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460 loader control valve options

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farmtechguy View Drop Down
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    Posted: 24 Dec 2025 at 10:36am
Greetings,

I acquired a 160 diesel with (I believe) an OEM 460 loader the other day. After using the loader a bit it's apparent I have an internal hydraulic leak as the bucket slowly sinks with a load in it. 

I'm inclined to think it's in the control valve. When I go to lift the bucket, if I only open the valve ever so slightly, the loader drops. Once I open the valve enough, it lifts just fine.

My question is: couldn't I just replace the valve with a cheaper universal spool valve from ebay? I'm sure the cylinders could use a seal job as well.

Your input is much appreciated!


Edited by farmtechguy - 24 Dec 2025 at 10:38am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ac160 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2025 at 11:29am
Try changing the packing in the cylinders first.  I have a 460 loader on a 6070 that leaked down with or without a load, and new packing solved that issue.   There were two versions of the 460 loader, one for a 160 and the other for the 6060 - 6080.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2025 at 1:08pm
I would agree start with the cylinders first. But there is a no tools required way to check. When you first start the tractor run the loader up and let it leak down a number of times. As it is lowering put your hand on it, the bypassing oil will create heat. If you cannot feel any warming of the cylinder, then the valve is your leak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmtechguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2025 at 1:53pm
Thanks for the replies. I picked up a 4x5 round bale and definitely have gland seal leaks on two of the cylinders. I'll do the test you describe here in a little bit and report back.

Do you guys think an internal cylinder leak could be the cause of the "dead" spot when opening the control valves? It's pretty bad when I it loaded up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2025 at 9:00am
I'm having a similar problem with a tractor and loader I recently bought.Except the loader doesn't leak down when sitting but when in use when a I pull the lever to raise the loader it'll drop some before it starts to go up.I'm thinking its the valve but maybe not.Taking it to a shop near Harrisonburg VA they are very good on hydraulics.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 6:06am
Some hydraulic valves have a "load check" valve built into them. This is supposed to eliminate drop first and then lift situation.  Some of these load checks are only on one side of the spool, meaning if your lever operates backwards to lift, the load check isn't working on the load side, but the lowering side. Again, not all hydraulic valves are equipped with load checks. Your results may vary.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 9:10pm
Did you by chance buy the 160 in Orange Va? I missed out on that one. As they say a day late and a dollar short.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmtechguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 2025 at 12:25pm
Makes sense. This appears to be an OEM spool valve. The check valves would certainly be built-in right? Not having the ability to feather would be really annoying.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmtechguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 2025 at 12:34pm
So it appears I have leaky cylinders. Considering that new ones can be found pretty cheap online, could I get away with a 2" bore on the lift cylinders? The OEM ones seem to be an odd ball size and I can't find new ones in the exact bore/length combination.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 2025 at 6:57pm
You should match what is there are you will affect the functions of you loader. Reducing cylinder bore reduces lifting capacity. Reducing OAL and/or stroke reduces lifting height. Reducing the rod diameter can lead to bending rods.

Why not rebuild the cylinders the loader?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 2025 at 7:19pm
Having the cylinders repacked is your best option. Staying with what was designed for the loader is the correct way to do it. A qualified hydraulic shop should have no problem doing that. I have multiple shops locally that can handle it. I have that very loader for my 160. Is your loader driven by a pump off the front of the crankshaft or off the remotes on the back of the tractor?

Edited by AC720Man - 30 Dec 2025 at 7:21pm
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmtechguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 2025 at 8:46pm
I'm probably going to have the cylinders rebuilt. Reason I was looking at new cylinders is that most of the shops in my area wanted a small fortune per cylinder to rebuild. One was almost double the cost of a new cylinder. I found a place a bit further away that gave me a reasonable quote

The cylinders I was looking at had larger bores than the OEM ones.


Edited by farmtechguy - 30 Dec 2025 at 8:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmtechguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 2025 at 8:47pm
AC720Man: It's the version with the pump driven off the crankshaft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2025 at 12:03am
That’s the best type to have, separate pump instead of off the rear remotes. The hydraulics on One-Sixty’s(letter tractors)can be problematic at times. The later model 160’s(number tractors) were improved but also have their issues. Mine occasionally will not lift the lift arms if it sets for some time, like over the winter unless I’m using it occasionally. Bleeding the rear remotes as I cycle the remotes clears up the issue as it appears to have air in the system. Just some info for you in case you’re new to the 160 model. Make sure you keep the hydraulic filter clean and with good quality 821 hydraulic oil. Neat tractor, unfortunately they are difficult to get parts for. The cleanable hydraulic filter is NLA.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmtechguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2025 at 9:54am
I am new to the 160. In-fact it's my first AC, with most of my experience being on IH/Farmalls.

Does the tractors "native" hydraulic pump power the power-steering? I'm having issues with that as well where it's really stiff and difficult to turn at slow speeds. Plenty of fluid albeit it seems a bit thin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2025 at 11:24am
Power steering is a separate pump between the frame members up near the front of the engine. Is this an early One-Sixty or a 160 number tractor? The 160 is the later model. It could be low on fluid, dirty filter, or loose drive belt. Pain in the butt to adjust the belt.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmtechguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 hours 48 minutes ago at 5:38pm
It's a One-Sixty. There's a lot of oil around the power steering components, but the reservoir is still full to the top. Belt seems like it could be tighter but doesn't seem loose enough to be slipping.

I wonder if the cylinder is shot. The power steering pump draws of the same reservoir as the tractors hydraulic pump correct? I'll double check the filter but it seems ok. The three point hitch works flawlessly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 hours 28 minutes ago at 5:58pm
There is no serial breakdown of these import tractors, so depending on how close of a run it is to the 160 I can’t tell you for positive where the other screen filters are. Transmission filter could be under the steering wheel or to the right of the seat. That’s the one that is NLA. They were built in France, hence the reason for difficulty finding parts. The power steering/hydraulic tank should be in front of the radiator on the right side. Replaceable filter in there, 821 power fluid, keep it in between the lines and do not over fill.

Edited by AC720Man - 17 hours 27 minutes ago at 5:59pm
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmtechguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 hours 16 minutes ago at 6:10pm
The previous owner filled the reservoir with I believe 10w-30 as he said it's all he had on hand. If the rear lift is functioning fine wouldn't the culprit most likely be the pump or cylinder?

There does appear to be leaks on the power steering hoses, but not bad enough that it would cause it to be stiff. It steers as if the steering cylinder is not applying any assistance/force. Really have to muscle it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 hours 1 minutes ago at 6:25pm
First thing I do when I purchase a tractor is drain and replace all fluids and filters. Mix match of fluids is not a good thing! A leak can be a nuisance but not likely your reason for stiff steering. A loader adds weight, make sure proper air pressure is in the front tires. Does it steer hard as the tractor is moving? If abused(overload the loader or bounce it thru the field) they will break the tractor at the loader front brackets or at the bell housing. Normal use and it will be fine. A service manual is extremely helpful and a good investment especially if you plan to keep it for a long period of time. The steering should be easy, change of all fluids as I said above would be needed before proceeding to diagnose it properly

Edited by AC720Man - 16 hours 58 minutes ago at 6:28pm
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom51 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 33 minutes ago at 9:53pm
Raise the front wheels of the ground and see if it steers easier 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 hours 12 minutes ago at 11:14pm
By the way, welcome to the forum and the Allis Chalmers family. There is a huge amount of knowledge on this forum whom are glad to answer questions. Although Allis Chalmers went out of business 40 years ago, AGCO and many suppliers still manufacture parts for AC tractors and equipment. Allis Chalmers has a huge following, they were well built machines. Although the ONE-Sixty was built in France, AC had a lot of input in the design. The hood and fenders were from the AC 170 tractor. Most manufactures imported lower horsepower tractors to try to compete for that 40 hp market. Cant beat the Perkins diesel for cold weather starting, torque, and fuel sipping. Although it has some quirks, it’s a good tractor that does a lot of things well.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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