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More genny questions. |
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826 |
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Put the d19 in the garage today. Took the wires off of the generator and ran a hot wire to the A terminal with the belt off and it motored ok. Brushes were a little stuck, so I took it off and cleaned up the brushes and got the springs working good again and then put it back together. Put the generator back on and motored again with the A terminal and it spun around much better. Took off the regulator and looked things over and made sure contacts were clean and not fused which they weren't. Clean up all the outside terminals to make sure the wire terminals all got good contact, and put the wires all back on. Double checked the wiring to my wiring diagram and everything it hooked up properly and it is. So now, I am supposed to flash the generator and the regulator. Which terminals am I suppose to flash before I start it back up and see if everything is working? Thanks for all the help.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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If it ran the right direction when motored and with no field connection, its flashed.
You need the field connected for flashing to be of benefit. Gerald J. |
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Dnoym N. S. Can. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Oct 2009 Points: 544 |
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Most old generator regulators have three terminals; battery,
field, and armature. Momentarily jumping the battery to the field terminal with the engine running will polarize the field. If the regulator terminals are easily accessible and you can identify them this is the easiest place to do it as the terminals are in close proximity to each other. For a negative ground system this is the same as jumping the positive battery terminal to the field terminal. Not sure if your tractor is negative or positive ground. To polarize the generator, simply make a short jumper wire to short between the battery (b or bat) and generator (g or gen) lugs on the cutout relay or voltage regulator. Only a split-second or a spark is required, so simply tap your jumper wire onto the lugs and pull them right back off. HTH B:-) |
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Coke-in-MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41980 |
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http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/electrical/58dr5210/index.html
Should give you all the info you need on gen and regulator.
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Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826 |
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Thanks everyone. I did find a couple previous posts and did exactly as all of you have mentioned. I think it is working. My ammeter guage is shot, so I put a voltmeter on the battery. With the key off, 12.61 volts. With the tractor started and running, voltage was slowly climbing up to 12.99 volts. there are no lights on this tractor, so I couldn't put them on to put a draw on the battery to see if the charging system would respond to a load, but before I monkeyed with everything, whatever the battery voltage was, it would not increase and would slowly decrease with the tractor running and the only draw was the ignition system. So I think all is good, and now on to the power steering and brakes. I need to setup a pressure guage on the power steering pump and see what I am putting out and see if I can pull some shims out of the bypass, and get more pressure out of it.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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12.99 isn't going to cut it. With a fully charged battery you should have around 13.8 to 14.5 volts. Now if the battery was very run-down, the generator may not have had enough capacity to bring the voltage up to near 14 volts. Anything under 13.8 volts will not fully charge the battery. Actually you need something closer to 14.5 volts to fully charge a battery on a cold winter day. I noticed in the 180 service manual that the regulator is temperature compensated. Your older regulator probably is not.
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Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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12.99 is a good start and the voltage will continue to rise if its being charged. If the meter is accurate, it should rise to right about 14.2 and level off and by then the battery will be warmed by charging and by the heat from the nearby engine. The voltage will rise slowly if the generator is not very big its sure not going to rise as fast as it might with a 60 amp alternator if the generator is only 20 amps. I like an ammeter to show current truly going into the battery and then tapering to zero as the full charge condition is reached.
Gerald J. |
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826 |
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I only had it running for a minute or so, and it was continually rising. The battery that I have in the tractor I charged up a week or two ago, but with the charging system not working, and test driving the tractor around, it was slowly getting depleted, but it was strong enough to turn it over and start it and drive it into the garage this morning.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Put a battery charger on the battery and start the tractor after the battery is fully charged. You should be back up above 13.8 volts within minutes. A good ammeter would help determine just how must the generator is putting out, of course.
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