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Bob-Maine 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Central Maine
Points: 922
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 Topic: Then all of a sudden
Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 6:09pm |
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Well, I loaded up my '53 CA and hauled it to the Harmony Free Fair Labor Day Parade. The little town of Harmony, Maine puts on a super three day fair with a big parade on Labor day. About 3/4 of the way through the route, all of a sudden my CA began to knock and the engine labored until it quit. I thought it had seized.
I had changed the oil and filter yesterday and topped off the radiator. There was excellent oil pressure and no sign of overheating. So, along with some bystander help, I rolled it off the roadway and it sat there for a few hours. A friend towed the tractor to my truck (he took great pleasure in towing my CA with a JD H). I loaded up and hauled her home. Unloading, I hit the starter and it started right up with no knock or other unusual noise. Shut it down as it rolled down to ramps, then started it again to drive it into the pole barn, no knock.
I'm puzzled. Could it be that oil was not getting to the top end? If the knock had been from the bottom end, it would seem that it would still be there. Any thoughts?
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I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 53549
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Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 6:28pm |
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What kind of oil filter did you put on it???
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Stan R
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Joined: 03 Dec 2009
Location: MA
Points: 986
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Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 6:36pm |
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water in fuel?
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Bob-Maine
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Central Maine
Points: 922
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Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 6:47pm |
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DiyDave, It is a Baldwin T-300. I have used these before. Bob
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I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure.
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Bob-Maine
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Central Maine
Points: 922
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Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 6:49pm |
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Stan, Thanks. I will look in the sediment bowl tomorrow. Bob
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I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure.
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sparky
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Joined: 13 May 2011
Location: So. Indiana
Points: 1735
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Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 8:35pm |
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I need to follow this thread because one of my CA's did the same thing. I pushed it the shop and haven't had time to check it out yet.
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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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Allen Dilg
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: NE IL
Points: 820
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Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 9:17pm |
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Hello BOB !!! I have a "RC" that has done the same thing, and has been "PARKED", for lack of DESIRE. Bob Please post findings. Allen
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Burgie
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Scottsburg, IN
Points: 1192
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Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 6:39am |
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Wonder if carbon on valve would do that?? My D15 series ll did that along time ago and not since.
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"Burgie"
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OhKen
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Joined: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Ohio
Points: 242
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Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 7:00am |
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My B does this if I'm running full throttle and the motor gets hot . This tractor is used with a belly mower , so given the rite conditions , that can be a load . It will start knocking and eventually want to lockup . Walk away from it for half an hour and let it cool down and it fires back up and sounds fine . My cure after it wanting to do this more and more . Reduce the engine rpm's under load and reduce the engine load . Since doing this he engine has been working fine . My guess is a piston starting to seize .
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bradley6874
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Joined: 05 Sep 2010
Location: salisbury md
Points: 1349
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Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 7:07am |
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My wd did this after we put it together about the time you would get done a pull she would start knocking bad and tighten up mine wound up being a bad temp gauge and bad stat that was stuck shut and the gauge wouldn't move to show was getting hot hope that helps
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Bob-Maine
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Central Maine
Points: 922
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Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 7:52am |
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Thanks, all. There was no real load on the engine, just parading in 1st and second gear. If carbon held a valve open, wouldn't it cause it ti misfire? It was running on four, began to knock and then load up like it had a huge load on the engine, then stalled. I am going to change the temp gauge (the current one is no good but there was no sign of overheating) and again look at the oil, maybe change it again. Think I have a new oil press gauge and will try that. I wonder if some crud got loosened up and blocked an oil passage. Maybe I'll pull the oil pan and look for sludge. If only I had more time!!!! I will keep listening to all of you and let you know if I find anything. Allen Dilg, good to hear from you. Bob
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I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure.
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TedBuiskerN.IL.
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Davis, IL.
Points: 1959
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Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 9:11am |
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I had the same problem with an RC locking up. Let it set 10 minutes and away we'd go. Turned out to be build up of lime around the rear sleeve preventing it from being cooled properly. This may be caused by a weak water pump not getting the water circulating well in that area, or it may be a problem of too hard of water allowing the lime build up. It was like a sludge. Found it when the rear sleeve finally cracked and we put in some CA sleeves and pistons. The RC had the original low compression cast iron pistons, the CA kit woke the old girl right up.
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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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JimD
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mounds, OK
Points: 2112
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Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 9:19am |
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Sounds like a coil getting hot and breaking down.
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Owner of OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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Eric B
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 965
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Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 11:54am |
 TedBuiskerN.IL. wrote:
I had the same problem with an RC locking up. Let it set 10 minutes and away we'd go. Turned out to be build up of lime around the rear sleeve preventing it from being cooled properly. This may be caused by a weak water pump not getting the water circulating well in that area, or it may be a problem of too hard of water allowing the lime build up. It was like a sludge. Found it when the rear sleeve finally cracked and we put in some CA sleeves and pistons. The RC had the original low compression cast iron pistons, the CA kit woke the old girl right up. |
I bought a 1948 B this last spring. It was leaking coolant into the pan, so upon pulling the pan I found #4 sleeve broken off even with the block. Once I pulled out the sleeve I discovered the block was fully blocked with sludge around the #4 sleeve. The piston was scored and blue from heat. It would not surprise me if in the previous ownership this tractor would lock up and stall like that. It is very common to hear a bearing knock when a piston is starting to seize. Basically there was next to no cooling at the back of the block. With the head removed you can both see down into the block and flush it having the block drain plug removed (and lower rad hose out if you wish). I have flushed one 201 engine also with build up at the back cylinder just using the above procedure.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Bob-Maine
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Central Maine
Points: 922
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Posted: 12 Dec 2016 at 7:54am |
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Well, I am about an hour from buttoning her up and starting her.We are gettin a good dump of snow today so it may not be today. I found a lot of sludge in the oil pan (all cleaned) and way too much "debris" on top of the head. Looked like rust scale that had been softened up by motor oil. I cleaned everything, lapped the valves, used new valve springs as one broke as I washed it with kero. The coolant passages looked suspect so I cleaned as best as i could. I still have to clean the screen on the oil pump pickup. when the oil pan is back on, I will fill her with 1/2 new oil and 1/2 kero, a new filter. water for a coolant with a flushing additive and fire her up until she warns up, then retorque head, reset tappet clearances, drain and refill, run and drain again. Funny how a one week project turns into three months when you get to my age. I will post the outcome. Bob@allisdowneast.
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I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure.
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Eric B
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 965
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Posted: 12 Dec 2016 at 1:15pm |
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Bob, when you cleaned up the head did you put in new frost plugs there? I recently buttoned up my '48 B as described in the thread above...in less than two hours of running one day as I stood looking at the tractor I got the feeling I should pull the dipstick. Upon doing so I was shocked to see the level way up...still pure oil however. To make a long story shorter one of those (perfect looking) frost plugs up top had sprung a leak since it was last running. I pulled the plug on the pan and out came the anti-freeze as pure as from a new jug. I put all three new frost plugs in there and was amazed how corroded all the old plugs were, very pitted on the bottom side. I decided right then and there that if I remove another Allis head it's going to get new plugs put in. When you know your tractor doesn't use oil you don't think of pulling the dipstick every few hours. If I had put the tractor to hard work with all that anti-freeze in the pan the crank would have probably been ruined before discovering what was going on. At a dollar each for new plugs it is the cheapest insurance against this happening.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Allis dave
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Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 3006
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Posted: 12 Dec 2016 at 2:10pm |
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Good news Bob. Glad to hear that you've almost got it done. Funny how long these projects can take isn't it?
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11950
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Posted: 12 Dec 2016 at 2:17pm |
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It sounds to me like what Stan mentioned. Water in the fuel, leaned out a bit, when it did it knocked from the lean mix. I would do a clean up of the fuel delivery system. My B did that quite a few years ago. Turned out to be water in the fuel. (condensation)
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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