D17 serries 1 and D15 serries 1 question

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   I have a D17 serries 1 with power steering.  I broke the front casting where the pin that holds the front end on fits.  Not to suprised it was worn badly and I put my loader from the D15 on the D17 last summer when the D15 had a blown motor. 
My question is the D15 serries 1 has a good front counter weight i know it is tight I had it sleeved a decade ago when I rebuilt the tractor.  I know I can not swap the entire counter weight but can I split the weight and swap just the bottom part with the broken casting?  I know the D17 weight is taller the bolt spacing on the frame rails makes that clear.  I am just hoping maybe the bottom section of the casting is the same part? Both tractors are pretty much stuck in the snow at the moment not real easy to work pn but I am trying to come up with a plan or figure out if I need to be looking for a parts tractor. 

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Dan73 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6057	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dan73 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: D17 serries 1 and D15 serries 1 question Posted: Yesterday at 12:41pm
	I have a D17 serries 1 with power steering. I broke the front casting where the pin that holds the front end on fits. Not to suprised it was worn badly and I put my loader from the D15 on the D17 last summer when the D15 had a blown motor. My question is the D15 serries 1 has a good front counter weight i know it is tight I had it sleeved a decade ago when I rebuilt the tractor. I know I can not swap the entire counter weight but can I split the weight and swap just the bottom part with the broken casting? I know the D17 weight is taller the bolt spacing on the frame rails makes that clear. I am just hoping maybe the bottom section of the casting is the same part? Both tractors are pretty much stuck in the snow at the moment not real easy to work pn but I am trying to come up with a plan or figure out if I need to be looking for a parts tractor.

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Steve A Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 12 Apr 2012 Location: NLP Mi Points: 272	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve A Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 3 hours 27 minutes ago at 4:53pm
	I don't have a definite answer, but from what I'm seeing in the parts books the numbers are the same. If it were me, I'd take measurements and try it. That part is simple enough to change, took about 30 min to take it out and put it back. My D17 is worn in a similar fashion--not broken though-- and I fabbed a steel block and welded it in with nickle rod to correct it. Will probably wind up at a machine shop in the future or hunting for used one with less wear.

Dan73 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6057	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dan73 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 3 hours 22 minutes ago at 4:58pm
	Thanks Steve. I didn't think to try and find it in the parts book. I was thinking it is an assembly like some modern parts books I guess. They definitely look identical from what I can measure with then on the tractors. I will have to get the two tractors where I can access them to get the parts off. Winter time is hard without a shop. I will post here when I get it sorted out and let everyone know.

Steve A Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 12 Apr 2012 Location: NLP Mi Points: 272	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve A Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 3 hours 11 minutes ago at 5:09pm
	The "Achilles heel" of that era of axle setup. You would have thought they would have straddled them. A lot of brands did it that way though.

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 90069	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 1 hour 47 minutes ago at 6:33pm
	i dont know exactly what you have.. but ALLIS used a lot of "CAST STEEL" parts and not "CAST IRON".... You can easily weld a broken CAST STEEL PART and hand grind as needed... You just need to taper the crack on both sides to a VEE shape.. i clamp the parts together with vice grips / clamps / strap to hold in place.. Warm things up in the general area to 150- 200 degrees with a propane torch or xxx..... Really you just dont want the parts to be 20-30 degrees... extra heat is GOOD, but high heat is not needed... I weld everything up with 7018 low hydrogen rod.. works great. If your not much of a welder, talk to a local guy.... Cast iron when you grind it gives off orange mini sparks..... CAST STEEL grinds just like steel... big red sparks.... if its Cast STEEL, it will weld up nice..
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22616	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 1 hour 32 minutes ago at 6:48pm
	I know for a fact that a D-15 series 2 "front support" bolts right up to a D-17 chassis and side frames. Nothing is compromised, except the power steering ram area is different. So as far as your wide front end pivot hole casting, I don't know why a series 1 D-15 says it is different. Maybe the four attaching bolt holes are 1/2" diameter instead of 5/8" diameter ??