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Bet You Can't beat this one!

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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 12:44pm
this whole deal sounds like a dealer scam. Do the work, give the part back to customer, and then bill them later, an exorbitant amount. Many large corporations just absorb these exorbitant charges because no one involved with the part is paying the bill anyway. Now we have a small scale customer who is involved with his own finances, knows that this is just plain and simple price gouging! I as a small business have repair jobs that can get expensive, but I make the customer aware of it, and never does anyone pick anything up without an invoice total on the spot. The other side of the coin is there's the dealer's side of the story. I agree with WF above, this guy needs to calmly go to the dealer and see if there's a reasonable explanation. Maybe they send them out, and of course mark up the rad shops work 2 or 3 times??
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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ac45 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 2:53pm
He shouldn't have to pay anything. The outlet is on the wrong side.
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alleyyooper View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alleyyooper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 6:39am
http://www.steinertractor.com/ACS114-radiator-pressurized?&TF=79A33C770BC.

$327.00 new

https://www.amazon.com/Allis-Chalmers-Tractor-Radiator-70228585/dp/B00D3RCUQO

New $249.00 with free shipping.

I would take printed out cost for a new radiator to the dealer and have a nice talk about his charge. If we could not come to agreement I would tell him I would return the radiator and buy a new one WAY CHEAPER and never darken his door again nor have a nice thing to say about the dealer ship ever again.

I would never allow work to be done with out a quote to start with.

If the person just refuses to pay and keeps the radiator He is libel for legal action and a collection agency harassing him for payment.

   Al
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WF owner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 7:27am
I have a feeling there is a lot more to this than we are hearing.

If a dealer routinely did something like this, word would spread quickly and he wouldn't be in business long.

Any time I have ever received a bill for repairs (of any kind), I have received an itemized bill breaking down parts, labor, shop supplies and other things used in the repair. I would really like to see that bill!

One of the things I have learned in life (and work) is there are two sides to every story. I have a feeling there is a completely different (as the late Paul Harvey would say) "and that's the rest of the story".
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victoryallis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote victoryallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 9:23am
Is it pricy? Yes, but if you didn't talk money before the job started you are responsible for the whole amount not what you feel is right. I would make sure they do eat making it fit right. When I pull a radiator I figure their goes close to a $1000 but then again that is in 6,7, and 8000 series tractors. Sorry but value of what it goes into has no correlation with the bill in regards to the dealer.

Edited by victoryallis - 20 Dec 2016 at 9:24am
8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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Hockeygoon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hockeygoon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 9:48am
I went through this a couple years ago with a John Deere dealership. I bought an old 14T baler from my 90 year old neighbor. It worked the last time he used it and parked it in the shed. I greased it up and put in new twine and it was working for the most part but 1 in 20 bales the knotter would miss one side. I know nothing about John Deere balers and asked the dealer if they had an experienced "baler man" working for them. Oh yeah, got a guy that knows them inside and out. I told them it was an old baler and probably needed the timing adjusted a bit to get everything working like it should.

The baler went in December knowing they would get to it when they got to it - low priority. Got the baler back and thought - maybe I better try this thing out and ran a couple bales through it - wouldn't tie on either side. Called them up and asked them what's the deal? It was working here (had to believe considering there was no hay in the baler. Bring it back and we'll get it right.

Hauled it back with a couple bales of hay so they could check it. About 3 weeks later I was told it was done again. Picked up (no hay again) and ran a couple bales through it - the one side that had been working would now tie again, the side that was missing one in twenty bales would not tie at all. Called them and asked WTF? I was told - hey we'll fix it in the field - the fine tuning can't be done in the shop(?). Got a bill from the dealership for $2500. I called them up and asked them if they seriously expected me to pay them for taking my working baler $500 and turning it into a nonworking $3000 baler? Yep - we want paid. I talked to the manager and asked him WTF was up with their "baler man" and why the high price on something we discussed the need to keep reasonable due to its limited value. Turns out their designated "baler man" was a shop employee who happened to own a square baler - no training what so ever, I said Hell I own a square baler that doesn't make me a specialist. Eventually I paid them $1500 and sold the baler for parts for $400. I was just glad it was cheap baler for $1500 and not a $15,000 repair on a tractor that didn't work when it came out of the shop.       
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TimNearFortWorth View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 11:52am
You are lucky HockeyGoon, at least your baler did not have a computer they could plug a laptop into.
JD hit on something by starting to increase prices some years back. Now more companies are doing it as they feel the consumer has no choice and "the John Deere boys in marketing got away with it".
Have a brother that traded in a JD 4WD that was only one year old, on a Case-IH, because JD told him they have instructions from Deere on how much they have to charge for parts/service.
Friend here had water issues in fuel per JD computer and after 2nd service call for his 130hp 4WD on his remote ranch, asked the JD service tech what other companies had equivalent filters for his tractor as he would no longer pay the JD price. Advised he was told the JD filters were made for their newer tractors under exclusive agreement for a number of years and could not be purchased anywhere but Deere.
Found out later he had found someone in the area that cut off the JD piping for inlet/outlet on his mounted filters and they fabbed in new common mounts so he can run multiple brands of name brand filters. Apparently the fella that does it has performed this retrofit on many green tractors in N. TX and OK.
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DiyDave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 6:07pm
Best thing to do is to buy a manual for an older NH baler, don't matter which one.  since all square balers of a similar time period were rip=offs of NH's design, the troubleshooting is basically all the same...Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2016 at 7:08pm
If it were me, I would have asked for the bill to be itemized out.

Two hours' labor, at $500/hr? new radiator cap for $300.00? At that point, the circumstance has more clarity.

Anyone who's in ANY business for ANY length of time past a few years will have an inherent familiarity with the economy of his OWN business environment, and realize very clearly what the cost of business operations requires. It is impingent upon successful business to be intimately aware of the most reasonable path to customer satisfaction, and when there's a clear diaspora between paths, to discuss it with the customer before proceeding down what could be an extremely undesireable path.

In the case of say... repairs to a cylinder head for a 1905 Rolls-Royce 3.5L V8... if one was still in existence, the repair bill could be $30,000... yet totally acceptable (because NO 1905 Rolls V8's are known to still exist), but if they DID, it's clear that you wouldn't be able to find a suitable replacement in a junkyard.

But if that was a 3.5L V6 from a mid '90's minivan, you'd think it foolish to spend over $100, because there's dozens in the junkyard.

The shop has just as much responsibility IMO... and I'm pretty certain a judge would see the same.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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ryanschott View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ryanschott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2016 at 10:59am
If i was running that dealership I would have had the ethics to say hey I can't fixed this for anything near a new one. And the new one will be better. As far as I'm concerned the customer should be able to sue for price gauging.
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ryanschott View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ryanschott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2016 at 11:01am
But yes always ask price first. I took a b rad to local shop they said $500. To fix and then said I'll sell a new one for $250. Doing the honest thing.
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