Looking at 7060

We are looking at a 78 7060, decent shape, 4000 hrs. I have a few questions. It has a powershift transmission and it seems the clutch pedal has a slight rattle noise when you press it down slightly, but not all the way to the floor when the brake comes on. The position in the clutch pedal where it rattles is right after when the tractor starts to coast and right before it auto brakes. It doesn't sound like grinding but more of a chatter. Is this typical of a powershift? Also it seems as though the clutch pedal presses easily, I have never driven a powershift before though and the only thing I can compare it to is our 200 clutch, which presses hard. There's a few hydraulic leaks from the back end, can't tell where they are coming from without cleaning it up good and taking a look. Also, a very small engine oil leak seems to be coming from the main seal?   Assume these leaks are somewhat normal for a 34 year old tractor. Anything else we should know about 7060s? Thanks for your input.

One of our 7060s has that rattle too, normally it is only present at idle RPMs, if you bump up the RPMs just a couple hundred does it go away?  If so, run her hard, and don't worry about it as MACK said.

Don't think you'll be able to check the AC at all unless outside temp is at least near 70 or above.

I would agree w what orange blood said , our 7040 did the same thing .

I sure  wouldnt be scared of that 7060 , cheap hp for low dollars

 ya , i know .....the cab sucks , but it is quiet ... 

I tend to think that if the A/C were working properly, then it should cool even at those temps, but I am pretty sure the 7060s we have, all have low pressure cut outs on them, can't be positive, but when ours leaks down the compressor won't engage.  Anyway, the heater valves in the cab, are not very good at shutting off coolant after all these years, so what typically happens, is the heater kills everything the A/C is trying to accomplish.   So it is a toss up, worst case as Ed pointed out, you probably just need a charge, and find the leak, best case, you need a vice grip to pinch off the coolant hose, or install a new valve in the top of the cab. 

A Ball valve installed in the right spot would be the ticket, the vice grip is really a temp diagnostic aid, be careful not to pinch too tight, the hose could be damaged.  I don't know the numbers, but 134a should cool, I think 35+ degrees below ambient temp at the condenser, so a couple of things can affect this, clogged or dirty condenser, low air flow, heat drawn in from another source, i.e shrouding missing, the other thing I have really noticed with 134 is a clean system, I am a firm believer in a quality system flush of all parts, when I put in new system components, I flush everything except the compressor and the dryer, of course those are typically what I am replacing, but my chevy truck, a '95, which was early in the 134a era, will cool to 40ish degrees on most 80+ days, and down to 55-60 on most 95-100 degree days.

dnel45 wrote: We just put a brand new fan motor in the cab so we should have plenty of air movement.  All the lines were cleaned out when we put the new compressor on.  The fan motors on the condensor on the back of the cab were not replaced and sound weak to me, we talked about replacing them, but haven't done it yet.  I might try the A/C this weekend with the vise grip diagnotic and see what happens.  I bet that is it.  Our M2 has a valve that we shut off in the summer too, not sure why I didn't think about that before.

A 7060 is a very good tractor, lots of power, 2 ptos, at 4000 it should have lots of life left. Charge the air with some off the shelf stuff, good to go, Trev.