Hurstland farm and also Jimmy Nuckols in your area. I am going to check on a coolant filter kit as you suggested. My only concern is how to plumb it in because I think the ports on thermostst housing are already being used for temp. sending unit and cab heater hose. I'll look at it later on today and see. I've moving very slow the last 12 days after a cow got me cornered in a pen and did a # on my left leg. I know you miss being on the farm,but if this is something you enjoy,then hang in there and give it your best !!!      
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2012 at 3:11pm
Originally posted by CBL95 CBL95 wrote:

I'm not sure if it is still a big problem or not but the ORANGE dexcool from GM had several issues with cavitation and corrosion. So we always switched it over to the usual green or blue anti freeze in our vehicles and anytime we get a tractor with it in them. I heard that they didn't formulate the SCA's properly and caused rapid cavitation and that they fixed it but didn't put as much SCA's as others. I don't know for sure though that's just what I've heard from our diesel teacher and a couple local truck shops
There's nothing wrong with Dexcool. Ford has even figured that out and uses it (they call it 'Speciality Orange') in 2011 and newer 6.7 diesels. The Duramax has used it from day 1. Once in a great while I see a waterpump leaking on one. If there is a coolant that isn't formulated right, I would have to say it would be Ford Premium Gold. That's what they filled all 6.0/6.4 diesels with.


Edited by Brian Jasper co. Ia - 14 Sep 2012 at 3:11pm
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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