d14 powering down after increased throttle

I purchased a project '59 d14 last summer and recently the tractor starting shutting down after a few minutes of operation.  It seems to idle fine but anytime I increase the throttle and take it for a ride it shuts down.  I've followed the owners manual suggestions and checked the air filter, cleaned the fuel filter screen and sediment bowl, cleaned the carb checking the float to gasket gap, changed plugs with propper gapping and replaced the 12 volt coil.  My next effort will be changing the points but I'm wondering if someone with more experience than me knows of another thing to check.  I have to admit I'm new to this with no prior experience but I've enjoyed the challenge of fixing the tractor myself. 

I apologize, it's not for sale. I'm new to the forum and posted this to the wrong location.  Any suggestions?

Could be something floating around in the tank or a restriction in flow anywhere from the tank to the carb bowl. My CA did that once. Gave me fits till I found the cardboard "gasket" from a clorox bottle that the renter used to put gas in the tractor.

Scott(SC) wrote: Try removing the sediment bowl and strain your gas and pour it throught the tank a couple times. Check the line from the tank to the carb. Might also disassemble the carb and blow out all the passages. Mine also gets trash behind the seat.

Scott, my truck gets trash behind the seat


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 09 Aug 2012 at 7:35pm

I had a D14 do that one time. I cleaned the carb new points plugs and wires. It still did it. it would idle but as soon as I put it under a load it would act like it ran out of gas. I pulled the sediment bowl/shutoff assembly and nothing fell out.I tried the rinse trick and the gas would come out fast then just barely. I got a flashlight and found an acorn in the tank that was to big to fit through the threads and fall out. I finally broke it in pieces and got it out. It would always let gas through but not enough.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.  The gas seems to flow fine from the tank to the filter.  I tested it while I had the sediment bowl and screen off for a cleaning, but I'll get a flashlight and look in the tank just to make sure there isn't a blockage.  I ran air through the fuel line from the fuel filter to the carb and there wasnt any resistance.  I checked the carb, gave it a good cleaning but I didn't replace the gaskets which could have been a mistake.  Since I already replaced the plugs and coil my next plan of attack is: 1) replace the carb gaskets 2) check the condensor 3) check the points.  Hopefully the 14 is back in business this weekend!

Scott(SC) wrote: Charlie, that's why I got an extended cab; takes longer to fill up. lol

Dangit... I tried that, and it filled with KIDS... WTH???


Okay, there's clearly more than one possibility here, and I'll second the fuel-flow AND condenser/points/coil possibility... you'll have to prove out each system in order to find out for certain.

Fuel flow IS a high suspect, and I've been in your shoes with it... make sure the WHOLE SYSTEM is totally stock (no filters, no rubber, correct fuel cap, etc), and do a dump-in-can flow test... if it empties a half gallon out of the tank, with cap on, into a jug right out the drain in the carb in under 2 minutes, then you have good flow.  I've had 'em flow like mad for 15 seconds, and then fall flat.  Wrong caps (not vented), sediment and objects blocking the inlet, missing screen, ball-bearing in the sediment bowl, filter with a check valve, rubber hose that collapsed internally, float valves that jam against the body, needle valves that 'marry' to the seat... every one of those things have hexed me.  The absolute, positively worst hex, was when the oil-bath air-cleaner ended up with enough moisture to freeze, and block off the airflow... that one kicked my arse... because I towed it into the shop, let it warm up, pulled and rebuilt the carb... put it back in, drove it to the barn, parked it, and !@#$ if it didn't do it again the next day...

The igntion system... it's hard for it to 'slow' the engine down, however, the lack of a good condenser, or points that have a bad spring, or a coil that's incorrect voltage, or wrong polarity, will do some obnoxious stuff.  Remember that when running slow, the amount of TIME that the contacts are closed, is long... that means, lots of time for magnetic field to build in the secondary.  As you speed up the engine, the amount of closed-time ('dwell') shortens dramatically.  The ignition coil's magnetic properties (inductive reactance) has an effect on how the field builds, and as a result, a small problem inside the coil may result in a runs-but-poorly situation.  Likewise, the ignition coil spring frequently carries electric current for the primary side... if the primary side of the system winds up carrying excess current, for a long enough time, the point spring will overheat, and the metal will anneal (get soft), resulting in very low pressure on the points when closed... this translates to higher resistance, and less current flow through the points to coil primary.  With the points being closed for a longer TIME, there's a higher likelyhood that light contact pressure will NOT hinder development of a spark.  As the engine speed comes up, the points have less dwell time, and of course, with the spring tension being low, the contacts 'bounce'.

The condenser's job, is to cushion the 'jolt' associated with the primary circuit opening and closing each time the point cam lifts the points.  If the condenser is failing, the 'jolt' tends to cause the points to carry an arc after they've opened.  This translates to continued primary current, which means the magnetic field in the coil doesn't collapse properly, hence, spark goes to crap.

Now, much of this can be eliminated through testing.  Start it up, bring it up to 'fall off' speed, and pull the choke out a smidgen... if it recovers, and you can keep it going, it's a fuel flow issue.

If not, points and condenser.

jsantacroce wrote: I purchased a project '59 d14 last summer and recently the tractor starting shutting down after a few minutes of operation.  It seems to idle fine but anytime I increase the throttle and take it for a ride it shuts down.  I've followed the owners manual suggestions and checked the air filter, cleaned the fuel filter screen and sediment bowl, cleaned the carb checking the float to gasket gap, changed plugs with propper gapping and replaced the 12 volt coil.  My next effort will be changing the points but I'm wondering if someone with more experience than me knows of another thing to check.  I have to admit I'm new to this with no prior experience but I've enjoyed the challenge of fixing the tractor myself.

 If choking it helps keep it running, don't waste time looking at the ignition side. It is a fuel flow problem.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 12 Aug 2012 at 12:43pm

could be dirt dobbers in the air intake pipe.