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Rear Wheel Rail Stops Question

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KenBWisc View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 4:11pm
The right hand wheel on MY WD was set all the way in with both stops on either side of one excentric matching up with holes in the rails. Both had slugs extending through rail holes behind each bolt. When I moved the wheel out two inches to 26" from tractor center neither rail stop matches up  with a rail hole.  Should I be concerned about this? 
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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Jason(OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jason(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 6:16pm
Without the stops it will not stay were you have it set. Over time it will work its way in or out or it may move if the tire spins or when it is under a heavy load. Your best bet would be to move it in or out to the next stop.

Edited by Jason(OH) - 21 Sep 2015 at 6:17pm
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KenBWisc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 7:47am
Can the stops be be turned down onto one side of the rail only OR do they have to be turned into a rail hole? 
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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Dusty MI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dusty MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 10:05am
If I remember right there only 3 possessions, all the way in, in the middle, and all the way out. Unless you turn the wheel center around, then there are 6.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 10:10am
Some replacement rims don't have the same number and spacing of holes as the originals. If your wheels are all the way out or all the way in, you only need one of the stops.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote grinder220 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 10:13am
The stops have to be lined up with the holes. You couldn't even tighten them up if they were not in line with a hole as they have to go through them. Do you have the proper stops for your rim?? They made 2 different stops and rails as I found out on my D17. Pictures would sure help so we could see what you have going on here.
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KenBWisc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 11:13am
What you describe as having rail holes corresponding to only all in/out or in the middle is what I have. Sooooo, the question is how does a guy set the wheel for a 16" plow at 26" from the center of the draw bar to the inside of the tire without rail holes to set the stops in?
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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Stan IL&TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 12:04pm
Without the stops it just makes it harder to adjust to where you want it.  Trial and error is the plan of the day to set it for an exact location without the use of a stop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 12:14pm
The rail stops were meant for ease of adjustment to different positions, you can put the wheel anywhere in between wide and narrow and clamp it up. If the wheel won't stay where you put it without a stop, you have a problem with the eccentrics not clamping tight enough.
 It might be easier to jack one side up at a time and set them by hand to get a point in between the stops to a certain measurement.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 22 Sep 2015 at 12:17pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 1:51pm
Thanks to all! I have the wheel set at 26" but was worried about placing the stops on the rails without holes to bolt them too. Sounds like in this position the strops should be removed and thrown into the tool box?
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 2:42pm
How close to the next stop hole is it? What would the measurement be if you adjusted the wheel to that hole?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 4:31pm


The original distance from tractor center to inside of rear wheel was around 24" . After the adjustment it is now 26". To make this move the eccentrics traveled 3" around the rails. To end up with rail holes, and thus stops, on either side of the eccentric would require another 3.25" of movement. Don't know for certain but I estimate this may put the wheel spacing out to around 28"+. If this is in the ballpark I had just as well have left the spacing at 24". Which begs the question; "How much tire spacing leeway do you have for the plow to work well?
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 6:10pm
You could always make up a special stop, by welding a piece of flat stock, to the wheel stop...
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Jason(OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jason(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 6:42pm
According to my 70 series plow manual, a WD needs to be set at 22-24 inches for a 3 bottom snap coupler plow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 8:19am
Jason, is that for a 14" plow? My plow manual recommends 26" for  16". 
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 8:21am
If I'm clear on what Charlie said; Stops do not have to be in rail holes for wheel settings that put eccentrics between those holes. ????
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TedBuiskerN.IL. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 8:47am

Run the wheel out against the stop, put in the other stop and tighten the eccentrics at the nearest position to the width you want.  Then if the plow takes too large or too small a cut with the first bottom, adjust the plow on the frame until it is correct, and you have every thing set for this tractor/plow combination.
Many times the front bottom will take too large a cut at the factory recommended settings because of worn landslides.



Edited by TedBuiskerN.IL. - 23 Sep 2015 at 8:49am
Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 9:23am
Well since this has been going for a couple days I dug out my plow manual. on page 5 it states. set the tread width at 56" for 14" bottoms and 61" for 16" bottoms. looking in the WD manual on page 24 56" tread all the way in. stops removed. 61" is with the wheel at the next stop. Have you looked in your plow manual to see what it says about tread width. I've found that adjusting to the manual should be your best starting point. you can tweek from there to try and make it better. I just used the recomended setup and its pulled so easy that ive never changed it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 11:27am
Yup. The plow manual is where I got the 26" measurement. Tractor manual of 56" and 61" is from tire center to center vs. inside tire to middle of tractor for the plow book.  Thanks to both Ted and Dave for clear answers.
I'm not sure my clamps and stops had ever been removed. I was trying to get by with moving only the RH wheel which seems to match up well with the plow manual. I may have to break loose the LH wheel as well.
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dusty MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 4:51pm
When you drop the right hand wheel in the furrow more than 50% of the weight of the rear of the tractor is on that right wheel. If the left wheel is out further than the right then a higher percent the weight is on that right wheel. Because of that the left wheel will break traction quicker that the right, and that gets to be a pain, especially when the plowing gets tough.
So yes you need to move the left wheel in also.

Dusty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 6:59pm
That's why Dad always put one wheel weight on the left side of the Ca. It had fluid, but he added that weight for plowing.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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