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Allis-B 1938 |
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RayJay420
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Joined: 03 Jan 2026 Location: Madison, WI Points: 17 |
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Topic: Allis-B 1938Posted: 15 hours 39 minutes ago at 2:34pm |
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I think 1937 no generator,12 volts, Maginto no spark yet
Tran. Oil in cyd. Any thought |
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Gary(WI)
Orange Level
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Location: WI Points: 1007 |
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Posted: 13 hours 11 minutes ago at 5:02pm |
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Is it for sale or ??
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RayJay420
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Joined: 03 Jan 2026 Location: Madison, WI Points: 17 |
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Posted: 12 hours 51 minutes ago at 5:22pm |
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Not for sale, just wanted to know about lifts,ram under seat plus bar behind seat.
Also how to test Maginto. Newbe to tractor workings |
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 89558 |
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Posted: 12 hours 11 minutes ago at 6:02pm |
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there should be two levers below your right butt cheek... The RIGID one attached to the differential case will engage the PTO and the hydraulic pump.( lift UP to engage).. Once the PTO is spinning, then the other lever ( sometimes attached to the bottom of the seat frame), will stroke the hydraullic valve and send oil to the cylinder, or open a port and let it bleed back to sump..
If tractor has been setting along time, the POINT inside the mag might be corroded and need cleaned.... also possible that the condenser is bad inside the mag... depending on what mag you have, you can screw up the timing of the mag gears by pulling the cover off.... you need a little more direction to remove, repair, reinstall and time the mag.
Edited by steve(ill) - 11 hours 59 minutes ago at 6:14pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 89558 |
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Posted: 12 hours 5 minutes ago at 6:08pm |
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this little girl gives a good presentation on how to inspect and repair a mag.. Look at the 19 minute mark to see the gear timing INSIDE the mag.... You might be able to remove the plastic cap and clean the point while on the tractor... if you pay attention to those two gears.... probably dont need to do anything to the IMPULSE and spring on the front end right now... get some spark first... see if the coil is BLACK ( old original) or red ( newer version)..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 89558 |
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Posted: 11 hours 58 minutes ago at 6:15pm |
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serial number is by the shift lever... give that and we can tell you the year.. Probably not a 1937.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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RayJay420
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Joined: 03 Jan 2026 Location: Madison, WI Points: 17 |
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Posted: 10 hours 57 minutes ago at 7:16pm |
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Thanks for great info!
I need some locals to help me. Ser # I see the B the next two # ? Then284 I will the #s right someday. I want # off motor too . Thanks again Are the lift parts worth anything?. Should I leave ram on? |
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 89558 |
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Posted: 7 hours 8 minutes ago at 11:05pm |
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there might be a horizontal rod about 1.5 inch diameter with two lift arms bolted to it behind the seat.. That is called the ROCK SHAFT... there will be 1 or 2 cylinders mounted horizontal under the seat the push against the two arms on the shaft... and you will have a huydraulic pump mounted on the right rear corner of the PTO housing.... yes, all of those parts are worth a few dollars,,, maybe a couple hundred for everything, depending on condition..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 89558 |
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Posted: 7 hours 2 minutes ago at 11:11pm |
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starting in 1938 they built about 10- 20,000 tractors per year... so those first two digits are important... at least the FIRST one... you span several years with a 5 digit serial number...
The engine serial number might be on the left side bell housing where it attaches to the motor.... if it is OLDER it will be on the back of the motor block about where the HEAD bolts to the block.... that number can also narrow down the manufacture date to a couple year spread..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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