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Welding ??

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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 5:54pm
Is there a scenario where the old time Lincoln buzz box stick welder is "superior" in a welding situation over a Mig welder ?
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thendrix View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thendrix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 5:59pm
If the materials being welded are rusty, greasy, dirty, and unable to be cleaned
"Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 6:19pm
Stick Weld will Schedule Fracture Test(material is folded at weld) good where a MIG will fail if Fold Stressed.  Is due to penetration value.

Misnomer is 'Buzz Box', a Premium Stick Welder is not a Lincoln Tombstone.


Edited by DMiller - 10 Nov 2021 at 6:21pm
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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 6:32pm
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Stick Weld will Schedule Fracture Test(material is folded at weld) good where a MIG will fail if Fold Stressed.  Is due to penetration value.

Misnomer is 'Buzz Box', a Premium Stick Welder is not a Lincoln Tombstone.
 
Thanks for the reply DMiller, what "might be" considered a premium stick welder ? 
My reference to the Lincoln was to the welder in the shop that's been welding on dads place since I can remember ;1971 Smile !!
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:13pm
BUZZ BOX normally refers to the old Lincoln red - AC welder..

A far superior welder is a DC type stick welder.. Bought one  30 years ago and have NEVER used an AC since........ If you weld, and can afford it, the DC is the only way to go.

Wire feed welder (MIG) are easy to use and teach those that are not experienced welders with stick... I have a small wire feed for sheetmetal up to  3/16 inch.. You can get BIG Mig welders, but i prefer STICK for larger jobs.


Edited by steve(ill) - 10 Nov 2021 at 7:17pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:40pm
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Stick Weld will Schedule Fracture Test(material is folded at weld) good where a MIG will fail if Fold Stressed.  Is due to penetration value.

Misnomer is 'Buzz Box', a Premium Stick Welder is not a Lincoln Tombstone.

Depends on what you call a tomb stone?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac fleet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 11:15pm
You are stuck if it aint stick!--and dc is better than ac, but both require experience to do a good job!
as far as wire------ its the biggest joke for welding ever invented!
I have a big wire unit and do use it but its mostly just a toy! For the serious welding its the old  Hobart 200 dc that does the jobs.
http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2021 at 12:23am
An AC 'buzz box' welder's primary advantage over wirefeed is in economy of circumstance:

An AC welder is very simple. There is no feeder mechanism, no liner, no nozzles or tips, no gas.

There is no particular need for special lead wire.  A good pair of jumper cables will extend  your ground, and a pair of vise-grips will hold the rod.

A change in filler material is as simple as grabbing a different rod.

A long, skinny rod can reach into places that a MIG gun will NOT.
A stick weld can be done well where wind will challenge a MIG's ability to maintain a flux shield.

An AC welder is inexpensive.

I'll  add note that, to stick weld requires a bit more skill to do well...  but also note that, if I have three car batteries, pair of aforementioned vise-grips, several sets of jumper cables, a pair of gloves and a dark faceshield, I can weld a spring hanger back onto a Jeep frame with a 7018 rod well enough to get it 30 trail miles back to camp.

That being said,  My production welding is done with 0.035" ER70S wire.  The suggestion that MIG doesn't penetrate, is not true.  My Miller CP-200 runs on single phase 240v, and will burn a hole right through a 1/4" plate without drama.  An improper weld setup does not yield proper penetration, but failure of a weld therin does not reflect on on the process being used, it reflects upon the individual performing the process.  If a welding supply and the process controls are either not set up, or insufficient for the process, the individual is STILL the fault.


Edited by DaveKamp - 11 Nov 2021 at 12:31am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2021 at 7:02am
First of all, the term "Buzz Box" pre-dates what most think of as a Lincoln "Tombstone" ,  most people referring to tombstones are thinking of the 225 amp AC or later AC/DC  welders which were derived from the old 180 amp AC version designed for farm and home use, before these were the first Lincoln transformer welders known as the Idealarc 250 for industrial use, built in AC and AC/DC versions, which are a fine welder and still in production and heavily used. These welders originally had a rounded top and really did resemble a tombstone.  Previous to this, most serious welders employed a generator, either driven electrically or with an engine.  I've been welding for over fifty years and still maintain that if I could have only one welder, it would be an AC/DC stick welder, especially for doing repair work on anything rusty, dirty, or out of position.  No doubt, running .093 flux cored wire at 400 amps is faster, but you're not going to be doing that in many home shops, so speed really becomes a moot point with anything being done at 250 amps or less if you have the skills. My experience is that if a person can't stick weld, they aren't much of a welder with a MIG welder either, for a while there was a fantasy that anyone would weld with a wire welder, almost true if someone else sets it up....maybe? Take a look at low end  trailers and there is a lot of this kind of welding on display. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dusty MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2021 at 7:06am
I made a mistake when buying my wire welder. I bought a 120 volt one, thinking that if needed, it could be plugged into an extension cord. When turned all the way up, it draws more than 20 amps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2021 at 7:37am
Likewise. But I needed it for a remote fix and ran it off my generator to get by. I will continue to use it for small stuff but others will get much more use.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2021 at 3:05pm
I have a 120 v wire feed. I use it for 18 gauge sheetmetal up to about  10 gauge ( 1/8 inch)... It uses .024 inch wire with CO2 gas purge...... Nice for car body / brackets / trailer fenders/ etc.......... anything bigger than that i use the Miller Thunderbolt DC stick welder with 7018 rod ......... unless its stainless, then i have 308 stick... I prefer to use 3/32 rod on EVERYTHING... Great for 1/8 - 1/4 inch in one pass ... if its 1/2 inch plate, its 3 passes.. I very seldom do anything over 3/4 inch thick ( like a disc beam / frame)
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2021 at 4:23pm
Since buying my Pow Con welder which runs stick, wire or can scratch start TIG I do all my welding mostly with S 70s .035 wire using Argon/CO2 shield gas .
 Being a inverter welder the frequency is changed and then upped and then changed to DC for output . Can revers polarity or straight , spray arc or ?
 Now that I have the Miller 304 machine that also has all those uses + water cooled TIG high frequency start , it has become main welder .
 On stick - it's the choice of rod one uses that make the weld so 6010 P for root pass and 7018 as cover weld most material can be welded with a strong outcome . 
 On straight AC a 6011 rod and 7018 AC rod still works but seldom use it now .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2021 at 10:40pm
A portable welder of ANY flavor, that runs off a 120v outlet, will be limited in it's capacity, simply by virtue of it's input capacity.  One trades portability and convenience for power.  Using an extension cord strangles an already-weak situation, so you're gonna be limited to thin sheet or just getting parts tacked together.  I used my Hobart Handler80 many times just fitting up parts in-situ, then disassembling and removing the workpiece to the welding bench for finish welding with a much more powerful (gas-fed) system.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2021 at 7:03am
Trained to weld high pressure pipe by Standard oil of Ohio in 1962. Later traind in tig to weld injection molds. At 83 I have the AC/DC  stick and tig in the tool shop and at home have the wire welder and the Ac buz box stick welders. Welding depends on the the base metal, thickness, type of stick or wire and skill.  

Skill includes the ability to recognize the above to successfully weld your project.    


Edited by Dick L - 12 Nov 2021 at 7:03am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2021 at 7:57pm
Originally posted by Dick L Dick L wrote:

Skill includes the ability to recognize the above to successfully weld your project.    


AMEN!!!Wink
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2021 at 8:35am
I spent 30+ years in several sawmills in the Pacific northwest, 27 years as a sawfiler. These were big, high-speed operations with big bandmills and also lots of smaller circular saws.

Due to the constant flexing, high speeds and high strains, bandsaws tend to develop cracks which must be welded.

When I was a beginning sawfiler this welding was all done with an oxy-acetylene torch, later on we gradually switched to either MIG or TIG. This changeover took quite a while as sawfilers tend to be reluctant to move away from things that are familiar and known to work well.

When I was Head Filer I experimented with both methods and found TIG to be more versatile, but the main drawback was that it requires a higher skill level and more training to master.

We settled on using the little Hobart wire-feed 120 Volt machines because they worked well and were easy to get set up. I could train a new filer to make good welds in about an hour.

Keep in mind, this welding machine would be set up for welding the very same steel every time and never needed to be changed once properly adjusted.

Post-treatment of the weld required a bit more training though.

A typical bandsaw would be 16 gauge (0.065") thick and 9 or maybe 10 inches wide when new and 35-40 feet in length. We usually ran them at 10,000-11,000 feet per minute of rim speed and strained up to 20,000 lbs (the force pulling the saw tight on the wheels). Bandmill wheels were 5' to 6' in diameter 10" wide with a minimum of 250 horsepower per saw. Most of these were twin band or quad band setups. Saws were usually changed at 2-hour intervals.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2021 at 8:51am
We settled on using the little Hobart wire-feed 120 Volt machines because they worked well and were easy to get set up. I could train a new filer to make good welds in about an hour.

I did the same thing with Son.. Bought a 120v unit, and a beat up old Ford Bronco when he was 15 years old...Showed him how to cut out panels and weld in new on the fenders / floor / rocker panels... Your right... started in the morning and by noon he thought he was a professional !
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2021 at 10:02am
Yup, wire feeds are wonderful tools, but they do tend to make rank beginners believe that they are now "real welders". NOT!

For my personal use around the homestead I have a Lincoln AC-only 225 Amp Buzz Box. My needs are simple and it gets the job done. I still have my oxy-acetylene torch for fine work such as sheet metal, brazing, cutting, etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2021 at 12:24pm
The MOST IMPORTANT part of basic welding...

Is to be an individual with something metal, that's broken... and NO PRIOR experience or tools to correct it...

And become an individual with something that was previously broken in two, and now back together.

NOTHING... and I mean NOTHING is more important than starting with no skills, no tools, and no experience, and ending up with skills, tools, and experience.

It doesn't matter how skills, tools, and experience evolve PAST that... it is finding initial success, and being able to move forward as one finds necessary.

I started with a Lincoln 225 AC welder given to me by my grandfather... he bought it at a farm sale, hoping my uncle would learn, and be able to repair broken farm implements.  Uncle never did, Grandpa was scared to death of anything electric beyond putting a battery in a transistor radio.

At 11yrs old, I made an adapter, and wired a 240v breaker into my dad's garage electric panel.  My dad was a woodworker, so NO assistance available there.  Neighbor two doors down was a maintenance technician at the aluminum plant, and he COULD weld, so my first lesson was with a handful of old wet 7018 rods, on two pieces of rusty metal.  Took me about 3 hours to strike an arc, about another 3 to get the two pieces to stick together... and a day to recover from arc-flash burns where I didn't have good-enough covering.

Today, there's a selection of MIGs in my shop, a TIG, and three stick welding units inside, and three engine-driven welder-generators ready to go wherever they're needed.  There's a selection of stick and wire types and sizes, there's TIG electrodes, and several choices of gases.  Am I a professional? certainly not...  but I can repair and build, and I've taught many to repair and build.

Given the question of 'what to start with'... If a guy REALLY wants to learn, starting with an AC Stick is what I'd suggest.  Why?  Because it's difficult... once you learn to manage it, particularly if you've got a wet rod that's TOO LARGE, and underpowered welder, a poorly-sized input power source, and dirty, rusty metal with a flaccid ground clamp and burned-up electrode holder, by the time you get to the point where you can draw a bead, you'll be able to handle ANY electric welding process... including sizing and setup, with ease.

The problem with doing this, is that many people just-aren't-that-patient.  I clean up and fit square tubing, tack it in place, and have my son hit it with the MIG, which has already been set properly, and he'll hot-glue that framework together, with full penetration, in no time.

Portable gasless MIG welding has brought electric welding capacity to hundreds-of-thousands, if not millions of garages across the country, and it works...  it does the same thing that the South Bend 9 and Atlas 10 lathe did for machining skills from the 50's to the 70's... and cordless drill-drivers did for home-improvement skills from the late '80's on.

It's not the machine, or the process:  It is the man.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2021 at 12:40pm
Hey there Dave, sounds as my own experiences, handed a gas axe in trade school told to gas weld a flex pipe to a flange, knew enough to do it but TERRIBLE looking, shop teacher and I reviewed the process and I got better.  Next up first real job outside of Military, working mechanic in a fleet shop, had to replace frame rail of a freightliner COE, they come Full Length No rear suspension holes, mastered that with Bridge Reamers(SWEET Drilling mechanisms), then had to gas axe the frame end and taper requiring a welded drop for a rear crossmember, done with a Lincoln Tombstone.

Got pretty good with root pass 6013 then clean up and overweld final pass with 7018, got to where I could root with damp 7018 just had to stick the rod and smoke the moisture off first.  I am NOT a Certified Welder but an accomplished Junkyard Welder.
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