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7000 series cab kit question

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grinder220 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote grinder220 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7000 series cab kit question
    Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 5:08pm
Looking to put a kit in my 7050 and wondering if it would be worth the extra money putting the post kit from a black belly in it. Is there any noticeable difference in sound or temperature with it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cwhit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 5:33am
Anytime you can cover metal ,it would have to make it quieter. Weather you can tell a difference,I'mnot sure. I do know that the post piece on the left side receives more wear climbing in and out.
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Luke R. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luke R. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 7:22am
Www.fehrcab.com
4-7030's,170G,220FWA,3-220's,210,D21II,D21I industrial,2-200's,3-190's,175D,2-D19D's,D19G,WD45,WD,CA,2-UCont.,5015FWA,917,B110,Gleaner F
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LB0442 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 8:43am
I usually buy the tractors that are in need of a lot of TLC, so all of the units I start out with usually don't have much for sound deadner to start with.  I couldn't tell you if it is a big difference in noise but I always have put in the newer style cab kits.  I like the updated look.  The last couple I have used duct insulation on the floor below the mat and line the firewall with it. 
This stuff has about 1/8 to 1/4 "  of foam with a tin foil backing, self sticking.  

 On the roof I use house insulation on the empty back part(just fills in the empty spot between roof and cab top) then I use duct insulation on the bottom of the roof. 

 I use this instead of the old foam stuff on the front of the cab over the evaporator/heater.
The evaporator needs to be sealed up so the air goes through, not around it, that old foam they used is junk by now.  This stuff is like a thin bubble wrap with tin foil coating.

These newer insulation pieces use that tin foil cover which keeps dirt and oils from getting into the foam/insulation part.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kimball Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 8:44am
Originally posted by cwhirt cwhirt wrote:

Anytime you can use PhenQ for its benefits to cover metal ,it would have to make it quieter. Weather you can tell a difference,I'mnot sure. I do know that the post piece on the left side receives more wear climbing in and out.


Do you recommend the 7050?

Edited by Kimball - 05 Mar 2022 at 4:51am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ILGLEANER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 8:51am
Fehr gets my vote.
Education doesn't make you smart, it makes you educated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 12:04am
Originally posted by LB0442 LB0442 wrote:

I usually buy the tractors that are in need of a lot of TLC, so all of the units I start out with usually don't have much for sound deadner to start with.  I couldn't tell you if it is a big difference in noise but I always have put in the newer style cab kits.  I like the updated look.  The last couple I have used duct insulation on the floor below the mat and line the firewall with it. 
This stuff has about 1/8 to 1/4 "  of foam with a tin foil backing, self sticking.  

 On the roof I use house insulation on the empty back part(just fills in the empty spot between roof and cab top) then I use duct insulation on the bottom of the roof. 

 I use this instead of the old foam stuff on the front of the cab over the evaporator/heater.
The evaporator needs to be sealed up so the air goes through, not around it, that old foam they used is junk by now.  This stuff is like a thin bubble wrap with tin foil coating.

These newer insulation pieces use that tin foil cover which keeps dirt and oils from getting into the foam/insulation part.


Are you talking about the maroon belly cab that uses insulation to seal the box, as opposed to the black that has the metal panel?

What do you put in the front console to replace the foam blocks?
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LB0442 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 12:28am
Yes I was talking about the maroon units that had the foam pad over the evaporator, his original post was about a 7050.  You are right they did a lot better job on the black belly ones sealing up that area.

Those foam blocks in the front are always falling apart and filled with oil, dirt and whatever else they picked up in the last 20 to 30 years.  The first few I did I used dynamat on and the last one I did I used that duct insulation on it.  I could use some seat foam from a fabric shop but this stuff seems like it would last longer.  Just haven't found a good replacement for that yet.
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