Any Way to Improve Brake Lock on a D17?

On my new D17 IV, the brake lock is the same cam arrangement as used on the several previous series, which is to say, it doesn't work very well.  Much as I love the D17, the brake lock is as bad as I always remembered it, meaning I would never expect the brakes to hold on a hill, so I would always shut down the tractor and put it in gear first.  However, I noticed in the D17 IV Operators Manual a picture of the brake lock using a saw-tooth type plate bolted to the pedal, so the latch could actually engage it reliably.  Is this something used on later tractors, and is it possible to easily retrofit it?  On my Farmall 200, I can lock the brakes using my heel, and they will hold on any hill.  The D17 brake lock is a joke basically, but I'm wondering if a positive engagement ratchet arrangement might help. 

All series 4's had saw tooth design...one change was made to it over the years.....the 3/8"  bolt that goes thru the platform ( and holds the pivot pin) comes in from underneath and is an all-thread bolt, so using two nuts it can be adjusted to come in contact with the torque housing eliminating platform flexing while retaining the pivot pin for the locking pawl.

Alll series 4's also have the brake pedals with the swing over lock plate to tie them together.

Thanks Dr. Allis and the others with help.  The area around the brake lock was full of grease and dirt, so I just glanced at it and assumed it was the cam style.  It is the saw-tooth arrangement.  I cleaned things up and studied it a bit, and one reason it doesn't hold well is that there is too much give in the entire platform assembly, so once the pawl locks, the entire assembly shifts upwards under pressure, losing most of the hold on the brake pedal.  I will be replacing the Snap Coupler housing with one from a factory 3ph off a 185, so all the brakes and such will be coming off.  When I reassemble it, I will make sure the mentioned support bolt is correct, and I might deepen the notches as several have mentioned.  

Guess I'll hafta help Ted's case... I've got a Series 1 with ordinary cam, and it locks 'em down tight.  DIdn't when I got it, but the brake shoe adjustment solved that...

but I'll take it on advisement that this may not always be the case... so I won't trust it.  :-)



Edited by DaveKamp - 01 Jun 2011 at 10:26pm

Reviving an old post. Can anyone post pictures of what the "brake lock" lever should look like installed. I bought a partially disassembled series IV and I don't have one close to cheat with and the parts manual didn't help. I have the rod installed on notched locks and bolted down at the top. but it just flops around. There must be something else that keeps it in place. Thanks!

Essentially the same pawl and saw teeth as a D-19, yes.

If the breaks are adjusted right the cam will engage just fine. Now that funky bent rod to disengage it once the break peddle is wedged against it that thing could use some work.

I need to do something to my D-10. I haven't looked at it, but like your D-17 it doesn't hold.

My 160's pawl and ratchet parking brake is not working anymore. worn.