G start-up problems

So, despite how my posts may look, I am enjoying bringing this old G back to life and I will post some pictures soon for those of you who have helped me out, I really appreciate it.

History to latest problem:  Tractor was able to start from battery (replaced cables down to 1 gauge) once we got the carb cleaned and fuel lines cleaned.  But, tractor would putter out after a second or two and smoke from the manifold was dark (muffler is removed).  My mechanic suggested that I check the breaker points in the distributor (after adjusting the intake on the carb showed no benefits, currently have it at one and one half turn out as the manual suggests).  I replaced the hardware inside the distributor but in the process mixed up the wires for the plugs(!).

Current situation: I have set the breaker points right (I think) and have the plugs back in place (I think, clock wise (from 11 o'clock) they go 1,3,4,2 on the dis cap).  Tractor will not start and is puffing white smoke and gasoline out of the manifold. 

Once the engine is flooded, the plugs need drying. Either by cutting off the fuel or at least opening the choke and throttle full wide open. It often works better to take the plugs out and dry them with compressed air. You need to be sure you read the cylinder numbers correctly and that firing is near top dead center on each cylinder. You can find top dead center on each compression stroke with the plugs out by using a finger over the plug hole.

I think cylinder 1 is opposite the flywheel end. You need to be sure you have spark, take a plug wire off a plug and pull back the sleeve and hold the metal a quarter inch or so from ground, it should spark every other crankshaft revolution.

Changing point gap changes timing. And timing is one of the critical elements in making an engine run.

Black smoke indicates running rich. To big a jet, or too restricted an intake, like choke closed or air filter clogged.

The initial carburetor setting is just close enough to hopefully get the engine to run so it can be refined with the engine running. Its NOT set in stone that its the optimum setting.

It takes setting the point gap to make them work at all. Check with a 6 volt test light across the points to see that they are closing and opening. New points sometimes need a bit of cleaning to actually make contact.

Gerald J.

Just break means just open. Used to time VW bugs that way with a DC test light.

Gerald J.

Gerald thank you, I fittled around with it today and got it running really smooth.  Finally got the rotor to match up with the cylinder at TDC and it worked great.  Thanks again.