Allis Chalmers HD3 Rebuild

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   I just began the rebuild of my Grandfather's HD3.  Tear down has gone well up until the steering clutches.  The crawler sat for 30 years unprotected and unused so everything is stuck pretty good.  Any ideas for loosening up the clutch shaft so we can slide it back inside and remove the clutch packs?  Also, we will be looking for a rebuildable engine block due to this one being cracked.  Thank you.

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Stephen Ace Farms Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 27 Dec 2011 Location: California Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stephen Ace Farms Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Allis Chalmers HD3 Rebuild Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:33am
	I just began the rebuild of my Grandfather's HD3. Tear down has gone well up until the steering clutches. The crawler sat for 30 years unprotected and unused so everything is stuck pretty good. Any ideas for loosening up the clutch shaft so we can slide it back inside and remove the clutch packs? Also, we will be looking for a rebuildable engine block due to this one being cracked. Thank you.

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Randaleky Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 423	Post Options Post Reply Quote Randaleky Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 11:16am
	did you remove the snap c ring from the outer housing of the steering clutch where the axle slides into the clutch. if not lifted up with a bent 90 degree flat screw driver blade the axle will only move about 1/8 th of an inch. randal

darrel in ND Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8588	Post Options Post Reply Quote darrel in ND Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 9:05pm
	is this HD3 one of the only 30 that were made with the detroit diesel in the early 40's, or is it one of the newer ones that resemble a D 15 tractor? Darrel

Stephen Ace Farms Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 27 Dec 2011 Location: California Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stephen Ace Farms Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 12:32am
	This is the newer one built off of the D15 wheel tractor. I believe that it was built in the 60's but I may be misdirected on that. I am currently trying to locate information on the numbers as well as the parts schematics to help us identify the missing or broken parts.

Stephen Ace Farms Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 27 Dec 2011 Location: California Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stephen Ace Farms Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 12:45am
	We did remove the ring however everything was just too rusty. We were suggested to begin cutting the clutch pack out. We were able to cut only the pressure plate out and then were able to loosen every thing else with heat or hammer and pry bar. The bad news is that now we need two new pressure plates and that the bearing pilot shafts had old breaks and will need to be replaced. Hopefully I will be able to find them in good condition somewhere.

Ages Cat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hutchinson, MN Points: 681	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ages Cat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 11:37am
	There were two versions of the clutch packs. The early version was held together with 5/16 bolts. The later with 3/8 bolts. The 5/16 bolts worked loose on our tractor. We removed and re drilled per the Service Manual and they turned out fine. If you are rebuilding it, you may want to remove the final drive housings which If I remember correctly will aid in removing the cross shafts. The sprocket output shaft-final drive which has a double Garlock seal is something that you may want to replace as well. Get the kit from Illini or MinnPar as they use a spacer and a double seal. The snap rings in the final drive are a challenge to remove and install, but can be overcome with patience. If you do not have a maintenance manual get one as you will be glad you did.

Stephen Ace Farms Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 27 Dec 2011 Location: California Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stephen Ace Farms Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 6:55pm
	I will need to check the bolt size tommorrow. We have been able to free the cross shafts and have the clutch packs completely out. I dropped the brake drums and the clutch flywheels off to be cleaned and surfaced (if possible). I have located new pressure plates, drive disks and feel the pilot bearing should be easily obtained. However, upon removal it was found that both bearing pilots had been broken (cast) for some time and so I am in the market for a new pair. The name MinnPar has come up a few times over the internet so I think I will try to contact them. We were thinking of replacing the outer seal as well as the inner seal. When looking at the inner seal there are 4 bolts in pattern and 3 bolts in pattern. Any knowledge of what to remove would be appreciated. We do have the service and operator's manuals for this crawler though neither is real clear in this area. I just purchased the parts catalog which should arrive in a few days to clear it all up for us (I hope).

ac-mike Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Kentucky Points: 260	Post Options Post Reply Quote ac-mike Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 7:50am
	I have purchased many parts for my HD-3 rebuild from Min Parr. If you need any help with them give me a shout.