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Coke 
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 Topic: Electric Forums
Posted: 08 Nov 2020 at 9:57pm |
Anyone know of any forums or groups out there dedicated to electrifying older model tractors? All that battery weight is better than calcium filled tires. 
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1957 D17 Diesel w/ M&W Pistons
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shameless dude
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 1:01am |
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there is a company building electric tractors right now. however they are new. can't remember the brand right now. i would imagine the hardest part of doing an old one is finding the batteries and controlers/motors. take a look at golf carts and maybe build accordingly?
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DanWi
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 8:06am |
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The coop uses a duetz tractor that they have a conveyor on to pile corn on the blacktop. When the motor went bad someone rigged up an electric motor so it can be driven around the yard. Only can drive as far as the electric cord reaches though.
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Coke
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 8:44am |
I'm gonna need a really long extension cord then
Seriously tho' I think shameless is talking about Solartec or Solatrac I forget the name, they reckon on a battery life of 3-6 hours depending on load, and the packs are replacable. I imagine the premise being you just drop a new one in and keep going, I rarely use mine for more than a couple of hours at a time, and I always hook it up to the charger (because the generator doesn't work). I could even think about some solar panels at the south end of the shed.
My dad worked in the garage of a local dairy for 30 years, back when milk was delivered daily, so I've seen a lot of short range, high torque, electric vehicles, and with the controller technology available now, I think even using lead acid packs, you could get better finesse out of them.
Edited by Coke - 09 Nov 2020 at 8:45am
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1957 D17 Diesel w/ M&W Pistons
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Kansas99
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 9:17am |
Here ya go, nothing a little pocket change won't get. Not sure what it costs to get a steering wheel.  The 30 HP diesel-equivalent eFarmer provides unparalleled visibility and maneuverability for the next generation of row-crop farming. 4-8 hours with 28kWh battery pack, depending on loads. Additional battery packs may be added on any of the hitches to
extend runtime. BATTERY RUNTIMEBATTERY Charging3 hour quick charge for one pack, or an overnight slow charge for 2 packs.
Battery management system (BMS) automatically protects the batteries during charging and discharging. A
simple joystick controls steering and speed, which allows for easy
navigation between row crops. Rates of speed are variable and controlled
by joystick position. steering/speedIncludes
front hitch for low lift loader or reaper, mid hitch for precision
cultivation tools and rear hitch that accepts all Category 1 - 540 RPM
-PTO implements 3 point hitch/ implementsBASE PRICE: $49,500 OPTIONSFront Loader: $1000Exchangeable Battery Pack: $10,000
Edited by Kansas99 - 09 Nov 2020 at 9:18am
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DMiller
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 10:31am |
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30hp, who are they kidding Row Crop!!!!
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Coke
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 12:00pm |
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Maybe the need to bring back the bottom plow measurement, it's all about the torque, not the horsepower after all.
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1957 D17 Diesel w/ M&W Pistons
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Tbone95
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 12:06pm |
 Coke wrote:
Maybe the need to bring back the bottom plow measurement, it's all about the torque, not the horsepower after all.
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Yeah yeah, DC motor torque through the roof when it's stalled. Which is another way of saying you aren't going anywhere!  So, with weight and torque, you can pull something. Without actual horsepower, you won't be doing so at any speed worth doing.
Edited by Tbone95 - 09 Nov 2020 at 12:07pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 12:41pm |
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YEP... Torque is a FORCE.... Horse Power takes some movement, SPEED / RPM into effect... I can get TORQUE out of a torque wrench.. but it is not MOVING.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Coke
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 12:45pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
YEP... Torque is a FORCE.... Horse Power takes some movement, SPEED / RPM into effect... I can get TORQUE out of a torque wrench.. but it is not MOVING. |
Really, you can torque your nuts without any movement, what a scientific achievment that must be. 
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Kansas99
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 1:04pm |
DMiller wrote:
30hp, who are they kidding Row Crop!!!! |
You should go to the site, it looks like a bicycle frame with 4 wheels. The loader is quite impressive probably hold 1/2 a wheel barrel. If they build a actual row crop tractor I dare say it's going to be a little pricey. 
Only costs a extra $10,000 for a spare battery pack. 
Edited by Kansas99 - 09 Nov 2020 at 1:06pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 1:13pm |
Really, you can torque your nuts without any movement, what a scientific achievment that must be.
YES... you are doing WORK while you tighten the nuts, but when you reach TORQUE and STALL OUT... NO WORK... NO HP. Its a hard concept to accept, but you can PUSH on a building all day long and wear yourself out.. If it DONT MOVE, then there was no WORK or HP..... you need MOVEMENT.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 1:15pm |
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 1:17pm |
What is the formula of work?Work is done when a force that is applied to an object moves that object. The work is calculated by multiplying the force by the amount of movement of an object (W = F * d). A force of 10 newtons, that moves an object 3 meters, does 30 n-m of work. How do you calculate power in physics? Power equals work (J) divided by time (s). The SI unit for power is the watt (W), which equals 1 joule of work per second (J/s). Power may be measured in a unit called the horsepower. One horsepower is the amount of work a horse can do in 1 minute, which equals 745 watts of power.
Edited by steve(ill) - 09 Nov 2020 at 1:21pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 1:17pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
<span style="color: rgb0, 0, 36; : rgb254, 252, 212;">Really, you can torque your nuts without any movement, what a scientific achievment that must be.</span><span style="color: rgb0, 0, 36; : rgb254, 252, 212;">
</span> <span style="color: rgb0, 0, 36; : rgb254, 252, 212;">YES... you are doing WORK while you tighten the nuts, but when you reach TORQUE and STALL OUT... NO WORK... NO HP. Its a hard concept to accept, but you can PUSH on a building all day long and wear yourself out.. If it DONT MOVE, then there was no WORK or HP..... you need MOVEMENT.</span> |
I would say, what he's getting at, if you go from free spinning the nut with your fingers, then from snug you put a torque wrench on them, they move. But of course we know, they move very little, and as you say, you can hold that static torque there the rest of your life and do no work.
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Coke
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 1:56pm |
But you can't reach the set torque without moving (torquing) your nuts first.
Unless all you deal with is rusty nuts, that you try and tighten, which I guess is possible.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 2:13pm |
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Coke, I don't think anyone is arguing that little piece of the puzzle. Thing is, you don't plow a field with torque, you have to get it done with power. The high stall torque of a DC motor diminishes to a balance of torque and speed when you're using it at any appreciable rate, it has to. And you're not putting out any power using a torque wrench.
Put another way, to plow 2 acres per hour is going to take a certain amount of horsepower, 60 is probably a good round average figure properly weighted, and it's going to take that regardless of where that power comes from. Torque is part of that power, so is the speed at which you can do it.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 2:15pm |
Coke wrote:
But you can't reach the set torque without moving (torquing) your nuts first.
Unless all you deal with is rusty nuts, that you try and tighten, which I guess is possible.
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In other words, it's not constant movement, you move the nut on the thread until the load is reached, from that point it's all static, like steve's analogy of pushing on a building, there's a force there, but no work accomplished, therefore no power is present either.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 3:29pm |
i think i screwed up using the torque wrench... i should have used the example of an Allis G hooked to a 8 bottom plow !!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 4:36pm |
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Coke
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 6:01pm |
Which is what I said
Coke wrote:
Maybe we need to bring back the bottom plow measurement, |
I also asked
Coke wrote:
Anyone know of any forums or groups out there dedicated to electrifying older model tractors? |
And from y'all, I'm guessing the answer is no. Google it is then.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 6:27pm |
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There could be a forum such as you suggest, beats me. I’d have googled that in the first place.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 6:32pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Kansas99
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 6:38pm |
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What's he got on the front of that unit? Never seen that before, I'm assuming something for a specialty crop?
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shameless dude
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Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 7:50pm |
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the one i saw was a tractor looking tractor (on the small side) was all electric, could plow for 6-8 hours (3 bottom) on a full charge and recharge overnight. plugged into 120 Volt outlet. i'll dig around and see if i can find the pics and story again. Coke....as for recharge or maintain charge, years ago i bought a HF solar battery charger. it works, just takes a day or 2, one time i left my 180 out in the field, i musta forgot the radio on, cuz the next morning the battery was dead. i tarp strapped that charger on top of the hood and hooked it up to the battery, i got back to the tractor 2 days later and it started right up! maybe that would be your cheapest route on your tractor. maybe extend the cord, mount on your shed and hook up the wires to your tractor battery until you use it again?
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shameless dude
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Posted: 12 Nov 2020 at 3:42am |
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saw alot of different electric tractors on you tube, also there is a video of how to change a garden tractor over to electric, might could get you info off that, shouldn't be that much different from a garden tractor to one a little bigger? i think the battery costs are still prohibitive yet for outright buying. the dude that builds all electric tractors in CA says as time goes on the batteries are getting cheaper. he's the dude that makes the tractor that Steve (ill) posted above. he had alot of info on his video. i was unable to get any pricing on any of the electric tractors already in production, prolly hafta call each company to get that. i would have a use for one, more than my diesel/gas tractors. just think...no more oil/filter changes, no more plugs/wires/mags/coils/caps/def/fuel/anti-gel/antifreeze/ect. the dude says the batteries are good for around 12 years, and they are working on or already have batteries that will last 100 years. i think i'm pumped on this! but check you tube vid on the change over.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 12 Nov 2020 at 6:16am |
The two 'minor' problems with ANY battery powered device, especially a tractor are 1) ACTUAL runtime in the field doing WORK... 2) COST to recharge the battery pack
#1 is kinda important.Even though I don't farm, I know farmers and it's not unreasonable for them to put in 12-16 hr days to get the crops in ( IN before the rain comes.....,sigh). I seriously doubt ANY electric tractor can run like that..
#2 is REAL important. There is no way come hades or high water, that a 'simple, plug into a 120 receptacle' recharger will juice up a dead tractor battery. You need a SERIOUS charging 'station'....240 volts, 50-60 amps and time. Just look at Tesla charging options.... I know at 25c cents/KwH( my current cost) it costs a lot REAL money .
As for 'the dude says the batteries are good for around 12 years,'.... yeah right, maybe if they stay on the shelf, get used for an 1hr a day, in sunny ,warm So CAL... but NOT up here in Winter ( 4-6 months)...
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