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Shoehorning big packings into cylinder

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doctorcorey View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 8:29pm
I'm repac king one of my lift Rams on my 7g, and wondered if any of you'all have any tips for inserting the ram back into the tube without damaging the packing. The last one I did took Herculean effort to assemble, and I'd like to save myself some trouble. I'm leaving the tube on the tractor to do this, hauling the ram back to my shop to repack. Most of the videos I've run across don't show the narrator actually inserting the ram into the tube; it is just magically assembled at the end of the show, seems like some sort of slip ring might work? Corey in Lincoln, MO.

Edited by doctorcorey - 07 Jul 2015 at 8:32pm
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Eric B View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 12:50am
I should be doing a job like that soon myself...what would you think of trying the type of ratchet style collar for installing pistons into engine blocks? Once you succeed by whatever method please post it here...how you did it.
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 3:32am
Doc

When I did the rams on our FA 10 (2 blade and tilt) I pointed the cylinder up with the piston assembly on top of it. And then bumped the whole thing on the concrete till it went in.

Now I describe a FA 10 as the biggest of the "one man dozers" in that one man can lift most things like this (blade assemblies not included if anyone wants to nitpick).

No idea if you can do this.

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doctorcorey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doctorcorey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 7:07am
These tubes have a deep bore for the threaded cap, probably 4" deep , that makes it difficult to use a clamp around the packing. I'm having to do these about horizontally, with the rods supported by straps, line it up and then try to push the ram in by hand. I may have damaged this packing before because in had to push, pry, wobble and hammer the rods in. I doubt they do it this way in a shop, and I think there's probably some tricks I'm missing. If I were working on a 10" ram there would be no way a man could reassemble it without some sort of jig or press.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chock2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 9:22pm
I am putting new seals on all the cylinders of my 1958 HD6G.  I have the cylinders removed from the machine.  I made a frame from 3 inch channel iron that allows me to use a 12 ton hydraulic jack to push the rams with new seals into the cylinders.  I have used it on one cylinder and it works swell.  Another important lesson learned is that the V-ring pack on the ram, when assembled can be compressed so that it is too large to fit into the cylinder and you will ruin it by the time you realize that it is too large.  With the cylinder still on the machine see if there is a way to fabricate a frame over it and use the Jack, a lot less work than a big hammer!!
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doctorcorey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doctorcorey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 9:40pm
Interesting. I used some aftermarket pickings when I did mine 3 years ago, as for some reason, the Agco parts were not available. I'm interested in your comment about the v pack being compressed too far; I thought that the piston halves squeezed the packing to the proper thickness. Are you saying that one must judge if the fit is too tight and "adjust",shim, etc the packings to get a reasonable fit? I am going with Agco-Allis packings this time around and maybe they'll be a better fit. Thanks

Edited by doctorcorey - 08 Jul 2015 at 9:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 9:46pm
Originally posted by doctorcorey doctorcorey wrote:

These tubes have a deep bore for the threaded cap, probably 4" deep , that makes it difficult to use a clamp around the packing. I'm having to do these about horizontally, with the rods supported by straps, line it up and then try to push the ram in by hand. I may have damaged this packing before because in had to push, pry, wobble and hammer the rods in. I doubt they do it this way in a shop, and I think there's probably some tricks I'm missing. If I were working on a 10" ram there would be no way a man could reassemble it without some sort of jig or press.
How hard did you find it to be when removing the threaded caps? Did you have to heat the barrel before it let go?
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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doctorcorey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doctorcorey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 9:50pm
Eric, I used a big drift pin to crack them loose,then a big pipe wrench to hook the tangs like a spanner. They were quite easy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 10:11pm
doctorcorey

I think you'll find with aftermarket V-packs there will be a set of dimensions including width between the piston flanges.

Putting it together with space between the piston halves seems like inviting yourself to another go at it not too much later IMO.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chock2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2015 at 8:02pm
The vee packing set is aftermarket, assembled by a local industrial supply company.  We didn't have much to go by on the type of packing rings, since most of them were gone.  Remnants of 1 poly or urethane ring and 2 slivers of conventional rings.  According to their book they couldn't get the exact compressed height with our pack using 2 urethane rings, so we went a little taller, thinking the conventional rings would compress.  That was wrong and destroyed the set of rings.  On the second set we went a little under, left 1 conventional ring out, I think it was 0.050 inch under the installed height and it went in.  It still took the hydraulic jack to push the ram in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chock2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2015 at 8:10pm
On removing the cylinder caps, I fabricated a spanner that bolted together with 2 inch X 3/8 inch thick flat stock.  Where it bolts together with 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts, the bolt heads align with the notches in the cylinder cap.  I used a 5 foot handle to turn the spanner.  3 cylinder caps came loose, one stubborn one was in position where I was lifting the handle to loosen it, so with a little help from my engine hoist (2 ton hoist) it came loose.  No heating needed.  I loosened the caps before removing the cylinders from the crawler. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doctorcorey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2015 at 10:47pm
Originally posted by Chock2 Chock2 wrote:

The vee packing set is aftermarket, assembled by a local industrial supply company.  We didn't have much to go by on the type of packing rings, since most of them were gone.  Remnants of 1 poly or urethane ring and 2 slivers of conventional rings.  According to their book they couldn't get the exact compressed height with our pack using 2 urethane rings, so we went a little taller, thinking the conventional rings would compress.  That was wrong and destroyed the set of rings.  On the second set we went a little under, left 1 conventional ring out, I think it was 0.050 inch under the installed height and it went in.  It still took the hydraulic jack to push the ram in.
        Thanks for these details. When I changed my packings before, I naively assumed that the parts were drop-in. I had to pound the rods with a chunk of oak, then when they were far enough in, screw on the caps and use the machine's hydraulics to pull them the rest of the way. They lasted for quite a while but burnt up eventually. I've got agco parts this time, and a lot more experience in knowing when trouble is brewing. As soon as I get my pole barn erected, I'm going to tackle there Rams and water pump. Thanks again all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2015 at 4:37pm
Hydraulic shop I deal with from time to time wraps the packing with stainless steel shim sheet stock, get that into the main bore past the threads then presses the assembly together until the shim sheet falls away, packing is then fully in bore.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2015 at 8:53pm
Thanks everybody...some good learning curves in this thread!
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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