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Allis C Tie Rods |
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Jim-Ohio
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Cols.Grove,Ohio Points: 335 |
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Topic: Allis C Tie RodsPosted: 14 Feb 2017 at 3:44pm |
![]() Is there a way to take these apart to rebuild? |
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'61D17, '51WD, '51CA, '41C, '49C, Woods 5'&6'Mower, 6'Blade, CA-Plow, CA-Cultivator, 3-Btm snap-coupler plow, 4-row planter, WD 4-row cultivator, 80R mower,#7 mower,B/C mower
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CrestonM
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Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8457 |
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Posted: 14 Feb 2017 at 4:22pm |
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I'd like to know as well. I went through heck getting the tie rods off my 8N when I painted it. None of the nuts were rusted, but the taped threaded part just spun. It took forever to get those nuts off. I think one I just cut off. Needless to say, I got new tie rod ends.
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AaronSEIA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mt Pleasant, IA Points: 2574 |
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Posted: 14 Feb 2017 at 4:41pm |
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Is that the drag link from the gearbox to the front? Parts book doesn't show a separate part. Good machine shop could probably weld a new end on if you can find a source.
AaronSEIA |
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7539 |
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Posted: 14 Feb 2017 at 8:40pm |
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Is there a way to take these apart to rebuild?
No, buy new ones. They do not cost much. |
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54438 |
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Posted: 14 Feb 2017 at 8:58pm |
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As far as getting them off, I have had luck with an appropriate sized pickle fork, hammered in to keep some tension on as you take the nut off. Been thinking about getting one of these, for those stubborn nuts:
[TUBE]http://youtu.be/litvs7yX7RQ[/TUBE]
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Jim-Ohio
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Cols.Grove,Ohio Points: 335 |
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Posted: 15 Feb 2017 at 8:30am |
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Aaron, Yes it is the drag link from the gearbox down to the front end. Did they make those so that the ends can't easily be replaced? The tractor is at our farm in Iowa so I can't look at it myself. Is there any option other than replacing the entire drag link? Has anyone ever tried to put zerk fittings in the ends? Jim
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'61D17, '51WD, '51CA, '41C, '49C, Woods 5'&6'Mower, 6'Blade, CA-Plow, CA-Cultivator, 3-Btm snap-coupler plow, 4-row planter, WD 4-row cultivator, 80R mower,#7 mower,B/C mower
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CrestonM
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Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8457 |
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Posted: 15 Feb 2017 at 9:31am |
I see how yours is, and it looks similar to the way my 8N is. The end link IS the whole rod! I couldn't think of any other alternative, so I just cut the end off and welded a new one on. You might just replace the whole thing if you can find one. I couldn't find any for my 8N that were just like the original, so I just worked with what I had.
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AaronSEIA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mt Pleasant, IA Points: 2574 |
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Posted: 15 Feb 2017 at 10:06am |
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I'm thinking you can weld one on or have a shop drill and tap the end of the drag link for a new joint. I suppose you could drill for a week but the damage is already done.
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pumpkinman
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Joined: 20 Jul 2011 Location: S.E. Michigan Points: 252 |
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Posted: 15 Feb 2017 at 10:43am |
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YOU CAN REPLACE IT WITH TIE ROD FOR A ADJ. WIDE FRONT W D
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18943 |
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Posted: 16 Feb 2017 at 10:11am |
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I've done it on a C.....easiest way is to cut it off and go to NAPA and get one you can weld on. The new ones are tapped for zerks.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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Nathan (SD)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Day County SD Points: 1285 |
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Posted: 16 Feb 2017 at 2:16pm |
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TRW ES150 and weld them on.
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