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D grader help |
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4952 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 05 Jun 2019 at 7:11am |
Our tractor club recently acquired a very early model D grader for our pulling track mantainece. I have now gotten it running and up on all 6 tires. While switching tires around, I found that the left front driver isn’t connected. When I took off the inspection covers, I see the chain is missing to that wheel. Does anyone know the size and length of the chain? I’d rather not have to remove another one to get the size.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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CAL(KS) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3800 |
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Paul here is a link to the parts books. tandem is listed on p144 of 339. be aware early graders used different sprockets and chain pitch according to the book. i have no experience just going by what im seeing in parts book.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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Ross D. ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2013 Location: Erin, Ont. Points: 339 |
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Good morning.
CAL(KS) beat me to it. Pages 138 + shows the parts; but, does not explain the actual chain size (etc.). The chain and sprockets may have changed over the years. Note that this book is revised and reprinted in Apr. 1989. I suspect that you will have to actually get inside the unit to verify items. Any pictures? Ross. ![]() |
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4952 |
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Thanks for the link to the parts book. I have now determined that it is #100 roller chain.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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DonBC ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Courtenay, BC, Points: 939 |
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I had a 1959 D grader that had one chain loose in the cab when I got it. The master link had pulled apart. The ends of the driven sprockets seemed to have some damage so I used a magnet to check for metal filings in the chain box. I pulled out a badly beaten socket that appeared to have been rolling around in the chain box and would occasionally jamb between one of the sprockets and the chain box. Eventually one of the chains came apart. I cleaned and flushed the chain box and repaired the broken chain. The chains in this box seemed to have more slack than the chains in the other box so both chains must have stretched a little. It appeared that the chains must have stretch enough that an occasional bang indicated that a chain would jump a tooth now and then. I ordered two new chains for that side. And yes they are easily obtained #100 chain. I would advise that you replace the existing chain in that box so that both chains will have the same slack. You can use the existing chain to determine the correct number of links to order.
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Jack of all trades, master of none
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