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duetz 385 planter

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orangepower View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote orangepower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: duetz 385 planter
    Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 7:42pm
we have a 385 planter thats spilling seed wear the seed disk and seed pad come together, the disk won't tighten up against the pad, even with the nut tight. anyone had this problem ? how do I fix? new seed discs ? I put all new seed pads in before we started using it this spring.
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DanWi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanWi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 8:55pm
Sounds like a warped or worn seed disc maybe, are there any shim washers in there to remove?
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SLee(IA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SLee(IA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 8:56pm
Time for new seed disc. They become soft and won't hold the concave shape to seal against the pad and wear ring. They should be removed from the planter when finished for the year and stored inside.
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russ-neia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 9:10pm
Check to be certain that the cast backstop washer is seated properly against the roll pin in the hopper shaft.  If not, this will hold the seed disc out too far.  Remove shims between this cast washer and the seed disc if any are present.  Next, check the tin wear ring and be sure that it is smooth, slick and glued tight to the hopper housing, as it will sometimes get loose and let a seed wedge between it and the housing, leading to spillage.  To check discs for warpage, lay a straight-edge across them.  Should touch edges before center, or at least equally all the way across.  If it touches in the center first, it is warped.
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SLee(IA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SLee(IA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 9:52pm
Good ideas from Russ.  Also I had a few of the metal sleeves that the shaft turns in wear on the back side of the seed housing letting the shaft move out a little and reduce the preasure the seed discs puts on the sealing ring.
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote orangepower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2011 at 7:22pm
thanks for the suggestions, sounds like seed discs to me, since i haven't changed those before,   It will be awhile before i get to it, to cold now.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2011 at 9:20pm
lay the seed disc on a flat surface, press down on center, IF the center is above the surface and one can press down and the center moves, the disc is fine. Seed discs should have 1/32nd" convex dish in them.  Also the edges should be almost as thick as the center.  I have seen discs worn paper thin.
 
As stated place a straight edge from one side of the meter to the other passing over the center cast disc.  All should be level.  Early 385's have a ball bearing that turns the seed disc. Late models only have a bushing and sleeve. Either can shift as the pressure is to let the cast washer move to the right when viewed from behind.   Press the bearing  or sleeve back in and see if it stays , if not remove and loctite. 
 
Place the discs on the meter and tighten, one should be able to put a finger nail or small pocket flat screw driver in and pull out  on disc edge and pry away frome sealing edge. when let go the disc should "pop" back.  We always cut a V notch on the disc's edge the exactly the width of the wear pattern on the outter edge of the disc.  V points to the center of the disc. This allows any build up to be scraped out as the disc rotates.
 
Then #1 reason the seed push the disc out is low air pressure. Low pressure allows a build up of seed that puts more internal side pressure than the disc can stand.
Reasons of low air pressure (2 WC" mandatory)  clogged fan blades  and low voltage resulting from bad connections, bad switch in monitor, and bad plug where the planter hitch disconnect is.  ALSO and this is important, strip back the ground wires at the harness at each motor and splice in a ground wire to the frame. This extra ground will increase RPM of motor by at least 5% - one can hear the motors pick up speed.
 
We put a few White Air systems on AC planters with great success.  The only caution is not to over pressure the seed chamber as doubles will result. (useing self tapping drill bit screws - a White "tickler" brush can be installed and will greatly aid in elimination doubles - these are also found in milo kits for 385's) 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frankmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2011 at 9:13am
If I remember correctly, on mine, the bushing that holds the seed disk shaft was worn just enough to let the disk flex away from the pad no matter how good the disk is. Worth checking out! Not a hard problem or too expensive either. Parts are still available from AGCO.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2011 at 9:19am

After season all seed discs are better off being removed from the planter so they don't go flat.

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orangepower View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote orangepower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2011 at 12:47pm
the low voltage light is on, on the monitor, so I probably have low air pressure to, I'll  try the ground wires to the planter frame, does agco sell new plugs?
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