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HemiEd 
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Location: missouri
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 Topic: My 1948 C
Posted: 06 May 2017 at 4:24pm |
A few years ago I inherited my Dad's old C that came with his land outside of Wichita, Kansas in 1968.
It was partially apart as Dad had wiring and fuel tank issues. Nothing major.
My immediate goal was to get it moving under it's own power and that happened today! Then decide what to do next. I live on a hill, the brakes are poor but it idled up the hill and backed into the parking space just fine. 
So far, I put a new wiring harness on it, New HL and kill switch, changed oil&filter, new rubber on the radiator hoses, temp gauge, rebuilt carb, disassembled and cleaned starter.
Two gas tanks and they are both humble.
I have a kill switch question I posted in an old thread, but thought I should say hello. I used to restore Mopars and drag raced for a while but this is my first tractor. Thanks in advance for the help.
I doubt if I can post pictures yet but have some.
Edited by HemiEd - 06 May 2017 at 4:27pm
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CrestonM
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Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
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Posted: 06 May 2017 at 4:34pm |
Glad you were able to get your Dad's tractor! I'd hang onto a family tractor regardless of color (even if it were the wrong shade of green, Lol)
By two gas tanks, do you mean it has the small under-the-hood tank on the right side? If so, you have a kerosene tractor. The small tank is for starting and stopping on gas, and the big tank is for kerosene. I don't know how common they are, but I have a B with the starter gas tank, and it had the original Kerosene pistons in it until last summer. I think they're kinda neat. Use it as an emergency fuel reserve if need be lol
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HemiEd
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Location: missouri
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Posted: 06 May 2017 at 5:11pm |
Thank you for your response.
I was pretty unclear on the gas tanks, my apologies. No, I got two tanks with it. Dad had tried that internal epoxy on one and the other one had been brazed, welded and epoxied on the bottom. Both are due to rust out from water sitting in them for a while.
I ended up cleaning the latter one up best I could, whizzed off all the old epoxy and reapplied JB weld. It seems to be holding short term.
I did put a new sediment bowl on it that works very well.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 06 May 2017 at 7:24pm |
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Welcome to the AC forum Ed! Its funny how us old Drag Racers wind up messin' round' wit' Tractors. (Cheaper!) I think you should hang a Hemi in your C. That would look COOL I think. A Wedge motor would work to.... LOL! Great to hear you got your Dad's old C model runnin' again. Most excellent! Congrat's!
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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HemiEd
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Posted: 06 May 2017 at 7:28pm |
 Steve in NJ wrote:
Welcome to the AC forum Ed! Its funny how us old Drag Racers wind up messin' round' wit' Tractors. (Cheaper!) I think you should hang a Hemi in your C. That would look COOL I think. A Wedge motor would work to.... LOL! Great to hear you got your Dad's old C model runnin' again. Most excellent! Congrat's!
Steve@B&B
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Thanks Steve!
Can you point me in the right direction to learn why my magneto doesn't kill when grounded?
Thanks so much in advance.
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 06 May 2017 at 8:13pm |
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HemiEd, welcome to the Forum! Interesting question about the mag on your C. Assuming that you are grounding the kill post, perhaps the internal connection from the post is faulty?
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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HemiEd
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Location: missouri
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Posted: 07 May 2017 at 5:40am |
Dave(inMA) wrote:
HemiEd, welcome to the Forum! Interesting question about the mag on your C. Assuming that you are grounding the kill post, perhaps the internal connection from the post is faulty? |
Thank you Dave. I think you are probably right. I have never messed with mags and was kind of hesitant to dig into it without checking here first. I will pull the cap off and see what is going on. I have two spares that Dad had accumulated, but this one starts the tractor instantly so I don't want to mess that up.
Edited by HemiEd - 07 May 2017 at 5:43am
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Dusty MI
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Posted: 07 May 2017 at 7:37am |
HemiEd, Steve-NJ is the best one to answer that question. But I think that there is a wire inside the mag that is hooked to the ground screw. Check and see if it might have come unhooked.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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HemiEd
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Posted: 07 May 2017 at 8:50am |
Dusty MI wrote:
HemiEd,Steve-NJ is the best one to answer that question. But I think that there is a wire inside the mag that is hooked to the ground screw. Check and see if it might have come unhooked.
Dusty |
Thanks Dusty, I just pulled the cap off of one of my spares to see what is involved. To access the ground wire stud, the transformer needs to be removed. I will do it on a spare first. It looks like the timing involved with the mag is kind a new wrinkle for me so I am going to read up on that first.
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Bill Long
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Posted: 07 May 2017 at 4:18pm |
HemiEd, Welcome to the Forum. You will find a wealth of knowledge here. You cannot go wrong calling on SteveNJ for electrical work. He is the best. There is a website that shows how to time and work on mags. If I can find it I will post if for information. When you get to the points there is a beveled gear in the small gear. Your larger gear attached to the rotor should have a plate on it showing CC - counter clockwise - and C for Clockwise rotation. You want to match that with the C. Hey guys I am using a very old mind to remember that and if I am wrong please chime in. I believe the C is the nicest looking tractor that AC made. Also, don't forget it is you DAD's tractor. Don't let it get away. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck! Bill Long
Web Site - Could not find mag information but check you may wsmith.people.clemson.edu/index.htm
Edited by Bill Long - 07 May 2017 at 4:27pm
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HemiEd
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Posted: 07 May 2017 at 8:38pm |
Bill Long wrote:
HemiEd, Welcome to the Forum. You will find a wealth of knowledge here. You cannot go wrong calling on SteveNJ for electrical work. He is the best. There is a website that shows how to time and work on mags. If I can find it I will post if for information. When you get to the points there is a beveled gear in the small gear. Your larger gear attached to the rotor should have a plate on it showing CC - counter clockwise - and C for Clockwise rotation. You want to match that with the C. Hey guys I am using a very old mind to remember that and if I am wrong please chime in. I believe the C is the nicest looking tractor that AC made. Also, don't forget it is you DAD's tractor. Don't let it get away. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck! Bill Long
Web Site - Could not find mag information but check you may wsmith.people.clemson.edu/index.htm
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Thanks Bill.
I plan on keeping this old tractor as Dad rebuilt the motor and had a lot of time in it. Even though he was a very successful federal mediator, his heart was in farming. He didn't play games, felt like he was was enjoying recreation while in the seat of a tractor.
I look forward to learning more about the mags and hopefully get a link to that information. I noticed the transformer that is above the ground lug is staked in the one I opened.
My Grandpa used to say "if it aint broke don't fix it" and this old tractor runs well, just have to turn the fuel off to get it shut off. :-)
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Ted J
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Posted: 07 May 2017 at 9:17pm |
Well Ed, we'll have you up and tearing into everything in a few short weeks. (Once you get started, you'll figure it out and you CANNOT quit...) Comes from working on motors for racing and the itch that comes with figuring things out. I'll send you a PM and try to help you out with the mag and anything else you can have questions on. My baby is a 41 C and I'd be lost without it. If yours was a 49', I'd try to talk you out of it. (that was the year I was born and today is my B'day.) You'll Figure it out, I can almost guarantee it!! The BEST way to ask "Steve in NJ" is to call him; 973-six three two-5596 or go to his site and look around and then call him. He WILL help,,,,,,it's his calling!! http://www.bb-customcircuits.com/
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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wiplowboy
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Posted: 07 May 2017 at 9:21pm |
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Happy birthday Ted. I hope you had a great day.
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HemiEd
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Posted: 08 May 2017 at 7:04am |
Ted J wrote:
Well Ed, we'll have you up and tearing into everything in a few short weeks. (Once you get started, you'll figure it out and you CANNOT quit...) Comes from working on motors for racing and the itch that comes with figuring things out.
I'll send you a PM and try to help you out with the mag and anything else you can have questions on. My baby is a 41 C and I'd be lost without it. If yours was a 49', I'd try to talk you out of it. (that was the year I was born and today is my B'day.)
You'll Figure it out, I can almost guarantee it!! The BEST way to ask "Steve in NJ" is to call him; 973-six three two-5596 or go to his site and look around and then call him. He WILL help,,,,,,it's his calling!! http://www.bb-customcircuits.com/
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Wow, I can't ask for more than that Ted! Thanks so much, pm sent. Oh and Happy belated birthday! We are close to the same age, if you notice in my picture there is a 1950 Dodge Job Rated in the back ground. I bought it in 1984 for the same reason you mentioned.
Edited by HemiEd - 08 May 2017 at 7:07am
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 08 May 2017 at 10:08am |
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Ed,
I think you posted earlier and I answered on another post, but I'll elaborate on this post. Sorry I didn't pick up on the question on this post. Anyway, there is an insulated wire that runs from the grounding tang to the points on a "J" or "X" series Mag. (2 piece cap/lower cover) If that wire is disconnected, or not in there, the tang will do nothing to shut down the engine. An option is to install a switch up near the driver, so the engine can be shut down at the drivers seat. If this idea is used, a weatherproof switch or boot should be used to protect the switch from the elements. Mother Nature messes with these switches as they age, and being out in the elements can play havoc on the engine not starting because the switch is full of corrosion inside. (dead short or ground) HTH
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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HemiEd
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Posted: 08 May 2017 at 6:27pm |
Steve in NJ wrote:
Ed,
I think you posted earlier and I answered on another post, but I'll elaborate on this post. Sorry I didn't pick up on the question on this post. Anyway, there is an insulated wire that runs from the grounding tang to the points on a "J" or "X" series Mag. (2 piece cap/lower cover) If that wire is disconnected, or not in there, the tang will do nothing to shut down the engine. An option is to install a switch up near the driver, so the engine can be shut down at the drivers seat. If this idea is used, a weatherproof switch or boot should be used to protect the switch from the elements. Mother Nature messes with these switches as they age, and being out in the elements can play havoc on the engine not starting because the switch is full of corrosion inside. (dead short or ground) HTH
Steve@B&B
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Thank you Steve, very much. I am just amazed how helpful everyone is on here.
Ted sent me a lot of info that will be overload for my pea brain for a while. I can pull the cap without messing with the timing? It does have a two piece cap and the spare had a cog gear under the cap. But you hit the nail right on the head. It had a kill switch and wire that were toast. The wire was frayed and the switch was locked up. I replaced both, the wire was in the new wire harness I bought.
I need to absorb some of this and will get in touch with you if you don't mind.
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