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Small tractor question

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Reed(UT) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reed(UT) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Small tractor question
    Posted: 28 May 2010 at 10:52am
I have a small diesel tractor (32hp Yanmar) that started overheating on me. I cant figure it out. The radiator is fairly new and seems to be getting good flow. The water pump was replaced a couple hundred hours ago, and it still is tight, and the impeller looks good. I back-flushed the engine, and seemed to get good flow through it when I pushed water through it with a hose. The tractor has no thermostat. Fan belt is tight. Hoses don't seem to be collapsing. Oil doesn't seem to have any water in it, but could a head gasket still be gone?

I have had this tractor for years, and it only recently started heating up.

I have also checked the temperature with a hand-held thermometer, and verified it is indeed heating up.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
2 WD45s, 190XT III, 72 AllCrop, Bunch of snap-coupler stuff. Looking for a B and CA
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Goose View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goose Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2010 at 11:01am
Could it have gotten an air lock in it for some reason?
 
What was the coolant level before you drained and flushed it?
 
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Gatz in NE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gatz in NE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2010 at 11:14am
Correct anitfreeze mixture?
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Reed(UT) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reed(UT) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2010 at 11:20am
I have tried a variety of coolant mixture ratios, right now it should be about 50-50, and made sure it is full.

Still overheats

I am pretty sure it doesn't have an air lock in it, but will check this weekend.



Edited by Reed(UT) - 28 May 2010 at 11:21am
2 WD45s, 190XT III, 72 AllCrop, Bunch of snap-coupler stuff. Looking for a B and CA
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Gatz in NE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gatz in NE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2010 at 12:34pm
50/50 should be right.
 
Do you see any white smoke in the exhaust ?
If you could borrow a pump-up type tester or take it someplace that has one, that might tell you if there's a head gasket out or some other leakage problem.
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2010 at 3:12pm
Radiators can get a solid cover of dirt on the outside that can pretty much stop all cooling capacity. Secially if they have paint on the fins. If the inside seems OK, the problem could be on the outside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firebrick43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2010 at 9:52pm
I have seen a head gasket leak once or twice that pumps gas into the water jacket but coolant would not leak into the oil or cylinders.  A pressure check guage on the radiator will typically show this.    Also check the radiator cap to make sure it builds pressure to 5-7 psi. 

I have also seen blocks plugged up from running creek water or something similar and also seen radiators/blocks plugged from mixing dexcool/lifetime coolant and standard glycol coolant. 
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Stan IL&TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2010 at 8:28am
If the thermostat has been removed then you may want to install a new stat.  As I understand it if too much flow is going through the radiator then the fluid will not have enough time to drop it's heat and the engine will over heat.  Strange as it sounds.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TramwayGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2010 at 10:22am
Put a good thermostat back in.  Almost all modern engines are bypass type, and without a thermostat, the coolant has no direction and will just circulate within the engine.
Secondly, make sure dust and debris is cleaned off the radiator.  My small tractor is affected greatly by dirt on the outside of the radiator.
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Reed(UT) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reed(UT) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2010 at 10:34am
The tractor is about 30 years old, and has never had a t-stat (wasn't designed for one). The radiator is clean inside and out, too. I will pressure check the rad. as suggested and let you know what I come up with. I also checked the top of the radiator, vs the bottom, and there was about 20 degrees different, so I think I am getting flow through it.

What is crazy, is I used the tractor with a two-row planter this week and it never heated up (the load was very light). Could the block be partially plugged somewhere?



2 WD45s, 190XT III, 72 AllCrop, Bunch of snap-coupler stuff. Looking for a B and CA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firebrick43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2010 at 12:12pm
Yes it could be.  I have seen blocks plugged solid with mud/crap/rust.  This is not typical though of engines used with antifreeze, but cheap owners that use bad tap or even creek water.  If its been a long time though since the anti freeze has been changed the anti corrosion properties might have been exhausted and rust could be an issue.  Remove a freeze plug and see?  They are cheap to replace.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Breeze Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2010 at 10:35pm
Reed, seems like most of the yanmar tractors have plastic cooling fans. If it is plastic, have you checked it?  Maybe wont run hot at idle or relatively low RPMs, but when revved up to working RPM or at least half throttle does it do it then? Sometimes the older plastic fans tend to slip when bad at higher RPMs. Had a problem with my  ym2200 D getting hot, my pump was slipping and so was the fan. We had radiator cleaned, new cap and hoses, water pump replaced with new metal fan.  No problems since.  Hope it helps, good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote robinson_trucking Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2011 at 11:33pm
That is correct! Having no thermostat will not let the coolant cool long enough in the radiator before recirculating back through the engine. Causing overheating problems !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kurzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 7:30am
My manual says it has a factory thermostat!! I say check fan belt and take radiator out  for good flushing.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 8:48am
if there is no thermostat, what controls the temp ?
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 1:48pm
Does it have a fan clutch? A radiator cap not holding pressure can cause it to boil in the engine and over heat. Thermostats aren't always in the outlet. If there isn't one there, it's in the inlet.
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 2:28pm
With all the comments about overheating because of no thermostat, it makes me wonder how any tractors ever ran back in the 20's 30's and 40's when a lot of them didn't have thermostats or pressurized radiators. 
 If you take a bucket full of boiling water and dump it through a radiator that has a fan sucking air through it, the water will cool off no matter how fast it runs through the radiator. If there is build-up inside the radiator which causes minimal contact with the cores, it will cool less. If the outside is painted or covered with dirt it will also cool less.
  A thermostat is not in -place to slow the flow of the coolant through the radiator. It is there to stop the flow, until the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dadsdozerhd5b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 4:31pm
the thermostat is there to regulate the flow, stop it when it is cold and open when it is hot. as the engine heats up, the thermostat opens and closes alot until reaching operating temp. it also is restricting the coolant flow as the hole coolant flows by it is smaller than if it was not there. i suspect a bad thermostat. could also be the fuel injectors wearing and straight streaming instead of atomizing the fuel. does it smoke or lug at all?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russ SCPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 7:13pm
Interesting place to look might be have you changed fuel filters? Or fuel blends?  No possibility of having # 1 diesel blend? A diesel that is running lean will get HOT fast, esp under load.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2011 at 7:56am
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

With all the comments about overheating because of no thermostat, it makes me wonder how any tractors ever ran back in the 20's 30's and 40's when a lot of them didn't have thermostats or pressurized radiators. 
 
Charlie we have global warming now.  Way cooler back then.  LOL
1957 WD45 dad's first AC

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