CA hand clutch brake drum rebuild

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   Hello,

I'm preparing to rework the right axle of a CA.  I have parts ordered from Sandy Lake and Chris/CT.  I ordered a left side brake drum to verify the "original" diameter as a reference to rebuilding the left side drum.  I believe the diameter spec. is 5.990".

For those of you that have installed (or had a Machine shop do it) a sleeve over the right side drum, do you know what material (steel or cast iron) was used to create the sleeve?   My drum diameter is 5.700.  After I turn the drum to get 80 -100%, "clean-up", I will be installing a sleeve with ≈.160" wall thickness.  I would like the sleeve to be cast iron (like the original drum) but making it from steel pipe or bar will be a whole lot easier and I won't have concern about the sleeve "splitting".  Comments from those who have rebuilt their CA brake drum will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim in Wisconsin.

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timo2le Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 May 2010 Location: SW Wisconsin Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote timo2le Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: CA hand clutch brake drum rebuild Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 5:27am
	Hello, I'm preparing to rework the right axle of a CA. I have parts ordered from Sandy Lake and Chris/CT. I ordered a left side brake drum to verify the "original" diameter as a reference to rebuilding the left side drum. I believe the diameter spec. is 5.990". For those of you that have installed (or had a Machine shop do it) a sleeve over the right side drum, do you know what material (steel or cast iron) was used to create the sleeve? My drum diameter is 5.700. After I turn the drum to get 80 -100%, "clean-up", I will be installing a sleeve with ≈.160" wall thickness. I would like the sleeve to be cast iron (like the original drum) but making it from steel pipe or bar will be a whole lot easier and I won't have concern about the sleeve "splitting". Comments from those who have rebuilt their CA brake drum will be appreciated. Thanks, Tim in Wisconsin.

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B26240 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3865	Post Options Post Reply Quote B26240 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 7:05am
	How do you plan on keeping the sleeve tight on the drum? When the brakes are applied the sleeve will get hot and expand, you must be planning on a real tight fit I have never heard of this done but am curious.

GregLawlerMinn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lawler, Mn Points: 1226	Post Options Post Reply Quote GregLawlerMinn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 7:26pm
	Been there- done that. My machinist mage a sleeve from pipe; it needed to be heated like a ring gear to slip on. When on, he spot welded it in a few spots "just to be sure". Worked great.
	What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC

Chris/CT Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939	Post Options Post Reply Quote Chris/CT Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 7:47pm
	Tim, Your parts were shipped this morning, you should see on Monday. I agree with Greg on remedie for the sleeve install. Some have suggested to grind a slight amount of the 3 stand that compress the springs, I'm sure you have seen this suggestion on previous posts.

Chalmersbob Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 2122	Post Options Post Reply Quote Chalmersbob Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 9:21pm
	Can't ypu just screw a band of steel on top of the drum? Just drill a hole and countersink a flat head machine screw. Either tap the drum or put a nut on the inside. Bob

timo2le Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 May 2010 Location: SW Wisconsin Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote timo2le Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jun 2012 at 5:07am
	Thanks Greg & Chris. The "ring gear" is a great example of a shrink fit with good resistance to slipping. I would have liked ductile iron for the wear characteristics, but I will be starting with 6" SCH 160 steel pipe also. A couple "safety" welds will be icing on the cake! Bob, I had also pictured rolling a ring, and attaching with countersunk screws. I think that would work OK since this CA isn't going to the Daytona 500 but since I'm surrounded by a bunch of good machinists I'll have the parts machined/shrink fit. I brought in my clutch disks this morning so we can face them on a rotary (Blanchard) grinder. It's gonna feel so good to have brakes that can pivot the tractor, and clutch that climb a hill!! Have a good weekend! Tim

DennisA (IL) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ridott IL. Points: 2064	Post Options Post Reply Quote DennisA (IL) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jun 2012 at 10:39am
	I had mine spray welded then turned down to size. That seemed pretty strait, simple, and forward.
	Thanks & God Bless Dennis