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jason82 
Bronze Level
Joined: 25 Nov 2015
Location: iowa
Points: 38
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 Topic: 78 Gleaner F2 StrawWalkers (original/aftermarket)
Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 1:31pm |
have a issue with the straw walkers on my Gleaner F2, looks like at some point the crank shaft for the Straw walkers broke and the straw walkers ended up smashing against the beater and floor, would like to replacing them with original ones but have come across aftermarket ones that are Lip Type Louvers, Looking to find out if anyone has come across these aftermarket ones or has any info about originals vs aftermarket If anyone has used the Lip type Louvers straw walkers would like to hear some cons and pros on them, harvesting corn and soybeans only 1st photo originals straw walkers ( generic photo ) 2nd photo aftermarket straw walkers  
Edited by jason82 - 15 Sep 2016 at 5:25pm
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tbran
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Paris Tn
Points: 3528
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Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 1:39pm |
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the louver will not plug like the OEM with cobs as in your first picture. I have seen no issue with the louver type after market ones.
We always try to use the walker screens which cut the openings in half to prevent plugging. IF you feel you need more capacity simply make some larger openers toward the front - which I see no need to do.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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SHAMELESS
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: EAST NE
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Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 2:01pm |
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all my Gleaners had the ones like pictured in the first picture. and I had the problem with cobs sticking and then the hair and leaves building up until I sprayed "slip plate" or the graphite spray used for making wet grain flow better, never had a plugging problem after that!
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SHAMELESS
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Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 2:05pm |
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I also had one straw walker stress break on the rear mount, was unfixable without a lot of brace work, so was able to get another from a combine junk yard. found out the wood blocks were worn some and that's what caused the breakage. replaced all the wood blocks and never had another problem. keep them greased.
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tbran
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Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 4:03pm |
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watch the sides of the combine - if the bearings bend the sheet metal, the walker shaft are bent - twisted. About 50% are that I have seen - -if the walkers ever plug it usually bends the early machined shafts. The later bent ones are tougher. The walkers should be EASY to turn by hand with no tough spots. Binding indicates a non true shaft.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Dmpaul89
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Joined: 06 Mar 2013
Location: Edwardsville,IL
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Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 6:01pm |
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Man there is so much to learn about these machines. Ive had mine about a year now. And everytime I get on this website it seems like I learn something new.
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MACK
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Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 8:04pm |
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Back in the days when straw walker blocks had grease zerts in them, we replaced blocks all time. After they quit putting zerts in them, they ran for years with out replacement. MACK
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jason82
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Joined: 25 Nov 2015
Location: iowa
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Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 8:13pm |
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Thanks for all the info, helps a lot, keep it coming.
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tbran
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Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 10:01pm |
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look at the sheet metal under the engine, it will eventually come loose and have to be re bolted... look at the idler on the cylinder belt, if it has not had the spud replaced it will not be running true.. look at the shoe - have someone put the machine in gear and let it idle - it should go back and forth straight - no side to side movement allowed. If it is not perfect - the eccentric shaft is twisted due to a straw walker plug up.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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