Later d17 saved from fence row

I got on A and I parts and search that number
(SK156) and they have an overhaul kit for $918 or $131 for the sleeve, piston, and rings per cylinder.
And it says it’s a high compression kit and 4.125” overbore.

1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

They are available from some of the aftermarket companies.

If I remember correctly, I got a set from Perfect Circle several years ago. You need to measure the size of the rings. All M&W pistons (for the 201/226) are 4.125" (oversize).

Think I’m going good used on the two sleeves due to it being decently low houred and the two good sleeves are very good.
Will put rings and O rings on all the sleeves to prevent problems.
Think I will rebuild the head because of a lot of pits in the valves.

1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

Is the spun rod bearing on one of the good cylinders?

Found Abilene machine has the overhaul kit for $500 and that comes with everything including shipping.
Only thing is that it’s the original 7.25:1 compression ratio. But it is 4.125 overbore.
Also found a guy who might be able to fix my crank shaft quite a bit cheaper.

Question: how would I test the oil pump before I put it together?
I want to be sure that it has good oil pressure before I put it together to be safe.

1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

Here’s a link to an A and I high compression kit..
https://www.allpartsstore.com/ItemDetl.htm?ResultsList=251016376624998&CategorySeq=&SelcBrand=&SelcMachn=&SelcModel=&SelcSectn=&SelcSubsc=&SearchDesc=1&TextSearch=ALLIS%20CHALMERS%20D17%20OVERHAUL%20KIT&ItemNumber=IK405

It’s $918 bucks but according to Doc it’s 10:1 compression.
I wasn’t wanting to spend that much on it though.
Would be curious if anyone on here has done that kit and dynoed it?

1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

no cumbustion chamber with flat tops

I think I'd go with the lower CR kit at that price too!

1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45

You can just replace rings. Sleeves should be honed before doing that.

M&W made pistons that were supposed to add power. The were introduced more for the WD45 that had the lower compression ratio. In addition to higher compression than stock, going from 4" bore to 4.125" added 14 more cubic inches to the engine.

I suspect that other manufacturers followed M&W for more cubic inches. Other than through AC (AGCO now), I don't remember any aftermarket rebuild kit that was not the 4.125".

Sleeves are usually replaced when rebuilding for a number of reasons. These engines usually have lots of hours of run time, when they are rebuilt. Like engines that have dry (pressed in) sleeves or have no sleeves, there is usually some damage and/or wear to the bore. Sleeveless engines have to be bored by a machinist to get a perfect bore.

Wet sleeves (like most AC or Buda engines) are relatively easy to replace, so rebuilding is easier (and usually less expensive) than a dry sleeved or an engine without sleeves. In addition, wet sleeves have O rings on the outside to seal them, and the O rings deteriorate over time, so the sleeves have to be removed to replace the O rings.

The wet sleeves also corrode over time and it's not unusual to have an old engine that develops pin holes in a sleeve. New sleeves on rebuilding usually eliminates the possibility of leaks.

Personally, I would never sandblast an engine, especially one that is tore down. I doubt you could ever get all the sand out it.

I would rather pay someone to "hot tank" it. It will also do a better job cleaning the inside of the engine block.

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55allis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1092	Post Options Post Reply Quote 55allis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Oct 2025 at 11:14pm
	I got on A and I parts and search that number (SK156) and they have an overhaul kit for $918 or $131 for the sleeve, piston, and rings per cylinder. And it says it’s a high compression kit and 4.125” overbore.
	1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

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55allis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1092	Post Options Post Reply Quote 55allis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Oct 2025 at 2:24pm
	Would anyone know of a ring kit for the sp-48 m and w piston?
	1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

WF owner Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 5049	Post Options Post Reply Quote WF owner Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Oct 2025 at 3:40pm
	They are available from some of the aftermarket companies. If I remember correctly, I got a set from Perfect Circle several years ago. You need to measure the size of the rings. All M&W pistons (for the 201/226) are 4.125" (oversize).

evan austin Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jul 2021 Location: Gaston Indiana Points: 25	Post Options Post Reply Quote evan austin Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Oct 2025 at 7:48pm
	Steiner lists a piston and sleeve kit P/N ACS3056, 4 1/8" bore, they claim 7.25:1 compression, for $439.99 plus shipping. This is the first time that I have seen the compression ratio listed on one of their kits, maybe it was always there and I didn't notice it before...

55allis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1092	Post Options Post Reply Quote 55allis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 4:11pm
	Think I’m going good used on the two sleeves due to it being decently low houred and the two good sleeves are very good. Will put rings and O rings on all the sleeves to prevent problems. Think I will rebuild the head because of a lot of pits in the valves.
	1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

55allis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1092	Post Options Post Reply Quote 55allis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Oct 2025 at 12:02pm
	Got the oil pan off today and figured out why it was parked, it had spun a rod bearing…
	1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

scott Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: michigan Points: 2749	Post Options Post Reply Quote scott Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Oct 2025 at 9:30am
	Is the spun rod bearing on one of the good cylinders?

55allis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1092	Post Options Post Reply Quote 55allis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Oct 2025 at 9:40am
	Yes, it was number 4. 1 and 4 has good sleeves but 2 and 3 sleeves are junk. Got all the pistons and sleeves out and the pistons look all good. Even the rings don’t look too bad.
	1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

55allis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1092	Post Options Post Reply Quote 55allis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 6:11pm
	Found Abilene machine has the overhaul kit for $500 and that comes with everything including shipping. Only thing is that it’s the original 7.25:1 compression ratio. But it is 4.125 overbore. Also found a guy who might be able to fix my crank shaft quite a bit cheaper. Question: how would I test the oil pump before I put it together? I want to be sure that it has good oil pressure before I put it together to be safe.
	1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

WF owner Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 5049	Post Options Post Reply Quote WF owner Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 8:33pm
	The doctor can correct me, but I believe only the (gas) 175 had the 8.25/1 compression ratio pistons (maybe some propane engines, too) and they are very hard (almost impossible) to find.

55allis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1092	Post Options Post Reply Quote 55allis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 9:34pm
	Here’s a link to an A and I high compression kit.. https://www.allpartsstore.com/ItemDetl.htm?ResultsList=251016376624998&CategorySeq=&SelcBrand=&SelcMachn=&SelcModel=&SelcSectn=&SelcSubsc=&SearchDesc=1&TextSearch=ALLIS%20CHALMERS%20D17%20OVERHAUL%20KIT&ItemNumber=IK405 It’s $918 bucks but according to Doc it’s 10:1 compression. I wasn’t wanting to spend that much on it though. Would be curious if anyone on here has done that kit and dynoed it?
	1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22083	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 10:58pm
	175 gas engine is 4 inch bore @ 8.25 to 1 compression. D-17 LPgas is also 8.25 to 1 with 4 inch bore.

HudCo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3941	Post Options Post Reply Quote HudCo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 8:41am
	no cumbustion chamber with flat tops

55allis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1092	Post Options Post Reply Quote 55allis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 9:03am
	Found a 8.25:1 kit but I’m NOT going to give $2400. So I guess it’s going to go to stock. https://www.jensales.com/products/ep-915144-allis-buda-out-of-frame-overhaul-kit-allis-chalmers-g226.html
	1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

wjohn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 2256	Post Options Post Reply Quote wjohn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 8:06pm
	I think I'd go with the lower CR kit at that price too!
	1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45

ACinSC Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 3035	Post Options Post Reply Quote ACinSC Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 7:03am
	Dumb question probably, but what is the reason for overbore? Why can't you just replace the liners and put new rings on the pistons? Thanks

WF owner Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 5049	Post Options Post Reply Quote WF owner Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 9:09am
	You can just replace rings. Sleeves should be honed before doing that. M&W made pistons that were supposed to add power. The were introduced more for the WD45 that had the lower compression ratio. In addition to higher compression than stock, going from 4" bore to 4.125" added 14 more cubic inches to the engine. I suspect that other manufacturers followed M&W for more cubic inches. Other than through AC (AGCO now), I don't remember any aftermarket rebuild kit that was not the 4.125". Sleeves are usually replaced when rebuilding for a number of reasons. These engines usually have lots of hours of run time, when they are rebuilt. Like engines that have dry (pressed in) sleeves or have no sleeves, there is usually some damage and/or wear to the bore. Sleeveless engines have to be bored by a machinist to get a perfect bore. Wet sleeves (like most AC or Buda engines) are relatively easy to replace, so rebuilding is easier (and usually less expensive) than a dry sleeved or an engine without sleeves. In addition, wet sleeves have O rings on the outside to seal them, and the O rings deteriorate over time, so the sleeves have to be removed to replace the O rings. The wet sleeves also corrode over time and it's not unusual to have an old engine that develops pin holes in a sleeve. New sleeves on rebuilding usually eliminates the possibility of leaks.

55allis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1092	Post Options Post Reply Quote 55allis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 11:05am
	Would it be safe to sandblast the block? Was thinking about the different panels not matching so eventually I will paint the rest of the tractor. If I could go ahead and sandblast, prime , and paint the block while it’s all apart it would be one less thing to pull apart later. Plus a brand new engine needs brand new paint.
	1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45

WF owner Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 5049	Post Options Post Reply Quote WF owner Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 12:40pm
	Personally, I would never sandblast an engine, especially one that is tore down. I doubt you could ever get all the sand out it. I would rather pay someone to "hot tank" it. It will also do a better job cleaning the inside of the engine block.