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Travis2766 
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Joined: 26 Aug 2015
Location: Amherst, Wi
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 Topic: Wheel Pusher Bolts
Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 2:22pm |
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Has anyone made their own pusher bolts for changing wheel width? I need to widen my 190xt some but am really not interested in paying $150-$200 for 3 bolts. Looks like I could make my own for a lot cheaper.
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190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 4:46pm |
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Maybe you are that talented. They must be at least a grade 8 bolt and they must be machined correctly to work.
Edited by DrAllis - 13 Jun 2025 at 4:46pm
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Unit3
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 4:54pm |
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If I sent them to you, can I trust you to send them back when you’re done?
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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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DrAllis
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 5:25pm |
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If one would machine down the end of a grade 8 bolt to the pusher bolts profile, what's left can't still be grade 8 can it ??
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Travis2766
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 5:36pm |
 DrAllis wrote:
If one would machine down the end of a grade 8 bolt to the pusher bolts profile, what's left can't still be grade 8 can it ?? |
That’s what I was thinking. I just need to know the length and diameter of the bolt and diameter of the milled down shank
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190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment.
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Travis2766
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 5:38pm |
DrAllis wrote:
Maybe you are that talented. They must be at least a grade 8 bolt and they must be machined correctly to work.
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Thanks for the offer but I would be afraid I’d break one! I wouldn’t feel so bad if I break one that’s mine.
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190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 6:58pm |
DrAllis wrote:
If one would machine down the end of a grade 8 bolt to the pusher bolts profile, what's left can't still be grade 8 can it ?? |
I found that to be an interesting question! Since I know a little metallurgy, but in a completely different arena, I looked a little bit. It looks to me like Grade 8 bolts are through hardened, whereas Grade 5’s not quite. So in that sense it seems like they would still be Grade 8.
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Alex09(WI)
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 8:55pm |
Have you tried A&W Tractor near Shawano, WI? Only 1 hr away from you! https://awtractor.com/product/wheel-jack-bolt-235674/
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www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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8070nc
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 9:44pm |
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Better check the thread pitch. I dont know about the 190 bolts but im pretty sure the are not standard pitch on the 7000/8000 bolts
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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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DrAllis
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 9:52pm |
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Thread pitch are normal 3/4" NC on those smaller bolts.
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 6:35am |
If you had a good machine shop cut down the ends of the bolts and explain exactly what you need it shouldn't change the grade if they went slow and didn't get the bolts too hot. Going back about 40 years but think we used a grinder to cut the ends down to get the hubs loose on our D19.
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only AC orange
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Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 7:10am |
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I made a set for my D-19 and they worked just fine! Grade 8, coarse three. Good luck!
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lentsch
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Posted: 15 Jun 2025 at 11:20am |
Travis2766 wrote:
Has anyone made their own pusher bolts for changing wheel width? I need to widen my 190xt some but am really not interested in paying $150-$200 for 3 bolts. Looks like I could make my own for a lot cheaper. |
Do you need dimensions? If you do I will try to find mine and take some measurements.
Edited by lentsch - 15 Jun 2025 at 11:23am
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WD,D15,190XT,7000,8010x2,7060,8070
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Leon B MO
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Posted: 15 Jun 2025 at 3:59pm |
I looked at mine today, grade 8, but the threads start at the base of the hex head. a bolt that long would not usually have threads the full length of the bolt. Just something to consider if you make a set. I thought I had an extra set to sell but I don't. I have a spare set of 70xx, 80xx I would part with Leon B MO
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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8070nc
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Posted: 15 Jun 2025 at 5:40pm |
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Ive got 3 lathes and I bought mine from agco. Firstly I know they will work. Secondly by the time I find fully threaded grade 8 bolts long enough,spend the time to turn them I can have 3 or 4 sets of wheels moved and if I count my time on the lathe i wont save any money
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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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8070nc
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Posted: 15 Jun 2025 at 6:24pm |
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Not to mention breaking up a bunch of carbide trying to turn material that hard
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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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DrAllis
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Posted: 15 Jun 2025 at 7:16pm |
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I wouldn't know where to look to find a full thread Gr8 3/4" NC bolt 6 inches long anyway.
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lentsch
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Posted: 15 Jun 2025 at 8:05pm |
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Try the Bolt Depot.
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WD,D15,190XT,7000,8010x2,7060,8070
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 15 Jun 2025 at 9:28pm |
DrAllis wrote:
I wouldn't know where to look to find a full thread Gr8 3/4" NC bolt 6 inches long anyway. |
McMaster Carr has grade 8 all thread rod in many lengths.Its what I used to solve the problem of the 3pt bracket on my D15 getting loose in the housing.
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Travis2766
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Posted: 15 Jun 2025 at 9:45pm |
lentsch wrote:
Travis2766 wrote:
Has anyone made their own pusher bolts for changing wheel width? I need to widen my 190xt some but am really not interested in paying $150-$200 for 3 bolts. Looks like I could make my own for a lot cheaper. |
Do you need dimensions? If you do I will try to find mine and take some measurements. |
Some dimensions would be great!
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190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment.
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WF owner
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Posted: 16 Jun 2025 at 5:22am |
ZORO.com (a Grainger subsidiary) and Grainger both have Grade 8 bolts that are threaded all the way.
Edited by WF owner - 16 Jun 2025 at 5:29am
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Hurst
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Posted: 16 Jun 2025 at 8:29am |
If you search on eBay for "Allis Wheel Pusher Bolts" you will find a couple of people who make them for quite a bit less than AGCO. Might be another avenue to explore.
Best,
Hurst
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
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TedN
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Posted: 16 Jun 2025 at 10:38am |
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From what I remember they are threaded by the head with a protrusion to push against the wheel. To make a replacement I would find a piece of shaft material the correct diameter and cut it to length and just use a grade eight bolt to push it. The only reason it has to be one piece is to make it easier to remove, and a good magnet should do the job. If not, you have your wheel loose, just move it away a little and push the shaft pieces back out.
Ted
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190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
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Hurst
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Posted: 16 Jun 2025 at 2:16pm |
I tried something similar to this on my 7000, and the biggest call out is it can mushroom the end of the bolts so it is very difficult to back out through the threads again. The factor bolt puts all that pressure on and undercut part of the pusher bolt, so even if it mushrooms out slightly, it will still pass through the threads in the wedge when you remove it.
Hurst
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
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8070nc
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Posted: 16 Jun 2025 at 3:53pm |
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Im now going to say what i tried to gently say in my earlier posts. I understand agco bolts seem expensive. I understand farmer ingenuity to save money. Totally. Ive been very blessed so their cost is not aproblem for me. Believe me it has not always been that way. In the case of removing wheel wedges the forces can be tremendous. Mess around and ruin a wedge or 4 and the costs get way out of hand. I said all that to say this. I think the cheapest route is agco bolts,move the wheels and be done with it. Given as friendly advice from experience
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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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Unit3
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Posted: 17 Jun 2025 at 5:26pm |
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Again, I have 3 that you can borrow. I’m gonna take them down to our local Machine shop and have the threads straightened. The 1st inch of the threads doesn’t look the best.
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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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