D17 Series IV Brakes

i have the same thing, would like to see the answer to your question.

Pretty easy to understand after you do four of them......

Or did Allis kinda draw it out of order, does that beveled iron, bolt over the entire brake assemble, and the Disc, contact the inner surface of that piece?

Orange Blood wrote: Thanks DanD, that's what I was looking at to come up with my questions.  :-) The friction surface I am talking about is not what I think you are suggesting.  With this setup there are what I think are two contact points. 1. the round beveled surface that you are speaking of, that bolts to the inside of the rear housing, the drum friction surface contacts this, outboard of the balls, is a friction disc, that must contact something.  This something would have to be inside the final drive housing???  Am I right? Eldon, I bet you took some pictures when you had your apart, I know it. :-)

When you remove the rear axle housing from the tractor, you'll be able to reach in and pull the plate & drum unit off the axle shaft.  Looking at the parts list, parts 3 and 5, the plate and drum will be together in one unit, held together by the two springs, #2 in the diagram.  Trapped inside will be the four steel balls that ride in the sloped ramps that are cast into the drum and disc.  When you step on the brakes, you'll see that the band, part #7, clamps down on the drum.  Notice that the drum is not splined to the axle. However, it is attached to the disc by those two really tough little springs and the steel balls are inside ready to go into action.  The disc portion is splined to the axle, but free to slide back and forth.  Now, the band is trying to slow the drum portion, but not the disc.  This results in the disc and drum turning slightly with respect to each other.  Now, because of the steel balls inside riding on the sloped ramps, the drum and disc are forced apart from each other.  The brake lining on the back side of the drum (not visible in the picture) is forced against the friction surface part #8 in the diagram.  This is outboard of the brake unit.  It will still be in the axle housing when you remove the disc and drum unit.  The lining on the disc portion is forced against the friction surface on the outboard side of the differential bearing carrier.   This surface will still be on the tractor when you remove the axle unit.  Remember that this movement is not much.  There's only a few thousands clearance between the brake linings and the friction surfaces when the brakes aren't applied.  You don't want it too big or the springs (#2) stretch too much and break.  They usually are broken when the brakes are bad anyway.  And you'll want to put new ones on anyhow.  This is why it's important to have the correct shims behind #8 so that the clearances are within limits.  I don't recall the exact measurements, but will be in your shop manual.
CLear as mud?  When you have it apart, it's pretty easy.   I've done brakes on a Series III D17 and a 185 and both are still working well today yet.


Edited by DanD - 26 Aug 2012 at 12:19am