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Build a Synchro rectifier for Onan CCK??

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Heliarc View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 Jun 2019
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heliarc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Build a Synchro rectifier for Onan CCK??
    Posted: Yesterday at 7:48am
I opened up the old rectifier from an Onan. It was epoxy potted. I was able to put it in boiling water and carefully pick the epoxy away. Not sure what I'm looking at exactly. I figure the white wire is an output and the two black wires are inputs. Black wires (AC) go into two diodes, then out (DC) through the white wire? I figure a guy that knows anything about electronics could build this no problem and for only a few dollars. If anyone on here knows just what this stuff is I'd love to know as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 10:23am
You have a half wave rectifier there. Two diodes mounted to a metallic plate which serves as a parallel anode connection, and heat sink to pull the heat away from the diodes. Assembly should be mounted in the airstream of the flywheel cooling fan.  Replace both diodes with 20A units paying attention to the direction. When you impress more positive potential upon the cathode than the anode, the diode conducts rectifying the output through the white wire into a very noisy output DC voltage; good enough to recharge a starting battery. 
That's All Folks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 hours 40 minutes ago at 12:57pm
the ones i am familiar with are on the old BRIGGS engines.. ONE WIRE from the alternator goes into the two diodes... One diode changes to DC to charge the battery.. The other DIODE changes to DC to feed the head lights... Head lights dont work off the battery...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 hours 19 minutes ago at 1:18pm
have also seen  Two alternator wire in and ONE 12v DC out put...




Edited by steve(ill) - 22 hours 3 minutes ago at 1:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 hours 2 minutes ago at 1:35pm
several variations over the years and depends on size of engine / stator..


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Walker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 hours 29 minutes ago at 7:08pm
At one time, there was a guy on the internet who would custom-build them for less than retail.  As I recall, I had him build one for a Yamaha mc. Seems to me he was a first name and rectifiers, something like Ricks Rectifiers or something.  I'm talking like 25 years ago, so I can't say if he still does or not. Might be worth a Google experience to see.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heliarc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 58 minutes ago at 5:39am
Originally posted by Codger Codger wrote:

You have a half wave rectifier there. Two diodes mounted to a metallic plate which serves as a parallel anode connection, and heat sink to pull the heat away from the diodes. Assembly should be mounted in the airstream of the flywheel cooling fan.  Replace both diodes with 20A units paying attention to the direction. When you impress more positive potential upon the cathode than the anode, the diode conducts rectifying the output through the white wire into a very noisy output DC voltage; good enough to recharge a starting battery. 


I'm not sure how this is done but the mounting plate seems like plastic, yet it's tinned with solder. This entire assembly was mounted to an aluminum plate for heat transfer I'd guess but they don't want it to ground out.

Do you figure just any old 20A diodes? Was also wondering if I got both of them reversed as far as direction, would that reverse the output polarity of the alternator? Just curious there.

I don't know how useful this particular piece would be for many people, but a lot of this stuff we run is obsolete. There's not much money in it for the big guys to make replacement parts so it's going to get passed off to China and India and a lot of times we're lucky to even have that. I hit the jackpot in that someone found some NOS stuff for this engine. It's priced as you'd expect but for now it's the real stuff and it works great. I figure we ought to get creative if we want to keep things running. NOS and used parts will dry up. In time it won't even be worth it to China and India to make parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ekjdm14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 4 minutes ago at 7:33am
edited because I'm stupid!

The reason for the diodes being isolated from the heatsink on what is probably a silver coated mica wafer is because the common output of the diodes is +ve hence can't be grounded. 

I should think pretty much any old diode will do the job on this, not really a critical circuit BUT if you were to reverse the polarity then you'd likely melt the stator as you'd effectively be shorting the battery to ground through it.


Edited by ekjdm14 - 3 hours 57 minutes ago at 7:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 57 minutes ago at 7:40am
you can buy most of these PREMADE in the aftermarket... If you are SURE the two black wires come from the alternator and the WHITE wire is the 12v OUTLET... then i have used one of these... If your WHITE wire comes from the  alternator and the two BLACK wires are the  12v ( charge and lights)  outputs, then you need a Different type of box... see my drawings in the post above...




Edited by steve(ill) - 3 hours 56 minutes ago at 7:41am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 49 minutes ago at 7:48am
variations..........


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