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Synthetic oil

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NEVER green View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NEVER green Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2015 at 7:40am
  

   With engine on a dyno just changing the non synthetic to synthetic increases HP, proven results.
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2015 at 9:48am
If nothing else, the old commercial where they claim that 80% of your engine wear occurs during warmup is true. Those who live in the South may not notice cold weather issues as much as those in the North. I grew up in the Midwest and remember those sub-zero mornings where the engine would never really warm up completely. It's a proven fact that synthetics flow much more readily when cold than mineral oils. It may take several minutes for mineral oils to squeak through the tiny passages whereas synthetic oil will be flowing freely even when bone cold. Your oil filter bypass may be open during these cold starts as well. As others here have noted, cold engines turn over more easily with synthetic oil. You can change your mineral oil every 3000 miles and get pretty good results with it. Count me among the old and lazy. I prefer not to spend my life under my car.

Edit: Don't get me started on synthetic ATF. I've changed brownish ATF mineral oil at 30,000 miles to synthetic and ran the synthetic ATF for 90,000 miles, only to see that oil still with its nice red tint.


Edited by DougS - 21 May 2015 at 10:48am
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VFDfireman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VFDfireman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2015 at 11:53am
Originally posted by NEVER green NEVER green wrote:

  

   With engine on a dyno just changing the non synthetic to synthetic increases HP, proven results.


Sorry bud nothing more than marketing hype...kinda like the k+n filter adds. The gains or losses are fractional at best and are easily lost in the mathematical noise of the dyno.

Synthetics have better cold flow properties and heat break down resistance (kinda moot point on a engine with a functional cooling system) properties and that's it.

The rest of the performance characteristics are made up by the additive package of the oil, TBN, antiwear additives etc.

I've seen several UOAs on conventional oils with a robust additive pkg exceed a supposedely superior synthetic oil. I see it all the time in HDEO (diesel) oils. My ford 6.7l uses 5w40 in the winter only because it starts better and is reccomended by Ford. Other wise 15w40 is used in the other months of the year as my UOAs are better and its better on my pocket book.



Bottom line is there is much more to it than just blindly saying synthetic is better. By that thinking you are leaving dollars on the table with no real benefit.

I definitely reccomend Blackstone.

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Mrgoodwrench View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mrgoodwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2015 at 4:39pm
To those who think synthetic makes no difference...why at the same interval in the same engine is synthetic oil cleaner?

I'd believe synthetic blend is a marketing ploy although I have been using it in my gas engines. But that is mostly because if you catch an oil change special at the parts store its only about $1 more than the good conventional.
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blue924.9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2015 at 7:18pm
Originally posted by matador matador wrote:

I don't endorse this at all:

My grandfather owned a 2000 Impala that he bought with 75k miles. He didn't have the money keep safe tires on it, but we were able to do that. He was supposed to have the oil done, but he never did. He went 30,000 miles between changes... twice. That's right- from 120k miles to 180k miles, he had one change done in the middle. That car made it to 217k miles. After he passed, we sold the car to an auto rebuilder who wanted the body and transmission. The head gasket was going bad, there was oil in the coolant, and what came out of the pan looked worse than Elvis Presley's autopsy. I dumped used oil from one of our trucks in there- it at least sort of looked like oil. We drove the car 30 miles to the buyer- 30 miles down the highway. I was puffing white smoke, but the engine still ran.

The point- any engine should make 200k miles if it's taken care of. Heck- that poor 3400 was abused most of it's life- and it still got there. That said, I would keep clean oil and a good filter in a car before I would worry about the brand.

Now, please, don't try to replicate what my grandfather did.





Bought a olds lss with the 3800 v6 for a pig barn car haf 220k on it when I got it and went to change the oil at 223k and learned the oil was last changed at 170k THAT'S RIGHT 170K 50 thousand miles on an oil change, already had it drained when I found out or I would have got some to be tested. Of course with the new oil it started a tick and a knock but oh well I guess
hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share
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Thad in AR. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2015 at 8:27pm
I got 330000 miles out of my old truck runnin Quaker State. I'm sittin at 263??? on my present truck runnin Quaker State. My Stihl 031 got whatever 2 stroke I could find locally and was still runnin strong at 30 years old when it got stolen.
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