160 / Perkins

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   My 160 developed a "blown head gasket"  It was "puffing" out the exhaust side of the engine.  It still ran and was not missing.  Pulled the head and found a path near a head bolt that then trailed to the "puffing" spot.  Took the head in for re-conditioning.

Today, I was cleaning the block and found two of the cylinder liners cracked at the top. 

What is the difficulty in replacing the liners?

Number 3

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elbyCJett Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 18 Apr 2013 Location: Kentucky Points: 105	Post Options Post Reply Quote elbyCJett Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 160 / Perkins Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 3:24pm
	My 160 developed a "blown head gasket" It was "puffing" out the exhaust side of the engine. It still ran and was not missing. Pulled the head and found a path near a head bolt that then trailed to the "puffing" spot. Took the head in for re-conditioning. Today, I was cleaning the block and found two of the cylinder liners cracked at the top. What is the difficulty in replacing the liners? Number 3
	D-14, 160, 2 - CAs, 2 - Bs, 2 Gs Roto-Baler, 82S Mower, Rake,444 baler, Kentucky

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tbran Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3497	Post Options Post Reply Quote tbran Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 5:17pm
	on perkins engines with a log manifold open to the front, the back cylinder will always be the culprit as dirt cant make the turn to the first two cylinders and slams into the back of the intake manifold and enters the back cylinder. Same sleeve as a 231 MF (3-152 perkins) We just put in a set. Used sleeve puller on one, the other two we had to chisel and break out the sleeves with a small chisel. Our oldest hand has welded the sleeves and caused them to shrink - scares me. We heat the bare block bores with drop lights over night and put the sleeves in the freezer and after a very light hone job PRESS the sleeves in the lubed clean bore using the sleeve puller disc and two long all thread rods screwed into the block with a brg puller straddling the bolts and screwing the puller down pushing the disc which is on top of the sleeve, down. After the puller threads bottom out, screw the bolts on the all thread down and screw out the puller bolt to get a new lower position and seat the sleeve. Two hands will help speed the process.
	When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

farmtoybuilder Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Dresden,Ohio Points: 1457	Post Options Post Reply Quote farmtoybuilder Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 7:55am
	Most time we took block to an Good engine shop. As these dry sleeves are a bear to remove and install!
	5 different TT-10's,5 TT-18's Terra Tigers,B-10,2 B-207's,B-110,2 B-112's,HB-112,B-210,B-212,HB212,2 Scamp's & Homilite T-10. Still hunting NICE HB-112 & anything Terra Tiger & Trailers for them.

HudCo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3826	Post Options Post Reply Quote HudCo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 9:47am
	the key to dry sleaves is make sure the counter bores are very clean and round, if bore isnt round cylinder wont be . a light honing will not hurt in the counter bore to clean it up new sleave should fit partway to half in at ambiant temp , then you are readey to pack them in the dry ice . the crack in the top is caused by having to drive the sleave home, or even with a pressing mandral because it started getting tight, we remove them with a curved chiesel or weld them out with the puller mandral installed in the bottom of bore to keep stufffrom going on to the crank and other places and the deck al taped off also grounded directley to the sleave being worked on