D-14 overheating

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   OK. 'Troy' wants to peg the temp gauge so....
1) drain all the 50/50
2) water flush rad ,both ways, comes out strong,no krap
3) water flush engine, both ways,comes out strong, no krap
4) buy new stat kit ( rubber ring, stat, brass adapter)
5) install new Vbelt...

fill rad with cool water, eventually rad 'boils over' ,though NOT hot water

IR gun says block by plugs is 120*F, so really not 'overheating',though gauge says 'red'.

Tractor is kinda 'nose down' on the grade,so thinking 'air block' ?

New stat kit...different rubber ring and brass adapter, can't use(brass won't fit into housing) # 228124.

Tomorrow I'll remove the temp sender and fill from there.

ANY ideas,thoughts, guesses are  appreciated. Kinda stymied on this !!!

Sure glad I don't NEED the tractor......

Thanks
Jay

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jaybmiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24419	Post Options Post Reply Quote jaybmiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: D-14 overheating Posted: 04 Jun 2025 at 3:39pm
	OK. 'Troy' wants to peg the temp gauge so.... 1) drain all the 50/50 2) water flush rad ,both ways, comes out strong,no krap 3) water flush engine, both ways,comes out strong, no krap 4) buy new stat kit ( rubber ring, stat, brass adapter) 5) install new Vbelt... fill rad with cool water, eventually rad 'boils over' ,though NOT hot water IR gun says block by plugs is 120*F, so really not 'overheating',though gauge says 'red'. Tractor is kinda 'nose down' on the grade,so thinking 'air block' ? New stat kit...different rubber ring and brass adapter, can't use(brass won't fit into housing) # 228124. Tomorrow I'll remove the temp sender and fill from there. ANY ideas,thoughts, guesses are appreciated. Kinda stymied on this !!! Sure glad I don't NEED the tractor...... Thanks Jay
	3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

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Gary Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5892	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gary Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Jun 2025 at 7:20pm
	I/R Gun says 120'F ! Put some tape over that defective Temp. Gauge. Put the Thermostat back in and drive it. G

PaulB Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4998	Post Options Post Reply Quote PaulB Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Jun 2025 at 7:42pm
	Take a look at where the sensor is for the temperature gauge is: Right next to the exhaust valve, of course it is going to read hot. What does your I/R gun read right at that location and compare it to the gauge. All the small D engine had the sensor located here until the D15II came out. Not at the same time you take a reading by the exhaust valve, What is it reading on the head just below the thermostat housing? This is where the D15II has the sensor and where I relocate the sensor to in all the small D engines I work on. It's like fixing a charging problem what the tractor has a +60-60 amp gauge and the maximum generator output is 12 amps or a low oil pressure complaint when the tractor has 10-15PSI normally and there's a 80PSI gauge installed. Get you reading where it should be taken from and then see how thigs are.
	If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY

WF owner Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4926	Post Options Post Reply Quote WF owner Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 5:41am
	Unless I am reading it wrong, I believe he is saying that the tractor pushes coolant out after running for a while, but the coolant being pushed out is not hot. Have you tried removing the thermostat to see if it does the same thing? Are you sure you didn't install the new thermostat backward? When I was a kid (a long time ago...), it seemed that thermostats were replaced quite often. I rarely hear of anyone changing one now. Edited by WF owner - Yesterday at 5:45am

Gary Burnett Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3037	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gary Burnett Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 6:08am
	What pressure cap are you using?

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21537	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 6:15am
	Do NOT overfill the radiator !!! It must be down a couple of inches at least when cold. It also sounds like you need a new and ACCURATE temp gauge. Edited by DrAllis - Yesterday at 6:21am

PaulB Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4998	Post Options Post Reply Quote PaulB Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 7:12am
	Using a radiator cap with a 3/4" reach will allow an Allis Chalmers to boil over quickly because Allis Chalmers need a 1" reach cap.
	If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21537	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 7:25am
	Coolant temp sensors for series 2 model D-15's were both ways. The early G-160's were still on top of the cylinder head towards the rear. Only the later model tractors had the sensor moved to directly underneath the thermostat. We had two of them over the years and they were the older style. I myself had a later model one with the brake pedal latching feature and it was under the stat.

jaybmiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24419	Post Options Post Reply Quote jaybmiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 7:35am
	Update on 'Troy'. refilled with water, confirmed water comes out the temp sender hole( drivers end of engine), yeah filled too much, no cap on, want to see what happens. sure enough 'excess water' escapes.... gauge goes up to 220 then back down to 180ish and stays there for 10+ minutes. block temp 160ish 4-5 spots on right ride by plugs. shut her down, let it cool, then this afternoon, put rad cap on and start her up again. seems to be 'ok'........finger crossed. thanks for replies ! Jay
	3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water