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Old tractor 
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Joined: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Belleville
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 Topic: D14
Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 6:45pm |
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I have a D14 that has very bad misfire. I have replaced coil, point and cond, cap wires and rotor. I also replaced the bushing in the distributer shaft. Has solid 12v to coil. When running it keeps cutting out. With timing light on when you hear it cut out the light stops. Tried it clamped on the coil wire. Same cutout there. It has been converted to 12v neg ground. Coil is hooked neg to points. It has an alternator. I disconnected it thinking a diode might be bad giving it some AC.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 53634
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Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 6:54pm |
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Have you checked the ignition switch? Coil picks up hot there, so wire a light bulb in the line, and see if it goes out , when the problem occurs...
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Old tractor
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Joined: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Belleville
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Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 6:56pm |
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I bypassed the ignition switch. All new wiring also.
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DiyDave
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Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 8:01pm |
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Have you tried wiggling the dist drive shaft, to see if the bushings are worn out?
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Old tractor
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Location: Belleville
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Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 8:39pm |
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Yes replaced the bushing. Had about .012 play. It is like the points are not making contact all the time. have put 2 new points and cond.
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ctbowles 58
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Joined: 12 Aug 2016
Location: CLARKSVILLE MO.
Points: 129
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Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 9:07pm |
Do you have the wires crossed ?
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Old tractor
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Location: Belleville
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Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 9:22pm |
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No. It runs ok for a few seconds at a time. I clamped the timing light on the coil wire instead of #1. It flashes obviously faster but cuts out when the motor cuts. I had it running perfect last week for about 20 minutes. Moved it around the yard. Was driving and started missing again. There is a bit of end play in the shaft that drives the distributer. It might effect the timing but not cause the cutting out.
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Don(MO)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bates City MO.
Points: 6862
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Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 9:26pm |
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Time to get the old dwell meter out of the old tool box sitting in the back of the shop, if you don't have one then check some older shops they will still have one, I use mine all the time for tune-ups. A good set of points set right will hold 31* to 34*deg on the 4 and 6clys. Or just change the condenser and points out will a good brand from some good parts store like NAPA. Don't forget to lube the breaker arm.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Old tractor
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Joined: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Belleville
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Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 10:12pm |
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I will check the dwell again. Think it was about 38. Checked a friends allis combine. It was at 36. I bought the points from a local distributer from allpartsstore in the USA. You said lube the breaker arm. Didn't do that. Will do that tomorrow. That could be if the points are tight enough to not close quick enough when running.
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ctbowles 58
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Joined: 12 Aug 2016
Location: CLARKSVILLE MO.
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Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 10:22pm |
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What is the gap in your points ?
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015
Location: United States
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 2:26am |
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Did you use those wires that you cut to length and put your own ends on? Even after being an electronics tech for 5 years in the distant past and many more years as a controls engineer I managed to mess up one of those crimps everything tested good but once it warmed up one of them failed. I finally ordered a set of wires from stiners that where premade to lenght and the skip went away. I am sure there is a proper crimp tool to use for spark plug wires but I don't own it.
I had a heck of a time finding premade wires for it but they are out there.
Edited by Dan73 - 19 Sep 2016 at 2:28am
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Burgie
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Scottsburg, IN
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 4:44am |
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Check the ground on the coil..
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"Burgie"
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bradley6874
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Joined: 05 Sep 2010
Location: salisbury md
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 5:57am |
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What type plug wires did you use solid or carbon they have to be solid and 2nd hook your test light to the negative side of the coil when it acts up turn it over if the light flashing points are probably ok
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 5:58am |
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I'm thinking a bad 'ballast' resistor, if it has one or else a bad coil.
You eliminated the ignition switch,have all new wires,points, condensor ,so what's left is the resistor and coil.
Quick check...put ammeter in series and see how much current is being drawn, Should be around 4 amps. Just install ammeter and 'quick key' to get engine to turn just enough to get points closed. It should say 4 amps 'forever'...if it's highr then too much power is being drawn and something overheats. Cheap ballast resistors will 'open up' a bit then reheal,but fail eventually. Coil can do the same thing but take longer to fail.
A 'real' 12V coil does NOT need a ballast resistor but a 6 volt one does! Actually 2x when used on 12v tractor.
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Old tractor
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 6:05am |
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The gap is .020. The plug wires were a set for the tractor. It had carbon wires on it. I tried the coil with the mount on another motor. Works fine there.
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Old tractor
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 6:49am |
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It has a resistor coil. Only other motor I have with points and coil is an IH cub cadet. Switched the coils. Cub ran good, same issue with the allis. This is not a misfire. It is like the key is being turned off for a second or so. Seems to have spark for 2 or 3 seconds then off for 1 or 2. Don(mo) said in the last line "don't forget to lube the breaker arm". Didn't do that. I will try that this morning. Maybe the points are tight enough that they don't always close fast enough.
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Old tractor
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 11:54am |
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Found the contacts on the new points bad. Put ohm meter on them. Sometimes had no resistance, sometimes as high as 8 ohms. Put the old points back in. Runs good now. The only major change since I replaced the points was the bushing in the distributer. After I replaced the bushing it ran good for about 4 or 5 ten minute runs. The new set of points looked like they aligned ok but just not making good contact. If I continue to have issues keeping points I will convert it to electronic. Conversion kit here in Canada is $160. Didn't want to spend that much until I was sure I could get it working. Thanks for all of the replies.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 5:49pm |
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I've heard of lotsa problems with new chinese points, Pertronix IS the way to go...
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson Cnty,GA
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 6:52pm |
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Dave is correct - go with Petronix, money well spent.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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cottonpatch
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Joined: 17 Nov 2010
Location: VIRGINIA
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 10:33pm |
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Blue streak by standard auto or Echlin points, never had a problem with either.
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'52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040
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Don(MO)
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Location: Bates City MO.
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Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 10:49pm |
 cottonpatch wrote:
Blue streak by standard auto or Echlin points, never had a problem with either. |
X2!!!!! Leave the junk from the farm stores Tractor Supply and the cheap Auto Parts stores alone!!!!!
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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bigredisb
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Joined: 16 Aug 2016
Location: Racine WI
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Posted: 20 Sep 2016 at 7:42am |
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I wish we could get a law that prevented classic tractor parts from being manufactured in places like China. I could care less how much more it costs.
Edited by bigredisb - 20 Sep 2016 at 7:43am
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1961 Allis-Chalmers D15
1949 Farmall Super A
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 20 Sep 2016 at 7:51am |
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Actually it's not WHERE the stuff is made but HOW it is. I had a 327 on and engine hoist for 2 years and it NEVER drop an 1/8th of an inch. Yup 'made in China' cylinder...so some good stuff does come outta there !
After hearing all the horror stories here,about Pertronix units 'blowing magic smoke' makes me very leary about getting one, let alone 4...
Buy a few sets of GOOD points, put one set in tractor, rest on shelf.....
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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cottonpatch
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Joined: 17 Nov 2010
Location: VIRGINIA
Points: 285
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Posted: 20 Sep 2016 at 9:29am |
jaybmiller wrote:
Actually it's not WHERE the stuff is made but HOW it is. I had a 327 on and engine hoist for 2 years and it NEVER drop an 1/8th of an inch. Yup 'made in China' cylinder...so some good stuff does come outta there !
After hearing all the horror stories here,about Pertronix units 'blowing magic smoke' makes me very leary about getting one, let alone 4...
Buy a few sets of GOOD points, put one set in tractor, rest on shelf.....
Jay
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Agreed, I'll stick with points!
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'52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040
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jaybmiller
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Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 20 Sep 2016 at 3:47pm |
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Be SURE to write down somewhere the location of the other sets of points you buy !!! Or store in the tool box in the drawer of all the 'goodies'.
if you don't , they'll go a walkin....... maybe meet up with my 7/16 ,deep, 3/8 drive 6 point socket....sigh.... it HAS to be 'somewhere' in the garage....
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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