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BlazerBuddy88 
Bronze Level
Joined: 07 Feb 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
Points: 28
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 Topic: Allis C brass main bearing washer
Posted: 10 Feb 2015 at 4:24pm |
So in the proccess of tearing into the heart of my C I noticed that somsomeone had it apart already and had put M&W pistons in it and there were these brass washers under the main bearing caps. has anyone seen these before, are they factory and do they need to go back in when the motor goes back together. 
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hammer down and hope she holds
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 5106
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Posted: 10 Feb 2015 at 5:26pm |
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They are shims. These a factory equipment to get the correct bearing "crush". The procedure is explained in the service manual.
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wbecker
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Joined: 29 Oct 2009
Location: STL
Points: 837
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Posted: 10 Feb 2015 at 5:34pm |
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The best thing to do is have your rods machined by an engine machine shop, without the shims, then you can forget about them. The rods should be machined at overhaul any way.
Back then the thinking was if you had a loose rod you could take out a shim and file a tiny bit off the crush edge of the bearing, and drive on.
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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BlazerBuddy88
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Posted: 10 Feb 2015 at 7:21pm |
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Well the brass washers werent between the connecting rods only the mains. So the plan is to have the crank resurfaced and plastic guage the main bearings and the connecting rods and going from there with what bearing tolerance I need. I was curious if this was a homemade fix or factory.
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hammer down and hope she holds
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Chalmersbob
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Pennsylvania
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Posted: 10 Feb 2015 at 9:01pm |
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They were used at both locations, the main bearings and the rod bearings for the reason described. There were usually 4 on each side of the caps. LOL Bob
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4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 10 Feb 2015 at 9:17pm |
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If somebody removed the shims to take up for wear, and you bolt up a new bearing and torque it down, you will most likely have scrapped your new bearing.
The only way to know what needs to be in there is to bolt the cap on with things all cleaned up and measure the bore at 12 o'clock, 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock. All measurements have to be the same (with in a couple ten thousands of an inch) and the proper size for the bearing to ever hope to be round enough to fit the fresh crank.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 10 Feb 2015 at 9:36pm
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BlazerBuddy88
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Posted: 10 Feb 2015 at 11:18pm |
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Thanks thanks for the input Bob and CT, I was hoping not to have the block and bearings to be sent out to be machined and honned but sometimes gotta bite the bullet. Can you recommend any good machine shops in the northeast (lehigh valley) are of pa to have the work done at?
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hammer down and hope she holds
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