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190 Gas Issues |
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shattercane
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Joined: 23 Jul 2011 Location: Aurora, KS Points: 305 |
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Topic: 190 Gas IssuesPosted: 23 Jul 2017 at 3:52pm |
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I had my 190 purring like a kitten for a while, square baled with it for about 5 hours in 102 degree heat with no issues. Wire balled up on day 2 with similar temps let it idle while I fixed my baler issue baled for about 100 yds and it started sputtering out and died. I pulled the carb off and cleaned it out back at the shop, put it back on and the same issue persisted. I could keep it alive by applying the choke, but not for long as it flooded shortly thereafter. It also did the same thing first thing the next morning so I don't think it is a vapor lock issue. I tested and replaced the condenser (old one tested fine but I'm all about throwing parts at problems) no change. I tested the coil which appeared to have the proper ohms unless they are changing when it gets hot. I also cleaned the fuel tank out to the best of my abilities before putting her in the field. The fuel pump is also new. I can unhook the fuel line and it appears that there is ample fuel being provided. Does anyone have any ideas that my get me back to throwing bales?
Thanks, Travis
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29 L Case, 37 CC Case,40 A-C allcrop 40, 43 B Allis Chalmers, 50 DC Case, 54 WD-45 WF, 67 190 Gas
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sherman
Bronze Level
Joined: 18 Oct 2009 Points: 22 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2017 at 4:47pm |
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I had the same issue drive me nuts..... did you clean out between the seat and the fuel line where it attaches to the carb? I would put a clear inline fuel filter where you can see it easily. if its empty when trouble starts you found your problem! mine had a restriction in the tank and it would flow fine and then stop. hitting choke helps it get gas..... but then too much. mine would only run 30-45 seconds nice and then miss and puke black smoke and then run fine again. when it dies next time check for spark too... the clear filter showed it was still not getting enough gas... there are two sumps on that fuel tank, fuel should come out at a very fast rate. you can shine a mirror in the tank to look for debris also. good luck. I am thinking fuel as it ran so well before...... all that sloshing around knocked something loose. I found pine needles all nicely packed together above each drain! had to unscrew each sediment bowl housing....
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shattercane
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Joined: 23 Jul 2011 Location: Aurora, KS Points: 305 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2017 at 7:13pm |
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Thanks Sherman,
I intend to do the filter soon, I've got a new line from the pump to the carb and both sediment bowls are clean as are the screens above the bowls but I am certainly not ruling the fuel flow out by any means though. I know my carb is well used but didn't get much of a change while spraying carb cleaner on the butterfly shaft while it was dying. |
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29 L Case, 37 CC Case,40 A-C allcrop 40, 43 B Allis Chalmers, 50 DC Case, 54 WD-45 WF, 67 190 Gas
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DougG
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 8393 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2017 at 8:05pm |
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Mine does that too when hot, let it cool down a little and good to go,,,,
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JimWenigOH
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NC Ohio Points: 1203 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2017 at 8:36pm |
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Which carb do you have, Holley or ??
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2017 at 8:45pm |
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An ohmmeter check of a coil won't tell if there are a few shorted turns in the secondary, but a few shorted turns will kill the spark. The best test for a coil is to connect a wire to the high voltage socket and set it about 3/8 to 1/2" from the negative primary post. Connect +12 volts to the positive primary post and the -12 volt to the negative post one of those connections with a switch. A condenser across the switch will make a fatter blue spark. Or with it on the tractor and wired, just change the high voltage wire to that one with the gap to ground and with the cap off the distributor and the engine turned so the points are closed, turn on the ignition voltage and pry the points open with a screwdriver (or a piece of plastic). With a good condenser the spark should have no trouble being a half inch long and fat blue. With a bad condenser the spark will be skinny and yellow. Spark occurs when the primary power circuit is opened.
Gerald J. |
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Gary Burnett
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3140 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2017 at 9:03pm |
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Yep I'd change the condenser first.
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shattercane
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Joined: 23 Jul 2011 Location: Aurora, KS Points: 305 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2017 at 9:37pm |
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I have the bendix/zenith carb, I have a new condenser on right now and a new coil to try which if it is the coil, I will be asking a follow up question of what causes coils to fail as that one has less than ten run hours on it. I did have a battery drain issue which was solved with a new regulator but not sure if that could have affected my coil. I just can't believe that something from China would fail so quickly.
Edited by shattercane - 23 Jul 2017 at 9:42pm |
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29 L Case, 37 CC Case,40 A-C allcrop 40, 43 B Allis Chalmers, 50 DC Case, 54 WD-45 WF, 67 190 Gas
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Roger (NE)
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Joined: 14 Oct 2010 Location: Nebraska Points: 186 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2017 at 9:45pm |
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Coils can do some weird things. If you have something else with a twelve volt coil to try you can easily rule that out if it acts the same way.
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shattercane
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Joined: 23 Jul 2011 Location: Aurora, KS Points: 305 |
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Posted: 25 Jul 2017 at 11:09pm |
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Well, it appears this problem is solved for now. Tried a new coil and she purred for about ten minutes. I have also lost the low idle dying that has always been an issue with her. Thank you all for your help!
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29 L Case, 37 CC Case,40 A-C allcrop 40, 43 B Allis Chalmers, 50 DC Case, 54 WD-45 WF, 67 190 Gas
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29817 |
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Posted: 26 Jul 2017 at 8:08am |
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Mexico coils are better than China coils and I don't know if there are USA coils anymore. I bought a new Chinese coil some years back and it was no good right out of the package. The first and last Chines coil I ever bought.
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