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LouSWPA 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Clinton, Pa
Points: 24021
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 Topic: engine rebuild question
Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 8:35pm |
How much "out of flat" can one get away with when putting a straight edge cross ways on top of the (WD-45) block?
is there any sealer between the block and the sleeve at the top?
any thing to look out for or be careful of when assembling engine?
any hints/tips/slick way of doing any particular step that may otherwise cause be to create new words?
Also, does anyone sell just a sleeve/piston/piston ring kit
Thanks
Edited by LouSWPA - 24 Feb 2011 at 8:46pm
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22810
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Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 9:30pm |
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Good question Lou. I can't wait to hear some answers. I would guess 2-3 thousands would be a lot beings you need .002 stand out for the sleeves.
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LouSWPA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Clinton, Pa
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 11:33am |
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This project is suffering from sever mission creep!
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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sandylakeimplement
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Sandy Lake, PA
Points: 399
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:54pm |
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Depends on where you measure the gap. A long progressive "sway" resulting in about .008 or less would be OK. A quick dip is another matter. No sealer at top of sleeves. Make sure you position the wrist pins properly in the piston/rod clamp. Bill
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Sandy Lake Implement
Sandy Lake, PA
724-376-2489
www.sandylakeimp.com
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Tony.Or
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Joined: 18 Mar 2010
Location: Oregon
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 1:02pm |
Lou !! I can set you up with the sleeve kits only, no bearings or gaskets.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 1:29pm |
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Bill, If I understood the question right he was asking about side to side out of flat. Length ways I could see a long progressive curve but side to side I would think would be different.
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LouSWPA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Clinton, Pa
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 3:12pm |
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No, Charlie, I'm speaking of the measurement at the center of the block when a straight edge is placed diagonally across the top of the block SW to NE and then SE to NW
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
|
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nella(Pa)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Allentown, Pa.
Points: 3082
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 8:51pm |
I put the straight edge on the head or block, put a piece of newspaper under the straight edge and if the newspaper is removed very easily the head or block might need planning.
No sealer is used on the cylinders lip.
Prepare oil pan and valve cover, if bolt holes or lips are distorted from over tightening straighten them.
If the crank is out don't forget to put the little L shaped gaskets in under the rear main bearing cap, put some Permatex #2 on them. I have seen generic sets that didn't have them in the kit.
If the end gaskets for the oil pan are cork soak them in hot water just before installation and use Prematex on them. Don't cut them off, they will compress as you tighten the oil pan. The gasket set might have the clips to hold these gaskets in place, most generic kits don't have them.
Don't exchange the #2 & #3 connecting rods, they are offset.
Check the bearing clearnce with plastic gauge, .003 to .004.
Hopes this helps.
Edited by nella(Pa) - 25 Feb 2011 at 9:00pm
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LouSWPA
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Location: Clinton, Pa
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 10:38pm |
 nella(Pa) wrote:
I put the straight edge on the head or block, put a piece of newspaper under the straight edge and if the newspaper is removed very easily the head or block might need planning.
No sealer is used on the cylinders lip.
Prepare oil pan and valve cover, if bolt holes or lips are distorted from over tightening straighten them.
If the crank is out don't forget to put the little L shaped gaskets in under the rear main bearing cap, put some Permatex #2 on them. I have seen generic sets that didn't have them in the kit.
If the end gaskets for the oil pan are cork soak them in hot water just before installation and use Prematex on them. Don't cut them off, they will compress as you tighten the oil pan. The gasket set might have the clips to hold these gaskets in place, most generic kits don't have them.
Don't exchange the #2 & #3 connecting rods, they are offset.
Check the bearing clearnce with plastic gauge, .003 to .004.
Hopes this helps.
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yes, it does.....'specially about the 2/3 rods!
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
|
|
CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22810
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Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 10:52pm |
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Lou, don't use the whole newspaper. One sheet is enough since it's about .0025 thick. Hope this helps. LMAO
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nella(Pa)
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Location: Allentown, Pa.
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Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 7:23am |
Good Morning Lou,
When you put in the connecting rods in, there is one side that is suppose to be facing the cam shaft, I think it is the side with the numbers on them. It has been a long time since I overhauled one(30-35 yrs). Boy, is that enough to give you a senior moment.
You could also mike the crank journals for being out of round if you like.
After you put the o rings on the bottom of the sleeves slip a round screwdriver under the o ring and go around the cylinder a few times to get out any twists that might be in the o ring. I always lubricated and sealed them with a stiff water pump grease before I put the sleeve in the block.
Keep us posted on your progress or any questions. I see that this project has mission creep, I usually come your way to kayak the Youghiogheny once or twice a year and if conditions permit I would gladly stop by and give you a hand.
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