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jeickman01 
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Joined: 24 Feb 2017
Location: Dyer, TN
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 Topic: D17 Three Point Hitch Conversion
Posted: 18 Oct 2019 at 5:30pm |
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Just installed a Cross 3 point hitch conversion on a D17 Series III. The lower end of the top link bracket is bolted to the rock shaft housing with only the 3/8 inch studs that originally fastened the pto guard. Since the top link pins right above this it seems that most of the top link load when lifting an implement is going to be on these studs. And I have a boom pole, so I may be really pushing it. Has anyone drilled these out and tapped for larger bolts? Wonder if there is enough casting thickness to support this?
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DiyDave
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Posted: 18 Oct 2019 at 5:37pm |
Beef it up, NOW, before you tear something up! It's a helluva lot easier to drill it out to say 1/2" studs, with a straight, new bracket, than later, with a straightened bent bracket! 
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jeickman01
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Location: Dyer, TN
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Posted: 18 Oct 2019 at 7:39pm |
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Increasing the bolt size won't work if the casting is thin enough to allow them to pull out a chunk of the rock shaft housing. Thinking about some sort of bracket to bypass the rock shaft housing and bolt directly to the differential housing unless someone can tell me if the rock shaft housing is thick enough in the stud area.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 19 Oct 2019 at 9:45pm |
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I have seen 1/2" Gr8 bolts installed there before, instead of those 3/8" studs. I did a drawbar for a pulling tractor with 1/2" bolts as well. Don't remember if I broke thru the casting or not, but if I did, I would have used lots of RTV silicone to seal it up and it still doesn't leak 30 yrs later.
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Sugarmaker
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Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 7:57am |
jeickman, Some pictures may help? Bigger bolts would be better if you can do it? I added my home built one to the D17 (early) and used the 3/8 studs. I assume your top bracket goes up under the seat to fasten on also? My top link (adjustment arm) is too long by about a inch or more. A real bear to get hooked up. I need to see it I can fine a shorter top link, if they make them? Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 8:22am |
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That is one of the flaws of the add-on 3pt hitch on a D-14/15/17 tractor. The rear lift housing sticks out more rearward than a series 4 model, making a shorter top link necessary, and changing the geometry of the hitch..
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 11:25am |
You should have one of these , for a top link bracket. It doesn't totally depend on the rear facing bolts to hold it. If you have studs anywhere, they should be replaced with a longer one unless you can get a full nut on the threads. 
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 20 Oct 2019 at 11:28am
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DrAllis
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Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 2:35pm |
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I even have a problem with that particular design. Given enough pull on that top link, the plate coming from the seat would be stronger if straight, not with a kink in it. That kink will yield putting more stress on those two 3/8" bolts above the PTO.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 5:52pm |
I scavenged the best parts off of several makes of 3 point hitches, for the one I have on my D-15II. I think the best toplink setup came offa a Worksaver conversion. Bolts under seat, and has a cross bar, that bolts to the fender brace, and the straight bend the Dr mentioned...
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ACinSC
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Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 5:58pm |
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Took us several tries to get a top link short enough today on the D 15 . We also had trouble with the lift not raising the harrow high enough . Thanks
Edited by ACinSC - 20 Oct 2019 at 5:59pm
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DrAllis
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Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 6:38pm |
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Great design top link brackets have three holes in them. One above and one below the one you see there.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 6:41pm |
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Yeah Dr Allis , that would work good . Thanks
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 7:04pm |
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I'd put a piece of angle on the two bolts in the lift arm housing and then weld braces from it to the piece going up under the seat.
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 9:38am |
This adapter was built by the previous owner of my D-17 SII.......the top link bracket sets back a little further but that also makes it higher. I did a little reinforcing and I also redrilled and tapped the housing for 1/2" bolts. Because he used angle iron for the pieces under the seat base and because those pieces come straight back to the top link holes, it is pretty rugged.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 11:48am |
Brian, I believe that is a better design for the conversion. Thanks for the picture! Might want to take a coup[le more from the side so we can see the area going under the seat better. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 11:50am |
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But, the top link geometry is better suited to be close to the centerline of the lifting shaft. By doing it that way, the hitch can lift the tail of the implement better when it reaches full height.
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jeickman01
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 4:26pm |
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Brian G. If I understand Dr Allis correctly your implement would lift up evenly, more level, instead of the rear of the implement lifting higher than the front because of the top link pivot being higher. Is that right? Like your design for strength but may need for top link pivot to lower.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 4:45pm |
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Either that, or make the top link connection on the implement higher. That would accomplish the same thing.
Edited by DrAllis - 21 Oct 2019 at 4:45pm
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 9:16pm |
 DrAllis wrote:
Either that, or make the top link connection on the implement higher. That would accomplish the same thing.
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Actually, I converted my brush hog from a trailer type to 3PH so I sorta built the geometry of the bush hog to fit my 3PH system.
That's the only 3PH implement I have but I can see how some other implements might not work quite as well.
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