Update on CA with knock

Message Rating: Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   Greg,  Thanks for the insight.  I really hope that I don't need to do all that you have done.  I feel that this tractor didn't have that hard of a life but I could be wrong and it is around 60 years old.

Steve, thanks for the updates.  Keep us informed as to what is going on with it.

I hope to work on mine this weekend.  I didn't have any time this week.

	This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
	The Forum	Parts and Services	Unofficial Allis Store	Tractor Shows	Serial Numbers	History

Author	Message Rating: Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
StewartMD Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Dec 2009 Location: Emmitsburg, MD Points: 314	Post Options Post Reply Quote StewartMD Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 2012 at 9:41am
	Greg, Thanks for the insight. I really hope that I don't need to do all that you have done. I feel that this tractor didn't have that hard of a life but I could be wrong and it is around 60 years old. Steve, thanks for the updates. Keep us informed as to what is going on with it. I hope to work on mine this weekend. I didn't have any time this week.
	8030, 8010, 220, 185, 160, D-17, WD, Unstyled WC, CA, G, 20-35, Gleaner E

Sponsored Links

GregLawlerMinn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lawler, Mn Points: 1226	Post Options Post Reply Quote GregLawlerMinn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 2012 at 11:15am
	Stewart I would suspect your knock is a loose bearing or a worn thrust lip on the front main (I have yet to run into a loose wrist pin causing a knock). Most of the engines I have rebuilt were fixed with a rebuild kit and machine shop work, not too often did they require the replacement parts that this last one did. Just trying to help you focus on 1st determining the condition of your engine by inspecting every thing THEN deciding on what you want to do to fix it up. These engines will run fairly well on marginal parts so it is not always necessary to do a complete rebuild if all you are interested in is a decent running tractor. My pocketbook is such that when I go into the engine, I can usually afford to bring it back to "like new" condition. Not all are blessed with the available funds to do this, and I understand. I have also partially rebuilt a sick engine because I did not have the funds to do a complete "like new" rebuild. If you have the gages (and the skill to use them correctly) and determine that the pistons/cylinders are good...new rings may be in order; likewise with new bearings on an existing crank or just one new sleeve/piston. Just be confident that your assessment is accurate so you don't waste your time and money and have to go back into the engine.
	What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC

StewartMD Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Dec 2009 Location: Emmitsburg, MD Points: 314	Post Options Post Reply Quote StewartMD Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 2012 at 11:33am
	Greg, I appreciated your feedback and insight. Obviously you are well versed with these engines. I should be ok doing measurements and checking things. I will report back with my findings and hopefully you can comment as to where I should head. I am lacking funds at the moment otherwise I would do a full overhaul, but then again with the little use this tractor sees, it is hard to justify. I wonder if I have more than one problem because I know for sure that the connecting rod is loose at the wrist pin. There is alot of slop in it that I can feel by just reaching up from the underside and jerking it back and forth.
	8030, 8010, 220, 185, 160, D-17, WD, Unstyled WC, CA, G, 20-35, Gleaner E

scott Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: michigan Points: 2735	Post Options Post Reply Quote scott Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 2012 at 11:43am
	No chance the cinch bolt came loose at the piston pin?

StewartMD Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Dec 2009 Location: Emmitsburg, MD Points: 314	Post Options Post Reply Quote StewartMD Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 2012 at 1:08pm
	Scott, I guess that's a possiblity. I'm not familiar with what that is. I need to study the service manual a little better.
	8030, 8010, 220, 185, 160, D-17, WD, Unstyled WC, CA, G, 20-35, Gleaner E

JeffMOnt Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ottawa, Ont Points: 129	Post Options Post Reply Quote JeffMOnt Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 2012 at 1:28pm
	Cinch bolt is the bolt that clamps the rod to the wrist pin.

StewartMD Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Dec 2009 Location: Emmitsburg, MD Points: 314	Post Options Post Reply Quote StewartMD Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 2012 at 2:43pm
	Thanks Jeff. I didn't know that was what it was called. I will look for that.
	8030, 8010, 220, 185, 160, D-17, WD, Unstyled WC, CA, G, 20-35, Gleaner E