![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
Swapping out narrow front for a wide front wd45 |
Post Reply ![]() |
Author | |
Morandy ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Sep 2016 Location: Missouri Points: 9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 9:18pm |
This is my first post. Brand new to the forum. I just bought a 1950 wd wide front. I own a 1955 narrow front wd45 that i am planning on using the wide front for. I believe the wd wide front is a 3 bolt (if 3 bolt refers to the front plate connected to the cast gear housing?) I read this was a pretty easy swap but i still am still left with a few things that confused me after reading several different tutorials about it. I have already started uninstalling the wide front end from the wd. The 8 bolts in the casting came out nicely. I took the two bolts out of the cross member that holds the back plate of the wf. I loosened the left side of that crossmember to help make it easier to slide out the casting and front end from between the frame. I also removed the two bolts from where the steering shaft enters the casting. Should the gear on the steering sector slip away as the housing slips out from between the frame? Or should i have left the steering sector opening untouched and sealed and removed the sector at the ujoint? I am not having much luck slipping the casting forward, but partially because im reluctant to damage the worm gear meshed inside the case. I cannot find one youtube video on this swap which really surprised me since it sounds like a pretty common procedure. If anyone can give me some advice i would appreciate it. Thanks for your time
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
DanC911 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Jul 2014 Location: CT, USA Points: 598 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Welcome to the forum. Although I am of no help to you, there is a wealth of knowledge here and I am sure that someone will be able to help.
Good luck and post pictures.
|
|
1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
|
|
![]() |
|
j.w.freck ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: karnack texas Points: 1153 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
if you have the (corn picker pedestal)that bolts to the adj.wide front,you can bolt it to it without changing the nose steering box.the row crop pedestal will bolt right on.if you have to remove the steering box,just loosen all the bolts down the lt.and rt side frame rails all the way back to the rear axle.disconnect the u joint on the rt side of the frame,and after a lot of prying and bad words it will slide out.....
|
|
![]() |
|
Kelly (KS) ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Kansas Points: 81 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hopefully I can give you some insight. I have done a few of these swaps myself. I have never pulled the shaft out of the gearbox and don't recommend it for that reason. I would strongly suggest grinding off one side of the rivet at the u-joint, the take a drift punch and knock out the long rivet. Then unbolt the shaft support, this should give complete separation and allow the casting bolster to slide forward. I have had good luck using a small HYD. jack and push a little on each side from behind, swapping from side to side and you should be able to walk it right out. Be very careful as these parts are awkward and very heavy. Hopefully this helps, Kelly
|
|
![]() |
|
Morandy ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Sep 2016 Location: Missouri Points: 9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Kelly that should help me. When you said "unbolt the shaft support", are you referring to a bracket or something near the ujoint? I hope i can reseal and clean the casting hole where the shaft goes through. I would be sick if i damaged the steering gear somehow and ruined my "new" front end.
|
|
![]() |
|
WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4938 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The steering shaft will slide right out when you move the bolster and front end ahead.
When I change a front end, I loosen the entire left frame rail from the tractor, so I can spread it at the front. I do the left side so I don't have to work around the belt pulley. After the left side is loosened, drive something wedge shaped like a large chisel (I use an old pickle fork) between the frame and bolster to spread it. After you get the left side spread, do the same on the right side and it should slide right out. Most of these front ends haven't been out for ~60 years, so they are usually rusted together. The steering shaft/gear are the same for both the narrow and wide front ends. I hate to state the obvious, but make sure to do a good job supporting the tractor when you are doing this. I, personally, like wood blocking. Jack stands are pretty tippy when supporting something that high. |
|
![]() |
|
Kelly (KS) ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Kansas Points: 81 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes, there is a bracket (that bolts to the rail) close to the u-joint. I think you'll be fine, those gearboxes are pretty tough!!
|
|
![]() |
|
Morandy ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Sep 2016 Location: Missouri Points: 9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
thanks for your help. sounds like I can slip the casting right out and leave the steering shaft/gear mounted where they are? you are right about supporting the tractor. I have an engine hoist lifting up my front end, with blocks and jackstands for a backup. I usually work alone, so I try to be extra careful while lifting for safety sake. i will try spreading the frame a bit to break the rust free from the casting. thanks for the advice to all who have commented!!
|
|
![]() |
|
WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4938 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Once you get the bolster loose, the steering shaft should slide out easily. You might need an extra pair of hands to put it back in when you are reinstalling.
|
|
![]() |
|
Huckleberry8961 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 09 Aug 2016 Location: WNY Points: 48 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Like Kelly said that gear box is HEAVY! Had to change mine out, back in April. I used the same method WF owner did. Did take a bit of prying to free the gear box free from the frame. Extra pair of hands is helpful but after a couple tries managed to get it put in using a couple straps and a loader tractor tractor. Got some pictures around someplace I can try and share after work.
Bob |
|
![]() |
|
Morandy ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Sep 2016 Location: Missouri Points: 9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
yes, thanks, that would be great to see a few pictures!!!
|
|
![]() |
|
Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8446 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Morandy,
Welcome you have a good project. I have replace one of these on a WD wide front Swap. Stop what your doing and go buy a lotto ticket! If you got all those bolts out without breaking any off you are lucky! I was going to post some pictures but my photobucket account is being maintained ???? So yes block the tractor up with wooden cribbing if possible. I had both frame rails off to clean the tractor. Broke off most of the bolts holding the steering gear box in place too! Frame rails were rusted to the steering casting. Yours may not be if the bolts were not rusted much. I just took the steering U joint apart for removal. I think i did take out those two bolts that hold the steering rod cover/seal onto the casting when I was doing clean up. There is a cork seal in there I believe. I used a couple 2 x 4's about 8 feet long stragically placed in the wide front end to move it around. The narrow front ends move around pretty easy but are tippy. Some pictures will help too! Hey I had a first post here once too! Regards, Chris |
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
![]() |
|
Morandy ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Sep 2016 Location: Missouri Points: 9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks for the advice. I think once i get this front end changed over, im going to do a little body work, then paint both tractors. I may post pics of them tonight if i can figure this thing out. Thanks to all for the help!!!
|
|
![]() |
|
Huckleberry8961 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 09 Aug 2016 Location: WNY Points: 48 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Got the pictures on photobucket but I haven't played around enough to get them onto here. Recently new myself and been searching the help topic to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong.
Bob |
|
![]() |
|
Huckleberry8961 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 09 Aug 2016 Location: WNY Points: 48 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Might have over done it with the cribbing but it worked
![]() ![]() As Chris said if you manage to get it apart without breaking bolts you are lucky. I unfortunately wasn't. ![]() Bob |
|
![]() |
|
Morandy ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Sep 2016 Location: Missouri Points: 9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thank you for the pictures. Very nice job on the wooden block arrangement. Yes its true that i lucked out on the bolts holding the casting..... But i have not yet started disassembly of the narrow front wd45. I may be in for a big job. But hopefully not.
|
|
![]() |
|
Huckleberry8961 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 09 Aug 2016 Location: WNY Points: 48 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Using a wrench and hitting the upper end of it with a hammer might help. The bolts I seemed to have the most problem with was the ones that bolt the steering gear box to the frame. Ended up with three broken trying to use a long handled ratchet and getting in a yank.
Thanks, and couldn't think of a better way so I used what I knew from work. That configuration is how we use the cribbing to hold houses up when we redo the foundations. Best of luck, Bob |
|
![]() |
|
Morandy ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Sep 2016 Location: Missouri Points: 9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Well i finally got the swap complete on the wd45 and wd ! I know several on here said it was a two hour job..... But not for me. I struggled to pry and free the cast gear housing after 65 years... Whew! I loosened everything on the frame, oiled everything, etc. The bolts in the cast bolsters came out with ease from both tractors. I had to yank and yank with my 4wheeler and a chain around the bolster to get it free. Once i got it to move 1/4inch, it finally started moving. I think i spent a good 8 hours freeing these castings. Thank you to everone who gave me help. My new wide front works great. Gonna do some brushhogging with it later today
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
|
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |