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816 B just died need help!

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MarcDes View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Location: North Ontario
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MarcDes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 816 B just died need help!
    Posted: 04 Dec 2011 at 4:36pm
Hi , I have a 816B backhoe with Perkins Diesel Engine 4.248 , Was doing some snow removal the other day and it just stopped , I thought it had run out of fuel. I topped uo the 3/4 full fuel tank to full and tried starting it , It turned over but no smoke coming out the exhaust . I ended up frying the starter , took it out got it rebuilt reinstalled it . Now I tried starting it again today , seems like no compression ,even if I use starter fluid not even a sputter . Not sure what to check for next . I know i have fuel to the injection pump.
Any help would be appreciated .
Marc
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Coke-in-MN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2011 at 5:27pm
When my 715B did that it was warm out and could get it to fire some on either , found it was the fuel pump on engine that boosts pressure to injector pump. You won't get smoke unless there is diesel to injectors. 
 Filters this time of year when cold have a tendency to collect water and freeze up.
Would try fuel first and everything on that side , then valve cover and see whats going on under there .
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Dave A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2011 at 8:10pm
check the stop cable linkage. I'm with Coke also on the fuel pump make sure the prime lever didn't get pushed down
Play the game for more than you can afford to lose... only then will you learn the game.
Winston Churchill
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MarcDes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MarcDes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 5:38pm
Well , I got it started today , The shut off lever seemed to be slipping a bit , disconnected the cable , manually ensured shut off in correct position . primed the pump again , noticed that I was getting fuel at the injectors . Used some quick start and it started up .
Thanks to everyone who helped out.

Marc
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Coke-in-MN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 6:20pm
That little lever can cause all kinds of problems , it's one of the things we forget about in being out of adjustment or slipping.
 Glad it was one of those oops (hit self in forhead) easy fixes.
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote edcookee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2013 at 9:07pm
Hi:
I managed to get the starter off my 816B backhoe for repair, and now I'm trying to figure out how to get it reinstalled. Someone had worked on it before, so i'm not sure which nuts were on the studs and how many?  One stud was broken. I have a manual which implies that the engine must be removed.
Your time is appreciated,
Thanks,
Ed
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Eric B View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2013 at 12:40am
The small stud marked S gets the power from the starter button (ign. key in "on" position), this activates the solenoid and puts the power to the starter motor. The fat cable from the harness goes on the big stud on the starter solenoid along with the accessory connector (skinnier wire but still a big eyelet connector). If there's another fat cable hanging around, it may be for the grounding stud on the end of the starter motor (not all have this), to be sure, you follow the cable to make sure it connects to the frame. I'd suggest you try the starter before you install it (on the floor with booster cables and activate the S stud with a screw driver). If you're not sure which wire on the machine goes to S, get a second person to push the starter button with the ign key on while you use a tester light to see which wire has power coming to it. Hope this helps.  
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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edcookee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote edcookee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2013 at 9:36am
Thanks Eric;
That helps, but I need to bolt the starter to the bell housing. The way the starter is configured, it looks like I may be able to bolt to two of the studs but bolting to the stud
between the starter and the frame looks impossible. The starter weighs 50 lbs and there is little room to manuver in there. I tried once and failed. is there a secret to it or is it just me. I can put the starter on the studs, but have trouble with the nuts.
Thanks,
Ed
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Eric B View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2013 at 11:23pm
Ed ... how're you making out getting your starter back in? It's a tight fit alright but it can be done....if you have a Snap on Dealer or Mac Tools guy in your area they'd probably love to show you a tool to use....or give some free advice....you certainly wonder why the design is so tight ??
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 6:59am
Certain Cummins applications were the same years ago, actually knew the access sucked so they installed 12 point space saver head bolts to accommodate replacement of parts.

Have seen more than one occasion where pulling the engine looked easier than pulling the starter. My 7G comes to mind.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 4:38pm
Another starter story, but not heavy equipment
 
We have a 1981 Alfa Romeo Alfetta.  Because the bell housing is alloy the starter has an extra mount on the outboard end.  It looks like you have to remove an engine mount to get the starter out.
 
BUT - the extra mount is a cap over the bolts that hold the starter together.  If you release the nuts on these, the cap swings just enough to allow the starter to come out.
 
This car is the only one I've ever met that looks like some thought was given to working on it after the factory.  There seems to always be just enough room without dismantling half the car, though you may have to read the workshop manual to find out how to get it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonBC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 11:20pm
 Ian, there are some vehicles where no thought was given to repairs. We use to have a 86 S15 GMC Jimmy with the 2.8 V6. You could remove the starter from the engine without too much trouble but you either had to remove a frame cross member or the right side exhaust manifold to get it out of the body of the vehicle. To remove the engine on the standard transmission model you had to remove the bolts that held the body to the frame so that you could raise the body about 5" to allow you to raise the engine enough so that the oil pan would clear the front differential to allow you to pull the engine forward enough to get the transmission input shaft free of the clutch. I guess the plan was to scrap them once the starter wore out.
Jack of all trades, master of none
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2013 at 6:59am
Don,
 
To repeat
 
This is the only car I've run into (out of quite a few) that looks like they thought about the bloke who works on it after the factory.
 
It is front engine with a rear transaxle setup including clutch.  With a De Dion rear suspension triangle under it.  Which looks like a major undertaking to get at the clutch.  And which turns into really easy when you read the manual.
 
Our FA 10 dozer isn't too bad either - except for the alternator. 
 
To get that out you take out the radiator.  Less of a pain than it sounds, as it is an automotive style one.  So front grille out of the way (with our modified one pull 2 pins and swing), 4 bolts and 2 hoses (after you drop the engine sump guard) and you have it in your hands.  Takes about 20 minutes.
 
Or there is an alternate mount at the top of the engine with ready access to the alternator - but you have to remove the radiator and the fan to change the belt!  There was a mod at around dozer #600 on that one!
 
And check out the changing of a starter motor on recent Toyota V8 Landcruisers!
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