Clutch, Probably?

1955 WD45. Clutch freeplay is 1" (specs state between 1/2-1"). Not noisy. Problem is, and this was also happening before I parked it in the barn years ago prior to recently finishing fixing it to return to work - When the tractor is in gear, and the engine clutch pedal is pushed down, the tractor acts like the brakes are on. When I place transmission into neutral, the tractor rolls freely. Tractor runs and drives very well, handles work just fine. This is the only issue. Brakes are new and properly adjusted, working well. One other thing, sometimes when letting off the clutch, it's jerky, not smooth. Other times perfectly fine. Seems mostly when lower RPM's that it's fine. Also, when idling and I place into neutral, when I let the foot clutch out again the governor momentarily allows RPM's to shoot up to levels around 1/2 throttle speed, as though it hit an ant hill while mowing.
Yes, ignorance on display once again.
Thanks in advance,
- Tim
P.S. - Most of the time when releasing the clutch and it's "jerky," is when it's in reverse.

Edited by TimCNY - 12 Jul 2019 at 9:57am

the other issue I have seen is the clutch pedal shaft and brake shaft is the same.  when the clutch pivot gets sticky or bound up it will apply the brake.

Thank you very much, Doc, lift arms are generally up most of the time because I put a 3-point conversion on it years ago. I had no idea that was going on.

im4racin, Chris - thanks but that all works freely, no binding or sticking going on. But I'll definitely keep that in mind as well.

Edited by TimCNY - 12 Jul 2019 at 10:51am

oops... Thank you again, Doc. Didn't work with it today but when I get up there again I'll make the proper adjustments.

lol. I have had that cover off, surprisingly no, never saw anything in there. Now the BRAKES, on the other hand, I could've made a sci-fi movie!!!

100% fixed, thanks once again, DrAllis!
Chris, I tried to follow the instructions in the manuals the best I could. Which, of course, I don't have in front of me at this late hour lol! Sorry. I'll check tomorrow (oops it is tomorrow), but as I recall I called Bill at Sandy Lake because well naturally I was confused, and he had a pretty neat shortcut. What I remember he said (now keep in mind this is because I was working alone, two people and the modification is obvious) get a long stick, better still an axe handle or the like, stand behind the tractor and whack it in the -- ok he didn't say that lol. But seriously, stand behind the tractor, turn the equalizing screw (in the back of the housing) in tight, with the axe handle or whatever reach forward and push/depress the brake pedal two inches. But what I did was measure brake pedal travel two inches and used a clamp on the frame rail and behind each pedal in turn pedal to hold it there. Then turned down the adjusting nut (the one on top for the bolt in the toggle of the brake shoe) until I felt a bit of drag, then the equalizing screw (in the rear housing). But honestly, a quick call to Bill and you won't be at the mercy of my addled brain, lol! It only took a few minutes for him to explain it and I understood. I just wish I also remembered exactly the way he described, because it worked perfectly. No drag, no front shoe contacting the drum first, nothing wrong at all, and on the first try. No fiddling around trying to finesse it. Both brakes the same travel before contacting the drum. So call him Monday lol!

Yes, very glad the Doctor is "In." I just dread getting the bill lol!
And definitely give Bill a call, I don't know if I told you exactly the right way he told me.
- Tim