712Shuttle Electrical Issues

Your starter is not engaging tap it lightly with a hammer and it should work    

Thanks for the answers guys. I did have to manully move the starter to get it going again. Now, I'm not getting a spark. No voltage coming from the battery to the ignition cool. Changed the condenser and points. Still nothing and frustrating. Could the voltage regulator have gone bad? Or is a possible ground issue? Battery shows 12v and so does the solenoid.

Nah, that wire is on there. I meant ignition Coil. No volts to the ignition coil. Stupid autocorrect.

Yes, the starter is no longer the issue and engine turns fine. There seems to be no voltage reaching the ignition coil on the points side of the motor.

I have found over time the grease used to lubricate the ignition switch become hardened creating a film over the contacts. Over the years there could also be an accumulation of dust and other debris.

You can first try some contact cleaner, remove the ignition switch then spray in the cleaner via the keyhole then hold the switch upside down to allow the cleaner to drip out.

Albow44 wrote: Could be, I hope so. I'll pick one up tomorrow and let you know. Thanks!

Before you do that, jumper a wire from the positive terminal of the battery the the positive side of the coil then see if the engine starts.

Albow44 wrote: Ok, not to sound like a newb or a smart ass, what's the safest way to do that? Should I be expecting it to start or not to start when the ignition is turned?

If the coil and points are good the engine will start.

I might add with the jumper wire in place you have bypassed your neutral safety switches and the seat pressure sensitive switch if your tractor was so equipped. Just make sure the transmission is in neutral and your good to go.

If the engine does start which it should with the jumper you have now narrowed the problem down to either a bad break in the  black wire coming from the ignition switch leading to the positive side of the coil or the switch itself is faulty.

If you have a meter or test light you can check for power by probing the plug attached to the ignition switch at the black wire.








Edited by rustydollar - 23 Aug 2017 at 12:23am

Albow44 wrote: So the jumper wire didn't work. Points are brand new and set at .020 and the coil should be operational according to the voltmeter reading. Still registering no volts at the coil + from battery.

Looking at the diagram above the contact points must be in  the closed position to complete the power circuit.

Did you  try starting the engine with the jumper wire connected.

Albow44 wrote: Yeah, the engine will try to turn over, but no spark at the points or plug.

Going back over your first post, your toddler left the key on with power to the coil. I suspect the primary winding in the coil burnt out.

Change the coil problem solved.

Albow44 wrote: Shouldn't there still be power going to the coil though? When I measure the wire from the battery to the + side of the coil, I don't get 12v as I should. I get nothing.

Any kid from the 50's and 60's could steal a car in less than five minutes using the jumper wire from battery to the coil.

If you connected a jumper wire to the battery that wire would be hot, connecting that wire to the positive side of the coil would energize the coil giving you ignition to run your engine.

Hot wire to coil, engine still not willing to run, your problem is between the coil and contact points. You installed new contacts so we'll eliminate those and assume the coil is bad.

Your toddler left the key on killing the battery, during those long hours with power to the coil the primary windings burnt out.

This is how a run an engine on the test bench.




Edited by rustydollar - 25 Aug 2017 at 11:39pm

Albow44 wrote: Oh yeah, I forgot about the jumper. So, there's a good chance it's the switch and the coil.

Yea by using the jumper wire we're eliminating the key switch for the time being bypassing every safety switch etc. in your mower. We're using the process of elimination to source a problem.

Since the starter still works from the key switch you can use it to turn the engine over once the jumper wire has been installed.

I'm not so sure I feel comfortable giving advice anymore.


Edited by rustydollar - 25 Aug 2017 at 11:48pm

Changed the coil as stated above and it worked, for one mowing. After that, wouldn't start again or even try to turn over. Replaced the coil again, the wiring harness and the ignition switch. Still the same thing. When I turn the key, nothing. Battery appears to be fully charged, reading 12 volts. I'm once again at a loss. Any advice is truly apppreciated.
Thanks

Yeah, battery is good. I do see what appears to be a ground wire that attaches the same plate as the ampmeter, but doesn't seem to fit anywhere else. It's under the dash to the left of the ignition switch.

Albow44 wrote: Yeah, battery is good. I do see what appears to be a ground wire that attaches the same plate as the ampmeter, but doesn't seem to fit anywhere else. It's under the dash to the left of the ignition switch.

What color is that loose wire. If its a ground wire as you say then there's two possibilities the power lift switch and the hour meter both have grounded wires under the instrument panel.

Its not uncommon for some deceitful person to disconnect the hour meter to keep the hours showing low for a latter sale.

The again maybe your tractor never shipped from the factory with an hour meter and that loose wire is surplus. The wiring harness's from the factory are made to accommodate all the factory options whether their installed or not.

From the starter solenoid there's a red wire leading to the ammeter, somewhere between the ammeter and solenoid there's a circuit breaker attached to that wire in-line..

Bad circuit breaker in the red wire you wont have power anywhere except the battery lug on the solenoid. Beyond that nothing.

Now that your familiar with jumper wires, male up another one long enough the temporarily replace the red wire connected to the starter solenoid to the ammeter. If the tractor responds with the temp jumper wire in place you'll know the circuit breaker has gone bad.




Edited by rustydollar - 13 Sep 2017 at 11:08pm